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Turbo Inlet Pipe???


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Good morning all.

I've come across a opotunity to get my hands on a alloy turbo pipe (the one thats bigger in diameter and increases air flow) is it worth it??

Should i save my pennies and get a all in one silicone jobby?

I heard that it helps spool the turbo up quicker but can you feel the differences while driving??

:)

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I'm sure when I spoke to Jabbasport about these they said they can cause surging issues when mapping. At the end of the day the turbo cold air inlet is not very big. - I wouldn't bother.

The best thing for faster turbo spool up is fitting a hi flow CAT, I couldn't believe the difference this made.

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I agree with the hi flow cat thing. I put the silicone tip on mine and didn't really notice anything to be honest :rolleyes:

But then I fitted my de cat pipe and christ! :eek:

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Put the ABD inlet on, its a cheap upgrade and wont pop off as said before, the standard pipe restricts the inlet. Changed on its own you wouldnt notice much difference but like all these things your engine relies on airflow to increase combustion and produce more power. Biggest restriction on this is the cat, remove that then its the inlet pipe, swap that then its the filter. When you swapped all three you need a remap, then you need a stage 2 map but no point without a bigger turbo, front mount intercooler and hoses to replace the pancacke pipe. This is where you now need to look at a different intake pipe as the 45mm std or ABD or whatever pipe will not fit the bigger compressor inlet on the turbo! If you do all that then you should be thinking Conrods and pistons after which you can fit nitrous, cam shafts, head porting. Endless really! Other thing to consider is a set of allow pulleys, £55 off fee bay, reduces crank rotation weight which is good for spinning engine up quicker (no hp gain, gets the torque to the wheels better tho) Don't forget to change the clutch, G60 conversion with lightened fly wheel is good. Once you have a stage 1 map with the bits added you should be seeing around 250 at the crank, this is bad for std clutch & dual mass flywheel, usually resulting in dissintegration, your gearbox's main shaft bearing is housed in the casing clutch side with a few mil clearance to the clutch so when clutch goes wrong it takes out the casting and you need a gearbox! lol, In short buy the pipe and fit it depending on how far you want to take the tuning! Hope that helps.

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Forgot to mention injectors and fuel pressure! the 225 audi injectors and regulator are good for 225! above this go for bigger ones! Also the std exhaust manifold is poor so thats a good mod 2.

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250 at the crank, this is bad for std clutch & dual mass flywheel, usually resulting in dissintegration, your gearbox's main shaft bearing is housed in the casing clutch side with a few mil clearance to the clutch so when clutch goes wrong it takes out the casting and you need a gearbox! lol.

You've just made me make a mess in my trousers :mad:.

So it's not a case of getting a bit of clutch slip - it just goes through the gearbox? I've been running around 250bhp at the crank for 18 months and still on standard clutch and flywheel. I've just spent all my money on 6 pot brakes as well :eek:.

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1) a broken clutch very very very very rarely destroyrs the box, infact i don't think anyone on here has had it happen.

2) tip/sports cat/exhaust/intake and remap normally gets 250bhp? pleaes show all these results as i have never seen a K03s car make 250bhp or above, the best i have seen myself is a shade over 220bhp.

3) the injectors from a 225 engine are good for far more than 225bhp, with a 4bar fpr they are good for around 300bhp.

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1) a broken clutch very very very very rarely destroyrs the box, infact i don't think anyone on here has had it happen.

2) tip/sports cat/exhaust/intake and remap normally gets 250bhp? pleaes show all these results as i have never seen a K03s car make 250bhp or above, the best i have seen myself is a shade over 220bhp.

3) the injectors from a 225 engine are good for far more than 225bhp, with a 4bar fpr they are good for around 300bhp.

Totally agree with Bengie on the claims of 250bhp, as mine with the mods as stated, plus a fmic, has only ever run 238bhp at Marlins and 233bhp at Power Engineering, these being two rollers that I trust.

Has anyone, apart from Delcac, ever run the alleged 250bhp with a graph to prove it, on any rollers other that Jabba??????

This is not a dig, but with the number of modded Octy vRS's on here, and the different rollers they all seem to go on, it seems very strange that the only rollers in the country that can get a regular magic 250bhp out of an Octy vRS with a KO3s are those at Jabba.

ENIGMA

Edited by Beretta
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My 237 at AMD (when it was at Bicester) made the same figure a week later... just to prove to me that jabba`s 250 at the time was not gainable...runs and hides lol

Phil

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It will technically be better, but will not make any difference as power is governed by the ECU. Even if it CAN suck more air, it won't, because the ECU will throttle it back.

As mentioned a free flow exhaust is more worthwhile, not that this is bad just not, well, needed.

Like fitting two air filters, it won't make you go faster unless you are really stretching this air filter - which you are not.

Greg.

Good morning all.

I've come across a opotunity to get my hands on a alloy turbo pipe (the one thats bigger in diameter and increases air flow) is it worth it??

Should i save my pennies and get a all in one silicone jobby?

I heard that it helps spool the turbo up quicker but can you feel the differences while driving??

:)

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