Breezy_Pete

@MarcB7 Did you solve this?

HI @Maurycy, I don't really understand why a change of this unit would affect the speedo. I know there's a coding item in the instruments module (17) for engine type, but not in the central electronics unit. An indicator chip transplant could well be successful, I've not tried to do one, but hot air should be all that's required, and maybe a bit of fresh solder paste. Please keep us informed if you succeed. I have a unit that has an indicator fault, awaiting repair, so will be attempting it myself very soon.

Unplug the single-wire connector from the oil pressure switch, looking for oil inside the connector. If there is any, replace the switch.

Welcome.

Hard to tell from that angle, but exit of EGR pipe doesn't look blocked? Plenty of scope for soot removal generally though.

Flat screwdriver tip into the gap, then twisted to provide lift.

Maybe the switch within the motor that ( I guess) tells the BCM where the park position is?? Ringed in red here:

Hi Zoe, unfortunately there will not be a separate, pluggable relay for this. It will be built (soldered) into the body control module (BCM). It may be a broken wire rather than a relay problem though. It would be sensible to check the wiring where it goes from car body into the tailgate, the flexion there can sometimes fracture wiring. The feed and earth to the rear window heating is a red/black and a brown wire respectively, both reasonably thick.

Start with the throttle-body end of the steel EGR pipe. Nothing worth inspecting with the MAP. The only bit accessible after removing it is the intake temperature sensor part.

Usually called console bush. 1K0407183E Can be a pain to remove and replace, especially if the long screw that holds the front of the wishbone is seized in the alloy console.

Showing results for '"12v battery problem"' in content posted in Skoda Octavia Mk IV (2020 > ). - BRISKODA

Front silencer (mid section) is 6RA 253 209P, £175.50 + VAT. Rear silencer 6RA 253 609AR £250 + VAT. Those prices are for genuine, at Skoda dealership parts counters.

Clutch switch failure might be the cruise control problem, VCDS should tell you what is. I wouldn't replace coilpacks unless failed, and keep at least one of the old ones if you do swap them out. Pattern parts might be more prone to failure than old originals (if originals are what they are). Consider replacing the oil vapour separator on the back of the block, they tend to clog up over the years. Check the brake servo vac hose carefully by feel as well as visually. See what pressure rating the fuel filter is, some people find that replacements with wrong rating have been fitted. Stamped into rear face usually, just in front of right rear wheel, camera phone may be best to view at arms length.

Might also be the suffix -AS part depending on body shape. VIN or reg number would enable me to check which.

Seen about 10 different methods in various YouTube vids, all look hard. 😆

Bassenthwaite it was. Very smooth, easy and comfortable. The M6 was even almost roadworkless, which was astonishing. Just done a couple more round-trip commutes of 45 miles and finally filled up this morning with about 50 miles range still showing. 705 miles from 62 litres, about 51.5mpg. Not that great, but not terrible either. Discovered a '2 hrs' message pops up on the dash to remind you to take a break, which I didn't initially know how to cancel (other than by taking a break). Then on the way back found the button on the end of the wiper stalk that lets me cancel that and view all the trip/speed/mpg data, which I hadn't previously discovered. Thought it just always displayed miles remaining. 😁 Very comfortable; no complaints either way from me, my adult passenger, nor either of his teenage kids from the back seat. Trouble I'm having now is the prospect of shifting the Polo on, when I know that it's 'good enough' for me, has negligible repair costs and everything currently tip top, except the saggy roof lining. Versus the A4 with known suspension work needed (front upper control arms including infamous pinch bolt) unknown flywheel/clutch/turbo condition etc. Hurting my brain a bit. 😆

Once you've ruled out wrong fuel pressure, checking the brake servo vacuum line for cracks at the junctions of the hard pipe sections is always worth doing. That can play havoc with fuel/air mixture control.

Precat oxygen sensor is a wideband type, part number 036 906 262G Post cat is 036 906 262D, simple/binary type. Aftermarket prices tend to be pretty low on both, and sometimes you can find new genuine ones at good prices on ebay, I guess where people have bought and then not got round to fitting or suchlike.

Cheers, I deleted that question, cos I spotted that it says engine size 1400 on the printout, and I think in 2006 that means it can only be 1.4/16V. However, VIN gives some useful info, such as the fuel filter/regulator being 3-bar rated. Any recent replacement of that, possibly getting a wrong-rated 4 bar one by mistake? Will look up oxygen sensor part numbers for you. Might not be that though (either of them).

Deleted. Spotted the info in the print out

This may help, although long-winded and LHD. I expect mk2 Fabia and Roomster to be near identical. He gets visibility of it about 17 minutes in!

Are you saying that is what the test has shown? Generally on a 1.2 HTP, replacement of all exhaust valves. Big, expensive job unfortunately.

Always best to do the test before worrying about what the results may mean. If one cylinder has lower compression than the others, that may explain why it's misfiring sometimes.

Do a compression test.

CAN gateway.