"I'm pretty sure your welding has done something to the heat treatment of the screw section on the damper body, if not to the adjuster lock rings themselves.

they're not heat treated ken, they are just bog standard mild steel, it wont have affected the rings because i welded the threaded section on without them on there

they're not heat treated ken, they are just bog standard mild steel, it wont have affected the rings because i welded the threaded section on without them on there

The threads on the damper bodies are heat-treated now: I've not done any metallurgy in years, but I can see signs of heat effects on them; the brown to blue to yellow (moving away from the ends) colour banding.

the carbon content of the steel used will be nowere near that required to create carbide under rapid cooling.

evan it it were a carbon steel all you would be doing by welding and allowing it to cool natrualy, is normalizing it

they cooled of naturally in thier own time...

ouch is the word that springs to mind:O

You sir are bonkers

Nice job

making suspension DIY is crazy..... unless you are going to use very expensive components of "race" quality.

and anyone spending 2k on a felly setup must be wanting to rally it professionally.

ffs get a grip!

Edited 28 August, 200817 yr by TeflonTom

ok folks, i'm officially on the scrounge

has anybody got a pair on broken/damaged/knackered/old/etc that they've taken off thier felicia floating about that i could have??

i have my old lowered set of standard dampers with -35mm springs. but thats a full working set, so probly not the best thing if your thinking butchery, as they would make a good set as they are!!!

probly not the best thing if your thinking butchery

certainly not

I have a pair of rear shocks that recently came off my fav estate, AFAIK same as the felly. Bottom rubber bush kept coming out of place on one, the other is starting to leak and both have plenty of rust. AFAIK they're not the originals and were new at most 5 years ago. If they're of more use to you than they are to me...

i have my old lowered set of standard dampers with -35mm springs. but thats a full working set, so probly not the best thing if your thinking butchery, as they would make a good set as they are!!!

How old are they/in what condition?

Im going to need some new ones come the next MOT.

Phil

Wonderfoul Job... but for 21£ they give the spring too...?

but for 21£ they give the spring too...?

:confused:

They look really smart, where do sign for my own set hehe! Adjustable top mounts for camber/castor ?

They look really smart, where do sign for my own set hehe! Adjustable top mounts for camber/castor ?

at the moment i've got other parts of the project that need to be sorted first so i'm not making any more yet. i was thinking about camber adjusters the other day as it happens..

So more than just elongated holes some sort of upper and lower clamping plate with stepped marks for accuracy, quicker than using camber gauges all the time. Or adjustable lower arms on an A frame with the ball joint adjustable in and out and the rear bush mounts rose jointed and adjustable for and aft.??

it's would be difficult to make it adjustable at the bottom, if you were going to slide the ball joint in and out you would need to change the length of the driveshafts, they don't have much 'play' in them.

Just thought wonder how strong the A frame would have to be to help cope with rotational forces of acceleration and braking? Maybe with your lower strut brace???????

Doh with ball joint very little is transmitted to the lower arm those forces are delt with on the hub and strut. Good point on the drive shaft, they move in and out any way but probably not enough for serius adjustment

Just thought wonder how strong the A frame would have to be to help cope with rotational forces of acceleration and braking? Maybe with your lower strut brace???????

the strut brace is making me have to scratch my head a fair bit at the moment, there's nowhere to put it where it won't be in the way of something

Rather than run a brace side to side why not try attaching a smaller arm to the body on each side with rose joints some manufacturers do this on the top mounts as no room for a full side to side brace. The idea is stop the strut flexing under load so transfer the flex to the body?

:confused:

I'm sorry I am referring to this item:

Professional Motorsport Parts, Spares & Rally Equipment from Rally Design

i was already thinking the same thing about bracing it to he chassis, although it is not necessary for it to be jointed.. it's strange you mention rose joints, i dug some out from my secret stash earlier, i might use them to make the rear engine mount adjustable

I'm sorry I am referring to this item:

Professional Motorsport Parts, Spares & Rally Equipment from Rally Design

ah yeah i get you, that's what i used, they don't come with a spring but they are available from the same site

Short of a Felicia rally kit car you'll have the wildest Felicia out there:thumbup::thumbup:

Prepare for some good vibrations from a solid mounted engine but your throttle response will be immediate and effective with no bushes to wind up and you can play around with weight balance. Have you had corner weights done yet on scales:cool: