Breezy_Pete

If you look at the second photo of eBay listing number 394480263963 you'll see that there are three fasteners that are accessible from front side of the fan shroud. Bit of a mission to get to them unfortunately, because it's tight to remove the fan shroud, after other fan is removed with its 'plastic tripod' bit. Beware of rusty Tx30 fasteners that will round off if tool engagement is shallow.

If you can get the voltage regulator/brushpack off without too much grief, check brush lengths.

Brake pedal switch and clutch switch both use that same A20 voltage rail, so if the fuse was blown, that's why they were giving bad info. Oil level/temp sensor also uses it, if your car has such a thing in the sump? It would be good to work out why that fuse failed.

3 bar fuel system on your car, current part number of filter including pressure regulator is 6Q0 201 051H. You could change them every 20 miles if you were completely insane. Very little chance that there's anything wrong/degraded with the one you have on there, unless it has done huge mileage or been erroneously replaced with a 4-bar rated one. The other risk associated with changing is that you'll damage a seal on one of the bits of pipework. Really, unless it's the wrong rating (examine the ends, it's usually stamped somewhere), there's almost no chance whatsoever that replacement will improve anything.

Reg number or VIN will allow me to look up the correct pressure rating for you.

Cabin fuse 5, 7.5 Amp rated, seems to be the origin of rail A20.

Thanks, yes, that confirms that you have "G83 Coolant temperature sender - radiator outlet" instead of radiator thermoswitch. There are three fuses that feed the radiator fan control unit, cabin fuse 16 (10 Amp) and two in the battery fuseholder, the right hand blade fuse (30 Amp) for the first speed of fans, and the middle strip fuse (40 amp) for the fast speed of the fans. Check that the black/blue wire at pin 9 of the 14-way connector has 12V when ignition is on. I'm not sure where voltage rail "A20" originates, but it is an ignition switched supply, that also feeds the G65 sensor and some other stuff, so it seems relevant to your fault codes.

@WelshSkoda93 some cars don't have a radiator thermoswitch, but use another sensor, often same PN as the coolant temp sensor, located in radiator outlet hose fitting. Suspect the OP'S's car has this arrangement. @iulian_cristian can you provide the VIN so I can look up most relevant circuit info, please?

I'd have a go at repairing one, under the microscope. Might be quite tricky, but could be fun to try. Probably wouldn't use gold wire though, unless someone wants to treat me to 10cm of 0.1mm for £32 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114870867902 😁

Oil pick-up pipe would be the next suspect if the filter change doesn't help (enough).

Can't remember if the door end of the bellows clips onto a different coloured fitting, but the A-pillar end is a white frame. Maybe you have the bellows the wrong way round? The key to success is to have the white frame engaged fully onto the rubber bellows and then clip it in, rather than fitting white frame first and then struggling to get the rubber onto it. This video may be useful, showing removal and refitting of A-pillar end, I think:

If you unplug the refrigerant pressure sensor, G65, do you still get the short to ground fault?

Hello Jarek and welcome to Briskoda. 🙂

I would probably advise putting the sealant on after everything is in place and all functions checked, rather than while fitting. It will get very messy otherwise. Is it a screwed on or rivetted carrier panel? Former are so much easier to deal with. The issue with the button rod is that the panel needs to come downward over that, but the panel has to come into the door upward because the window runners go beyond the top edge. Makes it a bit tricky, and bending stuff risks breakage. Just go gently. I seem to remember that last time I did one it was also the lock wiring going through that made life difficult if the lock was prefitted to door. Avoided by having the lock fitted to the panel first instead.

There can be a dual relay arrangement in these units, which swap the polarity of the power to the motor, enabling up and down. This dual relay can have one contact burnt that means it can still go one way, but not the other. Relay will either be on a small circuit board within that assembly, or possibly remote, in another control unit.

The only purpose it serves is to allow assembly and disassembly of the whole carrier panel on/off the door, complete with lock prefitted. This does make it easier to correctly locate the vertical metal rod that the door pin sits atop, it's awkward to feed it through if the lock is already bolted up to the door. Most Fabias of similar age won't have those brackets any more. In the back doors those brackets actually considerably exacerbate the age-old door carrier leak problem, by directing water that would have dripped harmlessly down through the door cavity onto the carrier instead.

Seems pretty close. I'll send you a private message with a phone number and some suggestions of when I may be able to visit for a look. Do you have a way of charging the battery in the meantime?

Hi, which side of Swindon are you? I'm just at Highworth; wouldn't mind having a look for you. Blue wire would probably require looking from beneath, yes. If it's similar to mk1 Fabia, there's a plug/socket interconnection near the starter motor, that commonly is the source of breaks in one or both wires.

Blue wire, or alternator voltage regulator failed, or brushes worn too short? Seems very low mileage for alternator trouble, is the car used only occasionally?

Which fuses were changed? Was either blown or cracked?

Cabin fuses 18 and 19, in addition to radio.

Yes, I've heard of some procedure that is supposed to be done after new compressor installation. I don't have any experience or knowledge about it, sorry. I don't have any other ideas at this time; maybe someone else can help.

Definitely. I would have done the same. Not a common problem, as far as I know, so most 2nd hand ones will be fine.

Not a great way to present the scan data,, can you please just copy and paste the text file? According to the ross-tech thread I linked, that shutoff code is the HVAC unit being asked to inhibit cooling by the engine control unit. Unfortunately, it isn't immediately obvious to me why this might be happening. Well worth repairing/replacing the outside temperature sensor though, since that is one of the inputs that the HVAC module uses to work out how to control temperatures in the cabin. I wouldn't worry about the internal control module error, I think that is common and unimportant.

For a Yeti built from Nov 2013 onward it's a 5054 page pdf document that covers all variants. Available to download (for a small fee) from erWin Skoda. Agree that error code specifics would be handy to know.