Breezy_Pete

I wonder where the leak is.

That seems like a very high price. What is that quote for, which part(s) and how much labour time?

Part number as per this listing: Skoda Octavia 1Z Alternator Wiring Loom Cables 1K0971230GT (Item #287113) (prestigemotorservices.co.uk) Still available new from Skoda at £58.90 + VAT (so £70.68) I told you ages ago that it doesn't go to the starter motor.

OK, so it's more than one cable wrapped up together, but in the pic with lots of green busted strands, isn't that the thick alternator cable part that's suffered? Anyway, you've got to replace whatever's degraded dramatically there, so add your reg number or VIN, and I can try to find a part number for the sub-loom.

I'd be tempted to look for fuel leaks, for such a dramatic change, but you'd probably see that on the ground, or smell. I'm not really very clued up on diesels/turbo diesels I'm afraid.

I don't understand. The big fat wire from SA1 fuse does go to the alternator output.

It's going to the alternator output stud, surely? Black plastic cover over the nut? Measure how long it is, buy a pre-made 25mm squared cross-section bit of cable with the necessary size crimps on each end. (M8 at alt end, M6 at fuse, maybe?). Must be loads of sellers on ebay selling various or custom lengths with ends to your specifications.

In door, so very likely to be a broken wire in door loom near A-pillar.

Diesels of that era didn't use oxygen sensors, because they always ran with excess air. You may be thinking of petrol engines when you refer to oxygen sensors before and after cats. Latest diesels do have 1 oxygen sensor, but I think only the Common Rail (CR) generation of engines. 1.9 TDIs aren't in that category.

Brake servo is the round black thing on the back wall of the engine bay, behind the brake fluid reservoir. The only hose coming from that to the engine is the brake servo vacuum hose. I was referring to a couple of strip fuses as being mysteriously absent from the fusebox. ABS pump fuse and one for radiator fans, I think.

Plenty of other old buggers around will agree with your reasoning @Happy_owner. Relatively few younger people will care what you think, write or do, I expect.

Here you go. Measure each 12V feed relative to the thick brown wire, obviously with ignition switched on (or engine running) for the black/blue ignition switched one on the 6-way connector. J386 is driver's side window motor module, the rectangle below it is the switchpack. Fuses at the top. Ideally you'd check resistance of the wire that goes all the way from pin 3 of each 8-way window motor connector (driver's to passenger's), via the A-pillar connections, to ensure that it makes it, uninterrupted, all the way. That's the LIN data connection between the two modules (and nowhere else). It's a grey/white, thin wire. If all that checks out, I'd be looking to check, again, that you've been supplied with the correct part number, and that it is indeed new. Check date code on label.

I'll pop up a circuit diagram later, with what to measure, and where. Don't suppose you took any photos of it before refitting door card?

Is the door card currently on or off?

Look for whatever info came with the one you have now. It should be 6Y2959802. There are relatively few wires to check to prove that the loom does/doesn't have any broken wires relevant to the windows, so borrowing a meter might be wise. Measuring voltages is often more convincing than just visually inspecting wires.

What part number is the motor module you replaced with brand new? Do you have a multimeter?

Check fuse 11.

Did you change the alloy pipes that the cables go through on their way out of the car body? Might be sticking within there if not, due to corrosion build-up.

Very unlikely to be the sensor itself, more likely an air leak. Check brake servo vac hose as a first suspect. Often crack at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Look and feel for such damage. MAP sensor is on end of intake manifold near dipstick tube. Some interesting absences from your battery-top fuseholder. 🤨

They're both visual checks, but the wiring is probably easier to see from beneath the engine bay, with undertray removed. I have no idea whether you have the equipment and skills to accomplish this safely. Do not get underneath a car that is supported only by a wheel-change jack. Pavements can be handy for creating safe space under cars with two wheels on, two still on road.

Check wiring going to compressor solenoid valve. There's probably a reddish 2-pin plug/socket pair on a bracket near starter motor where wiring is often found broken. No relays involved, except in fan control module, for fans. Also check that all visible parts of A/C compressor pulley rotate as one.

How many times would you like me to confirm this for you? 😆

Yes, that's the factory installed stuff. If things have been changed since, you'll have to work out what they are now. If the discs are the same size (288mm x 25mm thick) and the calipers are original, then pads to suit PR 1ZC will fit.

PR = 1ZC for front brakes. So those pads you mention are not correct.

Front brake PR code tend snot to be amongst the ones on the sticker. Reg number or VIN would enable me to look it up for you.