Breezy_Pete
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Viewing Topic: Fabia 2 windows stop after 10 minutes.
Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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PM me any lookups you want doing, with reg number or VIN.
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Give me a shout about this: Window motor repair service - Entrepreneur Zone - BRISKODA
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You won't be able to physically mount 6Y1959801 from a RHD car on a RHD mk1 Fabia. Only thing you could try is to transplant the circuit board across into the 6Y2959802. Not at all sure that rotation directions will be correct if you do though, but that can be changed by rotating the motor housing 180 relative to the brush-holder (circuitboard out first to avoid damage). Pic of 6Y2959802 from mk1 Fabia above a 6Y1959801 from a T5. (Both RHD): The mounting orientation is different between mk1 Fabia and all others, so the handedness is opposite. This shot shows approx orientation when mounted on door in each:
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Hello @Gondard, no that won't fit, it's a mirror image of 6Y2959802, look at online pics of the two. You need an exact match to that part number, for it to fit and work correctly in mk1 Fabia. In addition, the bottom line of the part number label, SK240DDRS, needs to be matched for a RHD mk1.
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Sounds promising, which oil did you go with?
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EVAP purge valve, I think. Why do you ask?
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I guess it goes like this: Battery - fuse near battery - cabin fusebox - feed to voltage stabiliser at fuse position 3. The voltage stabiliser fuse, when present, is 20 Amp as shown.
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Up to May 2016 it is not used for anything, From then it is described as follows: F3 - Fuse 3 on fuse holder C -SC3- 20A - Voltage stabiliser -J532- 30a 30a tells you that it is a permanent 12V supply, and I would imagine that is from busbar/solid link, rather than a wire.
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It's 1LR for that vehicle. Fronts never seems to be on the sticker.
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Keep up with oil changes, and make sure the cooling system is in good condition. As mentioned in your other thread, which version of 1.2 HTP is it?
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6-valve 54bhp 1.2 HTP or 12-valve 64bhp 1.2 HTP? For the 12-valve: Two air hoses on the battery side of the cover to disconnect I think. Rearmost one has a fitting that you squeeze opposite sides to release, frontmost one is just pull off. Then it's just a matter of pulling upwards, quite hard. I find it best the lift the rear edge first, hooking thumbs over the metalwork just behind, then pulling up hard with fingers. Once it's off, a smear of silicone grease on the (4) rubber fittings that retain it will make it easier next time. Dunno about the 6-valve version, if it has a cover.
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Bit hard to see from your pics, but is the fan motor part still attached to the shroud? I don't think it's meant to be separable from the plastic blades, if that's what seems to have happened to yours?
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If you look at the second photo of eBay listing number 394480263963 you'll see that there are three fasteners that are accessible from front side of the fan shroud. Bit of a mission to get to them unfortunately, because it's tight to remove the fan shroud, after other fan is removed with its 'plastic tripod' bit. Beware of rusty Tx30 fasteners that will round off if tool engagement is shallow.
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If you can get the voltage regulator/brushpack off without too much grief, check brush lengths.
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Brake pedal switch and clutch switch both use that same A20 voltage rail, so if the fuse was blown, that's why they were giving bad info. Oil level/temp sensor also uses it, if your car has such a thing in the sump? It would be good to work out why that fuse failed.
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3 bar fuel system on your car, current part number of filter including pressure regulator is 6Q0 201 051H. You could change them every 20 miles if you were completely insane. Very little chance that there's anything wrong/degraded with the one you have on there, unless it has done huge mileage or been erroneously replaced with a 4-bar rated one. The other risk associated with changing is that you'll damage a seal on one of the bits of pipework. Really, unless it's the wrong rating (examine the ends, it's usually stamped somewhere), there's almost no chance whatsoever that replacement will improve anything.
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Reg number or VIN will allow me to look up the correct pressure rating for you.
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Cabin fuse 5, 7.5 Amp rated, seems to be the origin of rail A20.
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Thanks, yes, that confirms that you have "G83 Coolant temperature sender - radiator outlet" instead of radiator thermoswitch. There are three fuses that feed the radiator fan control unit, cabin fuse 16 (10 Amp) and two in the battery fuseholder, the right hand blade fuse (30 Amp) for the first speed of fans, and the middle strip fuse (40 amp) for the fast speed of the fans. Check that the black/blue wire at pin 9 of the 14-way connector has 12V when ignition is on. I'm not sure where voltage rail "A20" originates, but it is an ignition switched supply, that also feeds the G65 sensor and some other stuff, so it seems relevant to your fault codes.
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@WelshSkoda93 some cars don't have a radiator thermoswitch, but use another sensor, often same PN as the coolant temp sensor, located in radiator outlet hose fitting. Suspect the OP'S's car has this arrangement. @iulian_cristian can you provide the VIN so I can look up most relevant circuit info, please?
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I'd have a go at repairing one, under the microscope. Might be quite tricky, but could be fun to try. Probably wouldn't use gold wire though, unless someone wants to treat me to 10cm of 0.1mm for £32 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114870867902 😁
