Breezy_Pete

I think the low speed resistor within your radiator fan has burnt out. Test by unplugging the fan from car and measuring between the connector pins with red wires. You should be able to measure a small resistance between these pins, I think you will see no connection. Replace fan, or repair with an external resistor, but at your odometer reading, it may be best to replace. I think there may be more wrong than just this, but it should help both temperature and voltage stability if you fix this.

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Yes, I think you've understood correctly. 👍

^ That's for a different engine, I think.

Take it off, measure the o-ring, buy and fit a new one?

How did the MOT go? I can look up part numbers for you if you supply reg plate or VIN. The 411-000 page does exist on LLL, if you go up one level and then look for matching page numbers in the lower right corner of each thumbnail, but the other two - 010 and 020 are missing, as you say.

Could do with a comma between Rear and Headlamp, to be fair!

Sounds like someone has mistyped your fail certificate. Can you post a photo, with fail code?

@Element7, do you think something needs adjusting? If so, what makes you think that?

Co-packaged, level and temperature @Warrior193.

Two people, each with block of wood and hammer; opposite sides of ring, co-ordinate timing to hit at same time.

If it was clogged unevenly so that one side was hotter than the other you might. But I agree, it's probably not relevant if you have no silikat 'pollution'.

Yes, but if the various control flaps are mis-directing the air leaving the evaporator, it could be involved in causing asymmetric temperatures, if temperature is uneven across its width, and cooled air is wrongly being sent through.

Refill refrigerant, then troubleshoot if necessary. May not be any remaining problem to solve after that. Oh, just one other thing, does your engine coolant expansion tank say "Mit silikat" on the outside? I'm sure I've read about asymmetric heating/cooling when heater matrix gets clogged up. (Maybe only heating, now I think on it).

Right backplate PN is 6Q0609426E. Skoda will still sell you one, but at £115 + VAT you'll probably not want to go there. LLL sell it for around half that: Volkswagen / Seat / Skoda Back Plate 6Q0609426E - LLLParts Pattern parts can probably be found matching that part number that are cheaper. Brake pipe section for right side into wheel cylinder is 6Q0611764R at about £20 from Skoda, pattern parts probably available for less. For left side of car for either part, subtract 1 from the last numberal in part number.

Never, probably. More likely to continue to get worse (cheaper, lighter, thinner, painted with more environmentally friendly paint).

I'll try to look up for you tomorrow. You may need to remind me!

There might be more than one black/yellow, did you notice which position on the connector it came from? What's not working?

Received and replied. Your VIN gives part number 5J0971120BC for driver's door loom. Rather scary £158 +VAT from Skoda; you may well find it cheaper even after postage from LLL parts. Or repair what you've got?

If you tell me reg number or VIN I can look up loom part number for you, there are a few variants.

Thanks for posting, and well done for acting to help others avoid.

Probably a pressure switch then. When they start to fail, they often leak oil out through the electrical connection.

Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts This page should have the answers. How many wires go to the sensor? 1 or 2?

Yes, but it may well give a reading at ambient temp, where the display doesn't. So if that says something higher than ambient when the oil is known to be at ambient temp, it would give useful info.

I'm sure that reading isn't the true number. Would be interesting to use VCDS to view what oil temperature reading is at ambient temperature when engine isn't running. That might give a big clue about sensor defect or not.