varaderoguy

It's probably worth running your car on Super Diesel or using a Cetane improver to keep your engine in best fettle.

It is probably failed screen in all honesty. They do fail sadly. Probably worth chatting with @pab567 to discuss your options.

Sounds like multiple and potentially unrelated issues; 1) DPF issues - is your car an oil burner? If its using oil, then you need to get the EGR valve looked at and/or having the possibility of stuck piston rings. 2) Aircon - IMHO - this needs recharging every 2-3 years. If its not been done recently, then go ahead and do it. Sounds like compressor is low on charge and kicking out. 3) Battery voltage - odd voltage/over voltage issues are usually battery related. Typically you will get 8-10 years on a battery before its toast. Check the charging voltage and also do a CCA test on the battery to see what its capacity is like. Replace as necessary. This should hopefully show the odderties with the wipers.

Probably - the harness should still work for you; unless you are willing to put in the door puddle harness into the other door, you can just keep the new harness and keep with the original coding. If you get another harness for the other door, then you can code in the puddle lights as necessary.

Honestly, I would reject the car if it's causing that many problems for you and you've lost trust with it. There will no doubt be a depreciation value associated with the mileage you have done, but if they aren't willing/able to support you then reject the vehicle, move on to a different car.

Hi @Kovacsd - generally first check the quality of the oil. You need 5W30 LongLife III oil. Make sure you have good clean oil and a proper VAG / Bosch filter for your engine. You are allowed 0.5 litres per 1000kms. Anything above that is deemed excessive and needs investigation. Reset the oil service on the car, then note your consumption over a 1000kms and see how much oil you have used. Two areas of failure: Failed EGR valve which allows dirt and crud back into the engine causing stuck piston rings and/or cylinder scoring. You can check the status of the cylinder bore of each cylinder by a boroscope. Also do a compression test and see what that is. You are allowed up to 8% difference in pressure between cylinders. If the bore is good, then 4 new piston rings is the order - don't just replace one, as you may suffer from high differential of compression.

Hello Mark, Sorry to hear you are having problems. TDI engines can be oil burners; there is lots of debate on why this happens, but in essence, I personally think it comes down to servicing in the early years and how progressive the original owners were. General rule of TDI engines - 10,000 mile oil and filter services are a minimum requirement. As to why your car is burning so much oil; you are allowed up to a maximum of 0.5litres per 600 miles/1000 kms - which would be deemed excessive. Things that can cause problems - failed EGR valves or stuck piston rings and/or scored piston sleeves. All this would require to have the head off the engine and for a borescope inspection as a minimum. I would personally go for a new engine if possible; even a half-block with new cylinder block and piston rings and new EGR valve would be a starting place. Good luck - let us know how you get on.

I might suggest that you also enable up Skoda Surround. This works on Amunsden and Bolero units.

I suspect that you have a failed expansion tank cap. The scenario is that the expansion tank gets over pressurised and then the car overflows the coolant out of the emergency overflow at the side of the tank. The expansion tank caps have a pressure relief spring against a plastic shaft. This work hardens and stops the cap from relieving the pressure. In most cases, a new pressure cap will fix your problem.

Easiest thing is if you find a scrapped late 2017 TDI1.6. These all came with 6 speed gearboxes as standard.

You might find what you are looking for at: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Well, the engine does sound a bit "tapperdy"- i.e. I can hear the lifters and the valves. The 1.4's were never the most refined engine to start off with. The first thing is this: you need an ODBEleven scanner to go through the car and get a scan done. This way, if there is an issue with any of the modules, you'll know about it now and it is a good starting place for any diagnosis. Failing that; check the misfire counters on ODBEleven. Increase the revs and make sure you don't have an intermittent misfire. I know you said that had the sparkplugs replaced, but check to make sure the coils aren't failing (or going open-circuit when hot). A rough way to determine a misfire is listen to the exhaust and see if you have "phutt phutt" noise - i.e. a misfire.

You don't - sadly Sasha doesn't tend to visit Briskoda these days. What you are seeing is a legacy of poor display drivers of the screens. I think you have to have a screen of version H51 or above. The screens aren't code linked to the MIB2 headunit. The other issue maybe that you are running an MIB1 system. @pab567 has a matrix, but from memory, you cannot run the new MIB2 screens from an MIB1 unit. It comes down to the display resolution. What to do: speak to @pab567 and get a scan of the appropriate modules from your existing system, get a MIB2 unit and then the new system activated for your car by your local Skoda/VAG specialist.

Anything is possible. If that was the case, you would get a fault code. Can you find somebody who has an ODBEleven and get a proper VAG codescan done on the car please?

That's the coupler with rubber dampers - no - along the prop or cardon shaft, there will be long thin weights that are usually bonded on, but these can come off (usually because something hit the shaft). It will require either identifying the weight that has dropped off and reapplying a new weight - or getting the shaft professionally weighed and balanced by a specialist. Most Skoda garages and VAG specialists can help here.

It will be the cardon shaft between the gearbox and the Haldex unit/rear diff. One of the balancing weights has been thrown off. Get it into a Skoda/VAG specialist for them to have a look. Not good to keep it that way for long as it will put strain on the couplers/mounts.

I suggest putting some air conditioning cleaner through the system. My go-to is Autoglym's Air Conditioning cleaner.https://statuscarcare.com/products/autoglym-air-con-cleaner

I have both and I tend to use ODBEleven now. Not interested in generic code readers such as Carly.

All sounds perfectly normal to me.

Sorry Gaz, I looked at my wording again and realised that you were right. They are allowed, but don't go running around the M25 in the middle of summer with them on - otherwise the Rozzer's might get a tad unhappy with you.

This is an interesting thread. I can give you my experience after running around Scotland with a MK3 Octavia Scout on Winter tyres. All Seasons are probably fine for most of the year, but as you said, when the snow and the hard cold comes, then you need something a bit more robust. I had a fantastic experience with Pirelli WinterSotto tyres. Depending on the tyres sizes you normally run around on (I think they maybe 225/35 R19), then Pirelli do a tyre called a Winter SottoZero Serie II designed for sports cars. These are directional tyres. An alternative is the Winter SottoZero 3 (maybe a more up-to-date design). You don't need to change tyre sizes etc. Here in the UK, snow chains are not allowed snow chains/studded tyres are not really approved of (unless it's obviously snowing and you have summer tyres) but appreciate in Switzerland that they are needed. If you want something more extreme, Pirelli also do their Ice Zero range of tyres (for proper ice and snow handling - includes semi-studded tyres). What I did was buy a set of scuffed alloys, got them lightly refurbished and then had those for my winter tyres. It is also worth getting wheel alignment done as well. Remember, winter tyres should not be used above 7C.

I assume you are talking about the Maxidot system in the dashboard. Black/white version or colour version? I've only ever seen one fail though. Getting the dash out is easy; getting the Maxidot out is less nice but achievable. Suggest taking it to a auto electrician or dashboard rebuild specialist.

A full scan would be helpful. I would also look at the high pressure fuel pump as this can fail on high mileage heros.

The zip.file headers were corrupted. WinRAR recognised that and still unpacked it. Standard pkunzip didn't want to play nicely.

Suggest a compression test on all the cylinders - especially on Cylinder 1.