Monkhai

I think it's pretty well answered in the post above in terms of wiring and connections. If you wanted to add new wires then it appears to mention the BCM ports. I would suggest if you're not comfortable doing the wiring from the information on the thread, then a dealer/independant garage might be a good call as it will be cheaper than making something go pop.

Just wondering if it's worth it vs the cost of rapid charging elsewhere... At 35p and £30 on off charge it is if you have a 100kWh car vs the now 70p at some of the other major charging centres. Obviously it's not, but that's worrying that it's close enough to be almost worthwhile.

Please keep posts to a single sub-forum, rather than multiple. I've reinstated this thread, as it's in the most appropriate area. Hopefully people will be able to come up with some useful information and help you resolve your issue.

I managed to blank out the latter image, but I'm afraid I couldn't update the one in your first post, so I have removed it instead for privacy. If you want to upload one with the info blanked out/hidden, then you'll need to put it in a new post sadly. Thanks

I’ve edited the quick one, but as the othered are pictures I can’t do it right now. I’ve left the report as review and hopefully someone will pick it up before I’m back at a desktop. 👍

I think I would be asking for - Activation of smartlink so you can use the satnav on your phone to cover for the missing sat-nav - A full haldex service at no charge - AdBlue service so they can check it, plus a couple of spare bottles so you can top it up yourself. - An extended warranty on the vehicle, to cover anything that might go pop due to the incomplete service records. - The next service(or if you're feeling cheaky a service plan) FOC for the inconvienince (Assuming the dealer is local) These are all things that have a high "official" price, but a much lower real price to the dealer, so you're probably more likely to get them than asking for cash.

@MikeHunter FYI, you might want to remove your VIN and other details from that picture. If you can't take it down let me know and I'll be happy to do so, such that you can then post an edited version with those details blacked out.

You must be able to get at the engine code which will tell you if that measure was required. If you can't find it with your code scanner, I'm fairly certain VCDS will be able to tell you the engine code. It's possibly also going to be accessible via a VIN also, but there will be a mark on the engine block also (Although I don't know where) Could be worth calling another dealer and seeing if they can tell you the cars details via the VIN as some good ones are usually helpful.

Isn't EA189 the engine type? By that I don't mean the engine code, but the base engine, such as EA189 and EA288 https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/ea189 https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/company-car-tax-advice/news/which-volkswagen-audi-skoda-and-seat-models-are-fitted-with-an-ea189-engine/ Have a look on the left of the boot floor (Front or back) and there should hopefully still be a paper sticker with a load of codes on it. This will tell you the cars spec and the three leter engine code (BKR etc) and will usually be in the front of the user manual also. This is a very old thread, but gives you the idea:

I thought some ad-blue diesels needed a fix such that they were correctly dosing the adblue? I could be thinking of another brand mind so I would question it. You will definitely want the haldex serviced (oil and filter) or that will cause future problems. You can pick up old skoda SD cards from breakers/online. As for the activation, seems a bit tight, but £100 is still a lot less than you’d have to pay for a new system. If they’ve said the car is a business and it’s not, have you considered handing the car back or rejecting it? It appears you purchased from a main dealer looking at the advert.

Moved to the Yeti section 👍

The coil packs (if it’s the type with them directly on the spark plug) can cause those symptoms. You can buy one and replace them one at a time with the good one to see if it’s one. If it is replace all three. That wouldn’t explain the cam sensor error. I assume someone has scanned and saved the error codes then cleared them rather than just hoping they’ll go out?

Looks to be a duplicate of this thread:

Yes, if they can get efficiency up to a real 5 mikes per kWh, then the fuel arguments are mute as you’re basically competitive up to £1/kWh against £2/L of petrol. Up to 7 and you’d be winning at £1/kWh vs £1.50/l for petrol. Drop the weight of the car and use a smaller battery for a given range and suddenly the car is about the same price as a well spec’d ICE. 5 miles/kWh = 300 miles on 60kWh battery vs 80-100 currently and you could get 450 miles from today’s batteries. 7 miles/kWh and 300 miles is only a 42kWh battery with huge weight and battery cost savings to boot. On today’s batteries you’d be looking at 550-700 miles on a charge. If they can get the efficiency up the charging worries go to be an occasional not regular thing, battery costs come down, the running costs advantages are back big time and IMHO ice is dead.

Tides are predictable… the dam aspect seems unnecessary tbh although I could potentially see a benefit for slowing the inflow/outflow at times of bad weather. I mean you have to ask how that wildlife will survive if coal/gas/oil keeps getting burnt at the current rate. The tidal levels will no doubt change if this continues too.

If they use screw turbines or something else suitable to not harm wildlife and are careful about blocking flow I don’t see how it’s any worse than Hinckley. Besides they’re building anti flood barrages everywhere currently, so some control to deal with surges could be quite useful.

If you give us an idea of your problems, there’s probably someone who can give you some insight 👍

Most battery packs come from there. Huge number of car parts for ICE come from there. I think UK Tesla come from China, plenty of VW group cars have parts I’ve seen withmade in China on them.

Are you saying it’s odd to compare mg4 vs Nero or ev6?

Depends how they implement the cap. If it’s by removing the linking to gas of electric prices that’s good. If it not that but it’s a lever to get legacy renewables onto modern contracts that’s ok too. Don’t forget suppliers on long term supply contracts won’t be affected. If it’s just we won’t pay as much for renewables as gas… they’re mad.

I guess you’ll end up with BEV to replace petrol and FCEV or similar to replace diesel (back when the der pump was smelly and only used by those who really needed a diesel car).

But the vehicle using the energy to turn the wheels might well weigh a lot less than a BEV with an equivalent range. It's swings and roundabouts. More important is that the 0.4 is more than the equivalent 0.2 or less for petrol/diesel. You seem to miss that there are many people I know who travel for business who point blank refuse to buy a car they have to plug in as they can't be doing sitting at a charger for 2 hours + a day. These people are real and most of them would happily buy a hydrogen car as "you can fill up in 5 minutes and be gone". So again, whilst a BEV might be the best option (Subjective) the hydrogen EV would bring many people along, drop the localised air polution and at the very least be a great stepping stone for the stubborn.

Pumped hydro, hydro and tidal barages Tidal gives 4 generation periods a day (in and out twice) at very predictable times that are mapped out years ahead. Plus if you generate in, you can always block the outflow until it's needed and use any excess generation from the inflow to power pumps for the pumped hydro. If you look at cardiff bay, the barage there is a great example of somewhere that could (at least to the lay man) be easily upgraded to a tidal generation barage.

The kia forums are full of how it's nasty inside, like an aeroplane seat etc. Many seem unable to get over the fact that it's about half the price of an EV6, so if you can buy two cars for the price of one it's a hard sell for the 50k one. Established premium brands are doing well, cheap EV will do well with the mass market buyers. I think the likes of VW, ford etc are going to have to up their game and drop their prices. Kia could be in a spot of bother, as the software is "interesting" imho, the car is premium priced and it doesn't have the bandge prestige over other cars that Merc, BMW, Audi or Porsche could count on.

Whilst I agree with your point about a technical spec being met or not, I don’t think you need to be quite so blunt. That first line of your reply just isn’t needed. @chimaera There might be some specs where it can be somewhat beaten, but dot4 is well understood. Plus it’s Brembo, so I’d say it’s much of a muchness. For example I used to run DOT 5.1 when I was doing a lot of autobahn driving as having to hit the brakes hard at 140mph when a caravan pulled out in front of you left the brakes spongy. It’s better at high brake temperatures, but I seem to remember less good at other aspects such as water absorption requiring more frequent changes. If it was me I’d just use fresh unopened tubs of a decent brand of dot 4.