varaderoguy

Arh - slightly complicated. Your car needs G12Evo. This is not G12 or G13. What happened was that G13 was introduced around 2017, but VAG realised it was not environmentally friendly, so they created a modified G12 with additional cooling properties for more modern engines. The result is G12evo and is valid for most VAG cars from 2016 onwards (although any vehicle except a 2015 TDI150/180 combination) which need G13.

Octavia MK3's only ever had MIB1, MIB2 or online connected MIB2.5 devices. Its probably an MIB2.5 Amunsden unit. You need something like an AAWireless dongle to give you full wireless connectivity (means your USB port will be fully utilised)

You canny find a mechanic who can use a Borescope camera, but you can find somebody to dismantle your engine. That sounds very odd.

We must be getting to the last gasp for map updates. I was only able to purchase one year infotainment licence for my Columbus. I assume that 2026/27 will probably be the last (but I am sure somebody more connected will confirm this)

It will probably be the air redirection flap motor that has failed. A read of the codes should confirm this for you. Known issue. Not too hard to replace. Whilst you are looking at the cooling system, make sure you have removed the silica bag from the coolant header tank. If it is split, then it you need to flush out your entire cooling system. Coolant flush (multiple times) and eventually the silica will come out. Refill using G13 (your 2015 car is the exception to the rule for coolant)

Probably the fuel pump complaining. Also check when you last replaced the fuel filter under the bonnet in case the pump is straining.

Terminal 30 being open circuit is a good indicator that you have problems with blown fuses.

The easiest way of determining whether its the cylinder head gasket that has failed is with a Borescope. Take out the injectors, looks at the mixture chamber and also the cylinder head. If its REALLY shiny and not full of carbon (most TDI's get fairly mucky inside the combustion camber and cylinders) then that is the first indication. Second indication is pressurisation. Pressurise the cooling system (I wish I could remember what the PSI figure should be - others might be able to help me here) and look inside the cylinder - if you see coolant weeping from top to bottom, then you know the gasket has failed. Third way - drain the oil - if it is a horrible [known as Forbidden Smoo] - a milky creamy substance, then that is also a good indicator that you have coolant in the oil.

Sigh...sounds bureaucratic to me IMHO. Honestly, when we have serious snow here in Scotland (metres of the stuff) the good winter tyres (such as the Pirelli WinterSotto tyres) are outstanding and IMHO would be way better than snow chains.

How old is your coolant? Poor coolant or coolant that is over 5 years old will cause overheating issues. It's worth getting a new thermostat and potentially a water pump whilst you are there (the MK3.5's are less prone to water pump failures but it still happens). Especially with Australia temperatures.

You need a leak down test on the injectors. But as with most MK3's they are all getting to an age where ALL FOUR INJECTORS need to be replaced. Don't replace just one.... because you will get failures on others very shortly afterwards. I know it's expensive but it will keep the car running for another 100k miles.

Then coolant is escaping into the cylinder block. Either cylinder head gasket or EGR cooler has failed.

What are your coolant levels doing? Are you using lots of coolant?

Honestly, it's better to get proper snow tyres than rely on snow chains. These come in all shapes, sizes and abilities. Winter tyres, Snow tyres, Extra heavy duty snow tyres with studs....long term over a couple of years they make far more sense. I rock around with all Seasons which is what the weather dictates up here in Scotland....choose some tyres for your needs and location.

As long as they reference back to the original part number, you should be fine. Catalogue images can sometimes be generic.

Typically, the foam insert itself: Jack Winding Handle for Jack Breaker bar for loosing/tightening wheel nuts Wheel nut cover remover Hold-down strap to keep everything from rattling around in the boot Toeing-eye screw-in hook Spare Wheel (whether it is space-saver or 16" [205/55/R16] full-size) Kits are available from your local skoda dealer.

Please don't random "pull" a fuse thinking it will fix the problem or not. IMHO - most of the issues with Emergency call and info button not working was down to bugs in the MIB system. If you have a MIB2.5 Amunsden, then get it patched to 0480 as a minimum, clear out the faults and then try again.

That looks like either a broken CANBUS wire or a blown fuse....most likely a fuse. If the fuse has blown, then its a case of determining where the current draw is and finding which module has broken.

Doesn't matter - it all depends on who you go with for your part. I personally would go with Denso as they are marginally better. Not much between them. That's good - because nobody produces them with Silica these days anyway. The theory was a good one from VAG's perspective; the reality didn't really play out. G12evo superseded G12 and G13.

Hello there; Yes - this is the correct part number. The numbering convention is model code 5Q0, then part number 819031 and then revision A. It doesn't always work that way....its really up to the VAG part code gods how that code comes out. You should look to change your coolant every 5 years. Skoda/VAG had this "thing" that if they put in silica into header tank, it removed all the moisure out of the system as well as lubricated the cooling system. In reality, the bags split. Short answer - no difference; you just have to change the coolant every 5 years or so.

I think a scan of the car with ODBEleven or VCDS to see if the GPS receiving circuits have failed - is probably a good first call. The MIB system will report this to the car if it has problems in that direction.

As to where the coolant went to....the other niggle with the coolant header tank is the cap. These have a built-in pressure relief. All TDI's when they regen seem to pressurise the cooling system and they all loose a little coolant when the regen process occuring. The therory goes that the spring plastic slider inside the cap (that should be relieving the pressure) - works hard and the pressure relief stops happening (because the spring cannot open and relieve the pressure). Therefore the cooling system over pressures and the system will then dump coolant out of the overflow down the side of the engine bay. The Gen 3.5 cars had a revised coolant bottle and cap. If you order: Genuine VAG MQB Coolant Expansion Tank Cap – 2Q0121321A - it may resolve the issue with the coolant loss.

Sounds like the thermostat in that case....but it is worth replacing both and ideally with genuine VAG parts.

Yes, if you are running with the original water pump; they will just die (impellers just grenade and destroy themselves). New VAG waterpumps are metal; You get two warnings with waterpumps; temperature rockets....goes down.....rockets up again then the pump dies.

Always have the correct coolant level - basic checks. Then look further at the issue; you are probably right that it is the thermostat though,