Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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ABS module is just below engine ECU. Can look up wiring info tomorrow if you like, but it's probably in the circuit diagrams contained here:
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VIN can be discovered by entering your reg number at chipex.co.uk and reading from the resulting URL at the top of the page (may need to scroll across the length of it). Also visible through windscreen from outside, just below passenger side wiper, generally.
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The person giving the answer may not have understood the possibility of it being a poor translation.
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Hysteresis, I expect. I'm sure you're familiar with the idea, but for anyone not, this describes it in the context of microswitches https://my.avnet.com/abacus/resources/article/understanding-micro-switches-and-hysteresis/. Oil pressure switches and thermoswitches are variants of the above, I think. You tend to see more than one number quoted in both cases, a 'turn on' value and a 'turn off' one.
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I would suspect the window motor module/its connections local to itself, even if the window is working fine from the switch. The 'key turned in lock' signal goes via the window motor, and isn't simply passed through it. You may be able to see traces of green corrosion residue on the right-angled adaptor bit that takes the loom connector wiring down onto the circuit board if you carefully unclip it from the top of the motor There are long fork-like prongs that connect to a board-mounted male connector, and these seem to suffer from condensation mediated corrosion, both of the contacts and under the black plastic body. Unlike some posters on here, I tend to believe that a careful visual inspection of the door loop wiring is generally all that's required, broken wires are usually very obvious. Replacing the timing chain on one of these engines is more likely to cause problems than prevent them, in my opinion. It's a big, tedious job with lots of opportunity to knob up. Keep the oil fresh/young and never park it on a slope in a gear which would tend to make the engine rotate backwards if the handbrake allowed a little movement.
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Pressure switch is on gearbox end of the engine, by the looks of this vid (see at around 1:30). Green plastic body with single wire connection. https://youtu.be/3XXI-kpis4c?si=5NGqHCpaU-5dgx0F Any traces of oil inside the detached connector would have me replacing the switch, part number is 03C 919 081.
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Ah, I think I know where I was going wrong. The one I was comparing photos with was a front bearing, which looks different. I think the following pic is a rear one, looking like yours:
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Pretty sure the magnetic bit is inboard of your markings/damage. The bit I've scribbled in blue on: Edit, nah, ignore, see following posts
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There are definitely some other threads on the forum with similar issues. I think if you search for the phrase "Reduced oil pressure switch" you may come across them and find useful info from others' experiences.
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Your engine has three oil pressure switches, I believe; do you know which one was changed?
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Time is so valuable for you Graham, that you find giant wodges of it every day to post in this thread.
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Servo vac hose for your car is still available from Skoda, part number 6Q2 612 041 CD, £41.65 + VAT at a Skoda dealer's parts counter. Can you see where it's leaking? Generally from cracks at junctions of hard plastic sections. Repair (shorten and refit) may be possible with help from hot air to soften.
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No, brake servo is the big black round thing just behind the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder. Maybe we're talking about a different vac hose?
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Reg plate number or VIN could allow me to research things a bit for you (tomorrow).
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The shut off code tells you why the compressor has been disabled, assuming this is what happens after 30 minutes running. That information should be very helpful in fixing it. Codes are in that link to Ross-tech forums that I gave earlier. Measuring value group 2, field 1 is apparently where the shut off code is found.
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- air conditioner
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No, you don't run scans, you just connect to module 08 (HVAC) and look at measuring block data, live. One channel of this will be "Comprossor shut off code" (With that spelling error in compressor, if I remember right).
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Is that the fuel filter mounted just below it? If so, that seems a bit scary since those pressure sensors have been known to get so hot that they melt. I don't know much about the unconnected hose, but I think it would be connected downstream of the DPF if it were connected, which ought to be close to atmospheric pressure as long as the remaining exhaust parts aren't blocked. Having it unconnected just means that the pressure upstream of the DPF is compared to atmospheric pressure via the open hose. The sensors do fail quite often, so that may be what the fault code is telling you. I don't know what else to suggest except perhaps to make sure the wiring to it looks undamaged.
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VCDS Lite, the freeware version should work on your car. Download it via ross-tech.com website. You then need a (cheap, generic) KKL/FTDI cable to connect laptop and car together.
- 30 replies
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- air conditioner
- bcm
- compressor
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The climate control module will have the 'shutoff code' available to be read by an appropriate scan tool, if it is connected at a time when the A/C is not cooling, I think. Lots of info here: Tis’ the HVAC Season | Ross-Tech Forums
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- air conditioner
- bcm
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Probably intentionally not connected. Appears to be no sign of any hose clip having been on that loose end? Many engines leave that port open to atmosphere.
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What colour is the oil warning light you're seeing? Level sensor only triggers a yellow warning light, pressure switch is what triggers red. Pressure switch failure is often accompanied by oil within its single-wire connector.
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I suspect that would fit, but you would lose the electronic control function, cos that doesn't get mentioned in the description there.
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Part number is usually repeatedly written along the hard plastic sections of the hose. Brake servo end goes to the brake servo. 🤔 If you tell me reg number or VIN I could look up part number for you.
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The second and third photos show the top mount (or bearing part of it) no longer at the top.
