Monkhai

Please repost your question in English, as per the forum guidelines. thanks

Missed that. As long as it’s a suitable battery and a recode was carried out, then that’s covered.

I’ve given a descriptive title to the thread and moved it to the Octavia section where you’ll likely get a better response. At nearly 5 years old and I imagine having sat through CoVID have you checked the battery? A dying battery can cause a whole world of crazy on modern cars and 5 years is not an unreasonable battery life.

None of those offer charger planning do they?

I’d love a superb EV based on the 800v architecture platform. edit…. Especially an estate 👍

As per the title, which route planning apps do people use for their EV Journeys? Which do you avoid? And the obvious why. 👍

😋

Ask for disc thickness measurements in writing as well as the manufacturer stated replacement thickness. then get your own tools, measure and if they have spoken incorrectly report them if a skoda dealer/large chain. How much meat is left on the pads as the shadow on the photo doesn’t suggest they’re worn in the second picture (but you can’t tell from a picture so they might be worn)?

Red light is low oil pressure. If you drove like that for a week I would imagine many parts of the engine are going to be deeply unhappy . Getting the car running again is a trade off…. You could easily spend £800 + fitting repairing your engine. You could also buy a second hand engine and have it go bang shortly after. I would get a price for a complete rebuild before you let anyone start on repairing bits. This will likely be cheaper than fixing it piece at a time, then the next piece etc. Only then with prices etc can you make your choice an informed one. Good luck and please use this as a prompt for the future as why you have warning lights.

I did 😂😂 Since the eGMP platform has a tail happy weight distribution in RWD format I imagine it’ll drift pretty well.

You might get away with a complete rebuild… could bore it out get a 1.7 tdi 😂👍

Sadly my advice would be listen to warning lights. Was the oil light orange or red? If I had to guess (and it is a complete guess) I would think you might have damaged the engine internals by causing higher friction due to no oil. This may then have affected the cylinder compression.

Same sort of results for every vw group car on that floor pan/platform. I’d be very worried if I was VW that they’ve designed an iffy platform.

I read the report, the most common problem was in fact listed as the infotainment? That system was one of the major reasons that the next car won’t be vw group.

Try finding a safe quieter stretch of dual carriageway with nobody on it. 70-10MPH firm braking (not quite emergency stop) and do it 4-5 times with suitable time between them to make sure you don’t get any brake fade/heat issues. That should clean up the surface well. When it’s all cold you can run a wire brush over the very edge of the disc (not the braking surface) to get rid of any there, but that isn’t required.

But only the 2020 onwards mk4. The mk3 actually comes up very well and all the other vw group cars on the same platform seem to have the similar scores. Suggests some bugs in a new platform which may or may not have been ironed out.

Frankly contactless should be cheapest as they don’t have to maintain an app and overheads. it is also the simplest and most reliable option. just my 2p worth.

Sadly when modified it can be a pain as it could be so many possibilities around bits being fitted incorrectly. Coilover wise I would just buy new top mounts, spring, bump stops and something like bilstein b4 shocks. Essentially take it back to brand new OEM spec and check the wishbone bushes etc too. You will save a chunk on insurance and a chunk on physio. 😂 once off you can probably get a reasonable amount for a coil over kit for the Passat on eBay or similar.

Isn’t this already covered here?

This is in a Passat? Sounds like oil build up, have you checked and cleaned the EGR and the intercooler pipe work? If it really is white not blue the check the coolant and make sure you’re not losing any into the cylinders? The PCV is valid too as if not functional can cause oil to end up where it shouldn’t.

On a damp day with salted roads and a bit of spray I could easily go through 3-4L when driving. Estate wise… get the mud flaps, they hugely reduced the rear window spray IMHO. Also make sure the wiper blades are in good nick particularly the rear as it can be a bit harder to find outside of dealerships. Also worth a check for the silica bag in the coolant and its condition. There is a thread on here as that can lead to expensive repairs. Change the air and pollen filters if they have not been done in the last 12-24 months and if you have hit 80k+ do the fuel filter. All give a reasonable improvement in MPG bar the cabin/pollen filter which just makes the AC work better and keep musty smells away. Finally the drivers seat took me a while to get just right. I spent the first few journeys constantly adjusting. Enjoy the car. 👍

The 2.0 tdi is a particularly adept motorway cruiser as you just get up to 6th and go. Efficient too on a good run. I used to regularly do in the region of 250-400 a day and I’d say it was great. Make sure your tyres are up to correct pressures when cold as it makes everything better. Also worth making sure your screen wash is full plus you have some concentrate to make up another 3-5L. The headlight washers drink the stuff

South or west facing with a small solar panel and most the battery camera don’t need manual charges.

New front motor inverter for AWD versions in some and coming soon in other E GMP cars. Should increase range by 5%

The service schedule is quite long on the filters something in the region of 60-80k miles IIRC. As such they genuinely might not have been done, particularly the fuel filter. Depending on how comfortable you are the air filter is an easy DIY and fuel filter is down to your comfort levels. They can really cause issues when they get old/dirty. If you have a smart battery charger, I’d try that first as a car can go mad when batteries reach end of life. It may not be these but it won’t hurt if not recently done and the battery is a simple thing to rule out. Flat batteries can leave you chasing lots of ghost errors whilst the car still runs.