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Correct Valve Clearance for GLX

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i've been looking to make 100% sure i got the correct valve clearance on my Felicia 2000 GLX (Facelift) since before it was on 0.10mm and is not peppy and uses a lot of gas.

I've seen people post for the felicia LXi .25mm intake / .20mm exhaust

I've seen people post for Felicia MPi .20mm all arround

and other post for .20mm intake / .25mm exhaust

so to make 100$ Black n White

What is the valve clearance for intake and exhaust for a Felicia 2000 GLX Carburator Engine ?

Let me know cus im tire of that car spendng so much gas, and i've done everything exept timing and valves (carburator tuning, carburator cleaning, idle tuning, oil change, filter change, sprayed carb cleaner while throttle high to clean manifold, tyre presure, drive below 2000rpm, changed spark plugs, changed HT leads, check Coils voltage, checked vacuum on plenum, etc...)

so i want to set timing and valve clearance to stock, redo carb tuning afterward and see if my silver feli consumes less gas per miles

if that doent work, im trying exorcisim and checking my feli to AA

0.25mm intake / 0.20mm exhaust :thumbup:

  • Author
0.25mm intake / 0.20mm exhaust :thumbup:

where did you get this information, haynes manual, skoda mechanic or some other place ?... i realy want to make sure cus im going crazy with the fuel consumtion of that vehicle, i dont drive above 2000 rpms most of the time i cruise in 5th gear and 1500rpms driver very little and still have to put in lots of gas.

Haynes gives 0.25mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust.

Autodata CD2 also gives 0.25mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust cold. Those settings apply to the 135 (42kW), 135M (50kW) and 136M (40 kW) 1.3 engines.

  • Author
Haynes gives 0.25mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust.

Autodata CD2 also gives 0.25mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust cold. Those settings apply to the 135 (42kW), 135M (50kW) and 136M (40 kW) 1.3 engines.

thank you very much, i was thinking that the wider gap (0.25) would be for the exhaust as is normaly the wider gap across most engines, but thats one of the reasons i wanted to make sure, ill try o.25mm and reduce the exhaust to 0.20mm

thank you, hope this helps on thje peppiness and the fuel economy

  • Author

i reset the valve clearance today.... vacuum reading is perfect, engine response is much, much better, it feels lighter and less noise from the engine, dou the valve i can hear gently i just came back to this post to thank Favorit Ken for the valve clearance value, and DGW for confirm it, if not i would have set 0.20mm all arround or backward on the intake exahust... thank you very much,

i hope now my car will guive me better economy

i dont drive above 2000 rpms most of the time i cruise in 5th gear and 1500rpms driver very little and still have to put in lots of gas.

I suspect this could be some of the problem, 5th gear at 1500rpm will equate to less than 35 mph. Go out and give the car a good thrash to clear the cobwebs out, as pottering round at low revs and speed will clog the engine up. Being a carb model, it might be an idea to have it tuned up, but first of all check the air filter isnt clogged as this will make it use more juice

  • Author
I suspect this could be some of the problem, 5th gear at 1500rpm will equate to less than 35 mph. Go out and give the car a good thrash to clear the cobwebs out, as pottering round at low revs and speed will clog the engine up. Being a carb model, it might be an idea to have it tuned up, but first of all check the air filter isnt clogged as this will make it use more juice

yup, is actualy 60 to 80km/h i drive, and 5th gear i use in the hole range of 1200 to 2200rpm's cus i dont want to hall *** or accelerate like im in need for speed, i've accelerated the car on highways to 3000rpms but thats so rare...

Air filter is basicaly new, it only has two month since i changed it, and the carb is tune to the point im trowing water out in the exhaust, but without a lambda sensor i cant tell you if its 14.7:1 air to fuel, all i know is is within range (too lean and the rpm needle would jump while idle and car would start right of the bat on cold / morning, too much and engine would trow black smoke fron the exhaust)

sounds like my felicia done the same as you had no joy but found that thermostat was broke replaced that and my car runs sweet now no more 15mpg and heater and feul/temp sensor works now

  • Author
sounds like my felicia done the same as you had no joy but found that thermostat was broke replaced that and my car runs sweet now no more 15mpg and heater and feul/temp sensor works now

Let me ask you something, is that felicia a carburator one or a injector type?

i have no thermostat, my engine temperature is close to 80-75 and thats partialy cus a run slightly lean mix (judging fron several tell signs of fuel mix) heater works but i find that it doent pump out a lot of heat (i does but not as much as i though)

as an update, i feel the car better now and aparently the fuel economy has gone up, but now i feel that the valve sound a little bit to much, just to recap, i set them to 0.25 intake / 0.20 exhaust

btw why intake needs more clearance ? i am a little bit confused about that

btw why intake needs more clearance ? i am a little bit confused about that

It's 'cause the pushrods are made of two different materials i.e. four are aluminium and four are steel. The two different materials expand at to different amounts.:thumbup:

  • Author

from my initial readings i thing the economy is right now at 35ish kilometers per galon, and to be honest, i wouldnt be happy with less than 52, witch would be 31miles per galon and thats what my previous two cars gave me, though the golf GL 86' was 1.8 and the toyota 86' was i belive 1.6

i've heard that this little car well tune would give out 60 kilometers per gallon, hope that is true

  • 2 months later...

Aww Dude!

Thrash it... Use the gears (they're there for a reason) 15MPG??? Mine's never below 2000 rpm & I get 30/35MPG round town & recently on a 600 mile round trip (cruising at betwen 70 & 100 MPH) I returned 47MPG.

Put a thermostat in it for a start. Definitely. Reason? Your car is running inefficiently without one - wrong temperature ALL the time. Thats a BIG one.

Tyre pressures. 30-32 psi.

Are your brakes binding?

Use engine braking too. Read the road conditions ahead & anticipate when you're going to need to slow down & change down gear(s) accordingly (your engine uses NO fuel at all when on "over-run"). Foot braking wastes fuel.

Sounds like you've done everything else to improve efficiency except the thermostat & your driving style.

Get to it.

(P.S. Thanks DGW & Favorit Ken for info on Valve clearances.)

Em, Tonny's car is a carbie model, not a fuelie, and doesn't have an overrun cutoff, so will only drop to idle fuel consumption on overrun, not to none.

  • Author

i wonder if your getting 35mpg (imperial) wich would be 28mpg (us) and 45 km/g wich is very close to what im getting right now (im getting 40 to 42 km/g)

  • 2 weeks later...

Today I changed to the "Haynes" Settings... I must admit, the car feels really lighter and comes easier to speed ...

  • Author
Today I changed to the "Haynes" Settings... I must admit, the car feels really lighter and comes easier to speed ...

outch, that means that fuel economy is also going to go up, and 7.1 L/100Km is alredy a great number.

did you set it Iron rods = 0.20mm (8 thou) aluminium = 0.25mm (10 thou) ?

post back in a week, see if the FE went up, and congrats dude hope my car gave those numbers

yes I did 0,2 iron and 0,25 alloy...

the on board unit shows better fuel economy...

I had 7.8 (it is cold outside)

now I'm at 7.5

My target is 6.8

  • Author
yes I did 0,2 iron and 0,25 alloy...

the on board unit shows better fuel economy...

I had 7.8 (it is cold outside)

now I'm at 7.5

My target is 6.8

if the the test i did on valve clearance are to be trusted you'll get 15-16% more, that will be 6.72, and if i start from the average you have posted (7.1) that i believe is you're monthly average it will be 6.13

not bad :)

i believe that 0.05mm difference in valve clearances doesn't affect compression, it only alters a bit valve timing and that's why you get the improvement

last holidays i had 6.02 :D

yup, is actualy 60 to 80km/h i drive, and 5th gear i use in the hole range of 1200 to 2200rpm's cus i dont want to hall *** or accelerate like im in need for speed, i've accelerated the car on highways to 3000rpms but thats so rare...

--> give it the old Italian tune-up. rarely reaching 3000 rpm is pathetic. The skoda engine was built to be thrashed ... it keeps it clean.

Try cruising at 130+ kmh for at least 30mins to clear it out. :thumbup:

Amen ^^^

last year I did a journey to Berlin (170 km) with a speed of 160 kph... the engine was clean afterwards :D

back from an 80 km test-drive and the dashboard counter showed this:

IMAG0052.jpg

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