Breezy_Pete

Oil pick-up pipe would be the next suspect if the filter change doesn't help (enough).

Can't remember if the door end of the bellows clips onto a different coloured fitting, but the A-pillar end is a white frame. Maybe you have the bellows the wrong way round? The key to success is to have the white frame engaged fully onto the rubber bellows and then clip it in, rather than fitting white frame first and then struggling to get the rubber onto it. This video may be useful, showing removal and refitting of A-pillar end, I think:

If you unplug the refrigerant pressure sensor, G65, do you still get the short to ground fault?

Hello Jarek and welcome to Briskoda. 🙂

I would probably advise putting the sealant on after everything is in place and all functions checked, rather than while fitting. It will get very messy otherwise. Is it a screwed on or rivetted carrier panel? Former are so much easier to deal with. The issue with the button rod is that the panel needs to come downward over that, but the panel has to come into the door upward because the window runners go beyond the top edge. Makes it a bit tricky, and bending stuff risks breakage. Just go gently. I seem to remember that last time I did one it was also the lock wiring going through that made life difficult if the lock was prefitted to door. Avoided by having the lock fitted to the panel first instead.

There can be a dual relay arrangement in these units, which swap the polarity of the power to the motor, enabling up and down. This dual relay can have one contact burnt that means it can still go one way, but not the other. Relay will either be on a small circuit board within that assembly, or possibly remote, in another control unit.

The only purpose it serves is to allow assembly and disassembly of the whole carrier panel on/off the door, complete with lock prefitted. This does make it easier to correctly locate the vertical metal rod that the door pin sits atop, it's awkward to feed it through if the lock is already bolted up to the door. Most Fabias of similar age won't have those brackets any more. In the back doors those brackets actually considerably exacerbate the age-old door carrier leak problem, by directing water that would have dripped harmlessly down through the door cavity onto the carrier instead.

Seems pretty close. I'll send you a private message with a phone number and some suggestions of when I may be able to visit for a look. Do you have a way of charging the battery in the meantime?

Hi, which side of Swindon are you? I'm just at Highworth; wouldn't mind having a look for you. Blue wire would probably require looking from beneath, yes. If it's similar to mk1 Fabia, there's a plug/socket interconnection near the starter motor, that commonly is the source of breaks in one or both wires.

Blue wire, or alternator voltage regulator failed, or brushes worn too short? Seems very low mileage for alternator trouble, is the car used only occasionally?

Which fuses were changed? Was either blown or cracked?

Cabin fuses 18 and 19, in addition to radio.

Yes, I've heard of some procedure that is supposed to be done after new compressor installation. I don't have any experience or knowledge about it, sorry. I don't have any other ideas at this time; maybe someone else can help.

Definitely. I would have done the same. Not a common problem, as far as I know, so most 2nd hand ones will be fine.

Not a great way to present the scan data,, can you please just copy and paste the text file? According to the ross-tech thread I linked, that shutoff code is the HVAC unit being asked to inhibit cooling by the engine control unit. Unfortunately, it isn't immediately obvious to me why this might be happening. Well worth repairing/replacing the outside temperature sensor though, since that is one of the inputs that the HVAC module uses to work out how to control temperatures in the cabin. I wouldn't worry about the internal control module error, I think that is common and unimportant.

For a Yeti built from Nov 2013 onward it's a 5054 page pdf document that covers all variants. Available to download (for a small fee) from erWin Skoda. Agree that error code specifics would be handy to know.

@MarcB7 Did you solve this?

HI @Maurycy, I don't really understand why a change of this unit would affect the speedo. I know there's a coding item in the instruments module (17) for engine type, but not in the central electronics unit. An indicator chip transplant could well be successful, I've not tried to do one, but hot air should be all that's required, and maybe a bit of fresh solder paste. Please keep us informed if you succeed. I have a unit that has an indicator fault, awaiting repair, so will be attempting it myself very soon.

Unplug the single-wire connector from the oil pressure switch, looking for oil inside the connector. If there is any, replace the switch.

Welcome.

Hard to tell from that angle, but exit of EGR pipe doesn't look blocked? Plenty of scope for soot removal generally though.

Flat screwdriver tip into the gap, then twisted to provide lift.

Maybe the switch within the motor that ( I guess) tells the BCM where the park position is?? Ringed in red here:

Hi Zoe, unfortunately there will not be a separate, pluggable relay for this. It will be built (soldered) into the body control module (BCM). It may be a broken wire rather than a relay problem though. It would be sensible to check the wiring where it goes from car body into the tailgate, the flexion there can sometimes fracture wiring. The feed and earth to the rear window heating is a red/black and a brown wire respectively, both reasonably thick.

Start with the throttle-body end of the steel EGR pipe. Nothing worth inspecting with the MAP. The only bit accessible after removing it is the intake temperature sensor part.