Carl has a relocated DV like my Golf not the Forge one, although Forge do one for the front mount boys.

I have seen even front mounted ones get a little 'baggy' though.

D valve part number. http://briskoda.net/octavia-ii/octavia-ii-useful-part-numbers/151344/#post1757519

To be fair what Keith & JKM have been through recently then you are in the very best hands.

basically then your car was fine until the mods were installed, which is strange.

Not necessarily. The comparison was only done from the RR run in Feb and once the DP was put on. You would normally expect around 5bhp and and bit more lb/ft adding the DP with the Mods i have.

If you look at the graphs though i am 30lb/ft DOWN at 2000rpm than when i did the RR in Feb.

Inititialy i would have asked if your forge DV required servicing, but as it was ok prior to the downpipe being fitted i dont think that would be it. Also with the forge being a piston operated DV you shouldnt get a pinhole or tear should you???? cheap option to replace with the D revision for 40 quid and trial it, and if its not the problem either sell it on or sell your forge DV.

As above and also as Ian says. My DV is in the KO4 position with an OEM DV on so it could have a tear.

other options could be a corrupt remap maybe or ECU issue. or are you having an issue with the Autotech fuel pump internals not working at full capacity. you said there were instances of the autotech internals not working correctly??

what is the N75 duty cycle out interest ive heard about a few times, but not sure what it is?

good luck finding the fault, hope it gets sorted out

Keith assured me the Map is fine. Also he went over the whole system and the fuel seems to be fine (maybe a bit rich) but fine so that rules out the Intenals.

The N75 (from what my limited knowledge is from what Keith said) is what indicates a boost leak. Basically if there was a boost leak the value it would put out would be around 99.6 (Keith or anyone else in the know if im talking utter 5hit feel free to correct me). With the DP on it was 80 - 85ish (which i was told was fine). However when Stage 2+ went on it dropped to around 60 - 65ish which is what is confusing Keith because that doesn't indicate a boost leak

I have seen even front mounted ones get a little 'baggy' though.

To be fair what Keith & JKM have been through recently then you are in the very best hands.

I am having a brew then im going over the car with a fine tooth comb starting with the FMDV.

If you all don't hear from me for a couple of days it's because i've got the engine stripped completely and can't remember how to put it back together

Carl:thumbup:

Well i've checked everything and Sent logs to Keith who is still none the wiser :(:(

PCV is fine

DV - If it has a hole it's microscopic

EVOMS - Filter was off but doubt that was the problem

Turbo Outlet - all fine

Got some more logs to do but this is looking like it's going to be a needle in a haystack problem :(:(:(

Anyone any suggestions PLEEEEEEEASE

Carl

What happens if you go back to Stage 2?

I lose even more power and torque

Carl

Can you re-fit your old intercooler and pipework and see if that makes a difference? Not ideal in terms of cooling but as this in one of the thigs you changed going from stage 2 might be worth a try to see if there is an issue with the S3 intercooler they fitted.

The only thing that was changed yesteday was the Turbo Downpipe was fitted and the Stage 2+ was done

Everything else was already on the car. If you look at the second graph all the mods were on the car at that point and it was running fine.

The issue is in something that has happened since then to yesterday and that is what we are trying to tie down

Carl

gotcha didnt realise you had used the map from the RR day in feb, I thought you had got the RR done then the DP followed by another run then stage 2+.

I take it you hadnt noticed any other issue with the car or power delivery except the leaking DP.

Is it possible to pressure test the IC to see if the leak is to do with that.

other than that i dont know.

is there anyone local who could take their DV of for 5 mins to let you try it on yours. just to be certain. and as you say the PCV is fine. they are the two weak points normally associated witrh the car

we can swop my old dv on , or we can take the forge 1 off my car and eliminate any possibility its that .

maybe swop my intake back onto yours and try that .

Does it feel it has more power than stage 2? It should give at least 280bhp on JKM's RR. I wonder about the MAF? Maybe try a clean?

I have a spare MAF here too, if you want to try that?

The problem you have is that you are using the old graph for comparison, where something else may have changed/gone bad in the meantime.

Definitely eliminate the DV if you can nip to the dealer and buy one (D revision).

What are the Revo settings?

will try my maf then ben , seems just an elimination is all we can try .

If you are looking for a boost leak then actual will never make what is being requested and the N75 duty cycle goes to 99% as the ecu tries to make the requested boost.

You said it was running rich and also the EVOMS filter was off. It sounds a bit like a blockage. Check for critters in the pipework.

With a low N75 value that means the turbo is potentially working hard. Hmmm tricky one mate.

I think I would take the EVOMS off and check it throughout also have a look 'down' the turbo if you can.

Dunno to be honest but if I can help I will.

EDIT: No you can't have my engine. :P

Edited 29 July, 200916 yr by Hedge

Good luck with it Carl, what a pain in the a**e.

Does it feel it has more power than stage 2? It should give at least 280bhp on JKM's RR. I wonder about the MAF? Maybe try a clean?

Nope it doesn't

It actually feels slower especially around the 2000-4000rpm band (which is where the problem is)

I can see this one taking a while to sort. But im sure with Keith's expert guidance we will get there in the end

Hedge: Don't want your engine it's got too big a turbo on it so will cause loads of lag :rolleyes:

Carl:thumbup:

How do you clean a MAF sensor?

Not touching it yet im waiting for a diagnosis from Keith on the latest logs ive just done with Pete (cheers for the help )

Im hoping this is something simple to fix :(

Carl

I'd advise not touching the MAF, they seldom work properly after a cleaning attempt.

Ok will leave it alone. Was thinking that myself.

Anyone know how much a new MAF Sensor is?

Carl:thumbup:

UPDATE:

What ever is at the route of this issue' date=' it diagnostically appears to be inconsistent. [/quote']

That was part of the last email i received from Keith :confused:

The plot thickens :think:

Carl:thumbup:

Strange.

Quite a few TFSI MAF's on ebay last time I looked. Not all that dear as they come as part of the engine cover. I flogged one for about £20 IIRC.

if pete8tch or shark90 is there id try a swap of his MAF, DV and maybe even intake and PCV. be a good way of ensuring what is defietely not the cause

I know this is very unlikely, but if it's a boost leak then it could be from your Neuspeed turbo outlet.

I have one installed on my car, and when I carried out some general maintenance I noticed that the silicone part of the outlet was rubbing on my wheel arch liner. This could cause it to rub and eventually wear down. Yours could be doing the same. It might have a kink in it, but again I doubt that.

How long have you had this part fitted? Might be worth looking at.

I know this is very unlikely, but if it's a boost leak then it could be from your Neuspeed turbo outlet.

I have one installed on my car, and when I carried out some general maintenance I noticed that the silicone part of the outlet was rubbing on my wheel arch liner. This could cause it to rub and eventually wear down. Yours could be doing the same. It might have a kink in it, but again I doubt that.

How long have you had this part fitted? Might be worth looking at.

carls running an evoms harry , i assume theyre different .

doesnt help that its peeing down either.

carl has an evonms, but also a neuspeed turbo outlet pipe. thast where harry thinks there could be an issue.

i think it vould be good to swap that back to OEM to eliminate that from the equation.

ah right i see sorry guys misread it.

only consistant things the bleedin rain.