Monkhai

Well hasn’t this descended into something special. If people want to debate the moral approach of some countries (and sone are very debatable) then I’d suggest a thread in the roadside or off topic. on topic, it’s a cheap EV. Many premium goods in the world are cheaply made elsewhere, have a logo put on and then are considered “expensive “ goods. This includes many cars and car parts, for example Volvo is now owned by a Chinese company. Most people will need an affordable EV, be that BEV or FCEV. Global and localised emissions reduction is required and that’s without getting into the geopolitics of oil. Currently one country owns most manufacturing and most of the resources for battery production.

It’s called moderation, and I was trying to find information to deal with a post report. Generally people treat a forum as a two way street rather than a free resource. I will at this point just refer you to the forum guidelines and suggest you have a read before you carry on. They can be found here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines/

I hope you mean the straws 😂😂

I’m sure you’ll get detailed answers Because of your username, I assumed it was a kodiaq. I moved it as the model specific threads usually get a lot more responses than general. Calm… I mentioned that I’d disable it as these keyless entry systems are the most common way to steal a car. This is quite an issue for most brands at the moment. I asked why because if you were replacing a handle because a fault meant you had to press buttons i was going to suggest that might be a good thing in the current time. Details and part numbers can also be downloaded/printed by taking out a short (hour) subscription to the EKTA catalog. If you really want it in general I will put it back there, but as I say you’d probably get more reply’s under a model forum.

I mean if it was me, I’d be disabling Kesey for security so I guess the first question would be what’s your reason for the change?

Obviously the obligatory comment about fire.. apparently if you use napalm and do it in the morning it smells of victory. 🫡😉😋🚁 (To be clear just in case anyone doesn’t realise - Joke do not use fire to clear debris from the car) On a serious note how about a handful of straws gaffer taped onto a nozzle?

Indeed… there are a few examples of duplicate threads you’ve created on the forum regarding the same problems. i appreciate you want help, but please have a read of the forum rules and keep to a single thread for a single issue. Im locking this thread and would suggest the conversation carries on in the one linked above.

Quite a price jump on go since the price support proposal. I’d seen approx 14p/45p, which means it’s a worse deal than econ7 for most.

Scrapyard and swap the seat or a car upholstery company who do repairs are probably the cheapest options if you want it to look original.

This seemed the most appropriate thread to leave open and reply to as it had most information in it. I’m glad you managed to sort your wiring out. Just as a polite request, the exact same question was posted in four old threads and whilst I appreciate your use of the search function I think one would have been enough 👍

I think it's pretty well answered in the post above in terms of wiring and connections. If you wanted to add new wires then it appears to mention the BCM ports. I would suggest if you're not comfortable doing the wiring from the information on the thread, then a dealer/independant garage might be a good call as it will be cheaper than making something go pop.

Just wondering if it's worth it vs the cost of rapid charging elsewhere... At 35p and £30 on off charge it is if you have a 100kWh car vs the now 70p at some of the other major charging centres. Obviously it's not, but that's worrying that it's close enough to be almost worthwhile.

Please keep posts to a single sub-forum, rather than multiple. I've reinstated this thread, as it's in the most appropriate area. Hopefully people will be able to come up with some useful information and help you resolve your issue.

I managed to blank out the latter image, but I'm afraid I couldn't update the one in your first post, so I have removed it instead for privacy. If you want to upload one with the info blanked out/hidden, then you'll need to put it in a new post sadly. Thanks

I’ve edited the quick one, but as the othered are pictures I can’t do it right now. I’ve left the report as review and hopefully someone will pick it up before I’m back at a desktop. 👍

I think I would be asking for - Activation of smartlink so you can use the satnav on your phone to cover for the missing sat-nav - A full haldex service at no charge - AdBlue service so they can check it, plus a couple of spare bottles so you can top it up yourself. - An extended warranty on the vehicle, to cover anything that might go pop due to the incomplete service records. - The next service(or if you're feeling cheaky a service plan) FOC for the inconvienince (Assuming the dealer is local) These are all things that have a high "official" price, but a much lower real price to the dealer, so you're probably more likely to get them than asking for cash.

@MikeHunter FYI, you might want to remove your VIN and other details from that picture. If you can't take it down let me know and I'll be happy to do so, such that you can then post an edited version with those details blacked out.

You must be able to get at the engine code which will tell you if that measure was required. If you can't find it with your code scanner, I'm fairly certain VCDS will be able to tell you the engine code. It's possibly also going to be accessible via a VIN also, but there will be a mark on the engine block also (Although I don't know where) Could be worth calling another dealer and seeing if they can tell you the cars details via the VIN as some good ones are usually helpful.

Isn't EA189 the engine type? By that I don't mean the engine code, but the base engine, such as EA189 and EA288 https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/ea189 https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/company-car-tax-advice/news/which-volkswagen-audi-skoda-and-seat-models-are-fitted-with-an-ea189-engine/ Have a look on the left of the boot floor (Front or back) and there should hopefully still be a paper sticker with a load of codes on it. This will tell you the cars spec and the three leter engine code (BKR etc) and will usually be in the front of the user manual also. This is a very old thread, but gives you the idea:

I thought some ad-blue diesels needed a fix such that they were correctly dosing the adblue? I could be thinking of another brand mind so I would question it. You will definitely want the haldex serviced (oil and filter) or that will cause future problems. You can pick up old skoda SD cards from breakers/online. As for the activation, seems a bit tight, but £100 is still a lot less than you’d have to pay for a new system. If they’ve said the car is a business and it’s not, have you considered handing the car back or rejecting it? It appears you purchased from a main dealer looking at the advert.

Moved to the Yeti section 👍

The coil packs (if it’s the type with them directly on the spark plug) can cause those symptoms. You can buy one and replace them one at a time with the good one to see if it’s one. If it is replace all three. That wouldn’t explain the cam sensor error. I assume someone has scanned and saved the error codes then cleared them rather than just hoping they’ll go out?

Looks to be a duplicate of this thread:

Yes, if they can get efficiency up to a real 5 mikes per kWh, then the fuel arguments are mute as you’re basically competitive up to £1/kWh against £2/L of petrol. Up to 7 and you’d be winning at £1/kWh vs £1.50/l for petrol. Drop the weight of the car and use a smaller battery for a given range and suddenly the car is about the same price as a well spec’d ICE. 5 miles/kWh = 300 miles on 60kWh battery vs 80-100 currently and you could get 450 miles from today’s batteries. 7 miles/kWh and 300 miles is only a 42kWh battery with huge weight and battery cost savings to boot. On today’s batteries you’d be looking at 550-700 miles on a charge. If they can get the efficiency up the charging worries go to be an occasional not regular thing, battery costs come down, the running costs advantages are back big time and IMHO ice is dead.

Tides are predictable… the dam aspect seems unnecessary tbh although I could potentially see a benefit for slowing the inflow/outflow at times of bad weather. I mean you have to ask how that wildlife will survive if coal/gas/oil keeps getting burnt at the current rate. The tidal levels will no doubt change if this continues too.