varaderoguy

Do you have LED lights or Halogen lights? It sounds like whoever has done the work has unplugged a number of connectors and didn't reconnect them. Look around behind the headlights and see if there are connector floating. Always use a good VAG specialist. General garages aren't good with VAG products.

You sure that is from the dashboard? Sounds like a third party device such as a tracker. I've never heard the dash make that kind of noise before.

The only LED lights that work properly are the ones from Kopachek - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-front-mega-power-led-dome-lights-ki-r-v2-round I've found they are the only ones that are compliant with the CANBUS network.

With HVAC leak issues; it is worth putting getting a reputable HVAC specialist to put in some UV green dye to identify leaks. Usual contenders are the Schrader valves (high pressure and low pressure) that can leak as well as the condenser located as part of the cooling package on the front of the car. The former takes 2 mins to fix, the latter requires a new condenser. Both operations require evacuations of the refrigerant from the vehicles. Typically on the MK3 Octavia's / MK7 Golfs, VAG recommend that a regas is performed every 2-3 years. I can say that after about 30 months, the HVAC does need regassing. What happens is that the cooling gets 'asthmatic' and needs attention.

oooohhh - no no; there was a (rare) Scout 1.8 litre engine TSI engine that had 4x4 as an option. It stopped being spec'd from 2017. Very few were ever made as their MPG was terrible (from memory, 28-32mpg if I remember correctly).

Canny hear anything untoward on this clip. Check Alternator belts.

I would guess that you need an air-conditioning clean. Whilst there is bacteria that is caught in the pollen air filter, the HVAC system itself needs a chemical clean. My go-to - Autoglym has an Air Conditioning Cleaner - https://statuscarcare.com/products/autoglym-air-con-cleaner You can then use the saniter version for period sanitisation of the HVAC system (I personally try to do it every 6-8 months)

Car is Octavia MK3.5 L&K TSI 190 DSG DQ381. Just back from a driving holiday to Denmark. I wish I could say it all went to plan but it didn't. On the way to Harwich, we started experiencing misfires. Quite violent misfires. The closer to Harwich, the worse it got. Call out Skoda Assist/AA. Found out that none of the sparkplugs were correctly torqued in; one of the sparkplugs was potentially cross threaded (thanks to the Skoda dealer in the Midlands who did that). Misfire on cylinders 1 & 2. 25nm is the correct torque figure. Cleaned up the plugs, correctly torqued up the plugs. Managed to do a further 2000 miles. Plugs last changed at 11600 miles, now on 35k miles. They are shot anyway. 20k miles is enough on those OE VAG sparkplugs. I've got a 16mm thin walled spanner coming for the sparkplugs. I have some NGK Iridium sparkplugs on our shelf at home. DSG high pressure pump is also being problematic. Skoda never filled up the gearbox properly from the factory. Had the DSG serviced by Skoda in Edinburgh at 12000 miles; but the damage has been done to the pump. It now screams like a banshee at high speeds and first gear is being clunky now. The pump is definitely not able to deliver enough fluid to the gearbox. It's been booked into Skoda in Dunfermline for attention next month. Hope it makes it before then!

There was a weirdness though. TDI150/180 engines MY15 had to have G13. Engine codes CVCA and CRUA needed the slightly different coolant due to the structure of the cooling system. In all other cases, G12evo is acceptable.

If you Google DQ200 service you should fine plenty of places offering servicing on that box. Yes, it's sealed for life. No, it doesn't make sense. DQ250 box is 40k miles service - 6 speed DQ381 box is 80k miles service - 7 speed

The car went into West End Skoda Dunfermline for a coolant change (very much needed) and a general check over. I've known the guys in West End for many years but it is a slimmed down operation these days. They have one sales guy, one service manager and two techs. Anyway, doing the health check came back with problems with the brakes. Yerr yerr, I thought.... up selling as usual. But no, it really was a problem. It wasn't the outer face of the discs that had failed, it was the inner face that had gone bad. Like really bad. Corrosion and delamination...the works. So I went to Euro Car Parts and purchased some Brembo discs and pads. Euro Cars Parts are not bad but we found an anomaly in their ordering system. It gave me the right pads, incorrect discs....several trips to Edinburgh later and the correct parts were obtained (The L&K having heavier duty discs...not the small smaller diameter discs). Then rooky mistake from me....there is a correct order in how the pads are mounted into the car. On the offside inner, you have a wear sensor...but there is an order and a slight difference in the pads if you aren't concentrating...cue...slight sticking brakes. I took the discs and pads apart again, concentrated and seem to have got it all buttoned back in order. Oh...did I also mention I'm about to do a 3000 mile journey next week...

You can generally only get PR codes info from dealers these days. From memory, MK3 had the PR codes under the boot lid. None of the MK3.5 had the PR code sticker (very annoying).

Check power. The fuses are in your handbook or you can download the manual from Skoda yourself.

Please find all the approved/known VCDS modifications here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/page/2/#comment-4377159

That sounds very much like the high pressure fuel pump. When was the last time you cleaned the fuel filter? It sounds like it possibly struggling to exact enough fuel from the fuel filter to pressurise onto the high pressure fuel rail.

If you look at the modifications section at the top of the forum, look at the LED replacement lighting modifications; you should have the answers you need in there.

I am thinking that you should probably be trying to avoid reconditioned injectors. They are bad news IMHO. I've seen the reconditioning process being as little a quick clean - without even a modicum of testing the injection pulse and fuel delivery amount. Its very hit and miss. Try getting yourself some good Bosch injectors - set of 4 (including the special monitoring injector on cylinder no 3). Running on Super Diesel is a good thing, although I personally use standard diesel with a cetane booster and cleaner (https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html) for the injectors (cheaper and IMHO better mpg). Its a controversial option, but it works for me. Other things: make sure your fuel filter is clean and replaced every 20k miles too as this can be a source of dirt and performance related issues (getting blocked)

Maybe this might help you: https://vag-codes.info/files/options/vag-option-codes.pdf They are called PR codes: https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/

Honestly....VAG engines need to be given regular stretching. I know the perceived wisdom is low revs, drive in a conservative manner, but honestly, that does nothing but cause problems on VAG engines. I honestly take my TSI 190 and floor it to get the revs up and work the turbo. This also keep the GPF happy, the EGR happy as well as the injectors. You won't harm the engine (that's what the rev limiter is there for). Only caveat is make sure you have enough oil prior to taking the car out and giving it some poke.

You need some AUDI VW SEAT SKODA DIFFERENTIAL / AXLE OIL FLUID Part 1LITRE part no: G052539A2 for the diff. There is (like everything on Briskoda) already a posting for this: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488831-any-guides-how-to-change-diff-oil/

If I remember rightly, 5E3 is a MK3/3.5 Octavia Hatchback/Limousine and 5E5 is a MK3 Octavia Estate/Combi

It sounds like a tracker or other electronic device such as a dash cam.

For those without LED/Xenon lights; its either headlight deflectors or (relatively cheaply) getting some LHD headlights. Skoda UK predicted this and did offer this as a (relatively cheap) swap across if you wanted to go down that line.

Be super super careful. Warning Will Robinson warning: If you are changing the diff, make sure you don't accidently fill / drain the Haldex system. BTW - whilst I agree that the Diff probably does need new fluid, it will be the old oil in the Haldex system that needs changing that is causing the drone noise. Happened with my husbands 2015 Elegance 4x4. Haldex fluid AND screen was changed. Droning almost disappeared.

I would suggest that the cap to the header tank has failed. The cap has a spring in it and stops the pressure in the cooling system getting to high. What seems to happen with the pressure caps on Mk7 cars is that the caps fail and they leak coolant out of the overflow. A (revised) cap from a MK7.5 should fix the problem.