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ISO connector in the Fabia vRS 04 reg


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Guy's and girls

I'm having some problems installing a Blaupunkt Woodstock 52 DAB head unit and Phoenis Gold QX300.4 AMP - This was so easy to install in an Alfa and Mitsubishi but in a Skoda Fabia vRS it seems that the power is crossed and in the wrong direction!

ISO power block diagram

ISOPower.JPG

First before the power would work correctly for the H/U I had to switch Ign Power and Cont. Power - doing this allows the H/U to shutdown correctly - However it does work the other way but the H/U doesn't switch on and off correctly.

Earth - is in the correct position

Marked in Grey - are 2 feeds that are not used by the H/U does any one know what they are, and why they are passing a power feed?

The illumintion feed appears to be correct as the H/U lights up.

Now to the strange bit - the Blaupunkt Woodstock will not switch on the PG AMP, not only will it not switch on the Remote cable seems to aways send 12v down the line even if the H/U is off - but when the remote Cable is connected to the AMP the volts decrease to about 2 volts and the AMP does not switch on. - earthing is fine as the 12v Main feed from the battery is fine.

Now the Blue Aerial Power cable from the Car to the H/U always passes 12v - which it shouldn't do - as the H/U should pass 12v when on and none when off.

I have now cut the blue aerial cable and the AMP remote cable is now working correctly but the AMP will not switch on!

If I take the feed from the Back of the H/U using the cut blue Aerial Power Cable from the H/U it appears to all work.

Now to the questions.

1. Why is the car always passing 12v down the blue cable?

2. Is crossing the Ign and Cont. power correct for this H\U? I know that you will need to do this in some cars? I guess this is right

3. What are the other grey cables used for?

4. Why doesn't the remote Power cable for the AMP still not work and using the blue Aerial Cable does.

Nothing is broken as putting it back in the Mitsu everything starts working again

Thanks in advance

Luke

Details of install will follow soon

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2. Is crossing the Ign and Cont. power correct for this H\U? I know that you will need to do this in some cars? I guess this is right

That is correct. Had to do the same thing with my Kenwood. When you say the amp works using the blue cable. Does it power on when you turn the HU on. And off when you turn the HU off? If so then it can't have a constant 12v feed. Can it? Have you used amp remote lead to power amps in the past? As for the other questions. Not a clue.

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I have had my DAB52 in for two months now.....and it works brilliantly.

My head came with a lead that fitted between the power connector and the head, basically swapping the powers over, having an additional Ign power for the aerial and providing a sub-out phono on pin 3. I think the grey one that you refer to is Pin3, and that's the CAN-BUS??? or a data line of some description.

I haven't powered any amps off of it yet, but the boot changer is and that works fine?!?!?

The power connector is, to the best of my knowledge, on my Octy:

1-Anti-Theft Signal reads 12Vish

2-Open

3-Data K-line

4-Ign 12V switched

5-Positive Supply (Anti-Theft)

6-Illumination

7-Battery Perm Feed

8-Gnd

/Gavin

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I thought the only thing needed when installing a HU in a VAG car was to swap over the permanent live and some other cable which means the HU cuts out when you remove the ignition key? Once thats sorted the RCA feed to the amp will cut out / turn on the amplifier using the remote feed off it? I didn't bother reading the whole of that post because it just started to go right over my head, and once it does that, there's no point me continuing! :rolleyes:

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Sorry about the long post and for confusing you.

Looking back at the post I had even managed to draw the ISO connector inverted. Below is the revised version. Hopefully this is correct.

ISOPower2.JPG

Now to another long post at 23:30

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Humming is because the amp power lead and speaker leads are to close to each other and you are getting feedback across the wires. In an ideal world you need to run the amp power cable either down the centre of the car or on the opposite side to the speaker cables.

One point, you MUST disconnect the data K wire mentioned above. if you dont your local dealer will not be very happy when there diagnostic tool blows up when they connect it to your car. You may also get strange happenings in the car with things like the central locking not working properly because you will be putting 12V direcly into the canbus and as you can guess data and electricity dont mix to well and the 12V will cause signal corruption.

By far the easiest way I found was to buy the necessary adaptors from Halfords or bluespot these will swap the power, bypass the K wire and provide a connection for the powered antenna adaptor which you will also need if you listen to AM or weeker FM stations.

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Pure guess about the hum.....is this anything to do with the aerial power from the H/U being used for the Amp?????? Have you tried splicing into the Ign switched feed???

Also, have you any connection between pin3 and the H/U???? I know there is a SUB output on pin3 at the head, but have you accidentily managed to wire through to somewhere else???

I keep having a think....but that's it at the mo!!

/Gavin

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Humming is because the amp power lead and speaker leads are to close to each other and you are getting feedback across the wires. In an ideal world you need to run the amp power cable either down the centre of the car or on the opposite side to the speaker cables.

I must admit I don't have this problem but I did use the best RCA cable I could find, and run it alongside my 80A power cable with no problems down the l/h side of the car. The humming sound could be this - its interference between two things of some kind, for sure... what exactly, is harder to say. :(

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Brought the adapter from Bluespot it worked the same as my modified one (so no advantage apart from the boosted powered aerial) where the AMP didn't switch on so brought the Blaupunkt Woodstock 54 DAB and it worked.

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There is still one error in your updated diagram.

Pin 1 on the ISO connector, which you have labelled as being for the alarm is actually the GALA speed pulse signal on later model cars. Not sure when this change happened, though. Perhaps, Andy_CCR can enlighten us.

Bagpuss.

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As far as I'm aware, all Octys and Fabias are still using pin 1 for speed pulse. I have got some information that suggested that some new 2.0l petrol Octys went canbus, but every Skoda I've looked at (mainly vRS Octy) have had the speed pulse where I expect it to be.

As for the install on my Octy (Which has a Pioneer Avic X1). All that needs is Permanent feed and accessory, for which Pioneer even have swap over sockets in their loom. The spped pulse went straight to pin1. As for the antenna adaptor, just make sure that when you use the adaptor make sure that the blue remote wire does NOT carry on into the car loom. Other than that illumination is where I expect to find it.

So I'm not sure why you are having so many problems with the install.

If you are trying to plug the unit directly into the factory loom, then may I suggest from Autoleads a PC2-69-4 which is a specific ISO to ISO loom adaptor for VW.

OR if you are not a million miles away from me (Junc 28 M25) then come over and see me....

Andy

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humming is normally a bad earth. When I fitted my Clarion it said in the instructions about changing over the power wires it did say lots of late VAG cars suffer from this.. I had the same with my Vauxhall.... and you would think that ISO was a standard.. you could use a convertor from Halfords to switch this for you or change the headunits wires...

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