Please can anyone tell me what Oil is used in the Yeti diesel? The handbook calls it VW50700 but what would I need to ask for in my local Halfords or petrol station?

Just for interest. I asked my insurance company for a quote for the proposed Yeti 140 4x4 SE! £16 LESS than the X-Trail so, with their £25 transfer fee I pay £9. Can't be bad!!

You need to look for that VW 507.00 approval on the label. Castrol Edge do one I think.

If it is the 507.00 Long life stuff, then this list might help.

Briskoda.net/octavia ii - What oils meets specs VW 504.00 / 507.00

If it is the 507.00 Long life stuff, then this list might help.

Briskoda.net/octavia ii - What oils meets specs VW 504.00 / 507.00

Needed some oil for my previous Golf PD before driving to Austria. Being a bit rural used the local motor-factors in town, they stocked the following which is not on the list kindly linked by Jim.

Comma 'Prolife' 5w-30 to VW 504 00 / 507 00

Many thanks to Tom, Jim and The Plumber. I don't expect to be topping the oil up every week but I do expect a new engine to use some oil until it is bedded in. I also expect the Dealer's oil to be priced at a very profitable level.

Being rural myself, I am only too aware of the limitations that the rural idyll poses on normally easy to find goods. Townies have it easy! us rural types depend more on the internet and DHL/Parcelforce etc.

This will prove useful, from Opie Oils - one of the site partners.

All oil meeting the 507 spec:

Opie Oils - Skoda 507.00 oil

Steve

I followed Honest John's advice when running in the Fabia and after 70000 miles it burns hardly any oil between changes - not enough to need to add any.

Honest John's website is at:

Honest John Car Buying Advice - Home

His advice is as follows

RUNNING IN A DIESEL: What's the best way to run-in a diesel engine?

Leave factory fill of oil for the first year or 10,000 miles. For the first 1,000 miles do not exceed 3,000rpm, but make sure you reach 3,000rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 2,000 miles) do not exceed 3,500rpm, but make sure you reach 3,500rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 3,000 miles) do not exceed 4,000rpm, but make sure you reach 4,000rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 4,000 miles) do not exceed 4,500rpm, but make sure you reach 4,500rpm at least a couple of times a week. After that, no limit, but make sure you continue to hit 4,500rpm through the gears several times a week. The benefit of this is it helps to self clean the injectors, it blows any accumulated soot out of the exhaust system and it helps to free off the piston rings, making the engine more efficient and less likely to use engine oil. The latest bain of a diesel driver's life is the Diesel Particulate Filter. On passive cycle the DPF will require the car to regularly be driven significant distances at 2,000rpm plus for the DPF to get hot enough to regenerate and burn off the particulates in it.

DPFs also have an 'active' cycle where additinal fuel is injected into the combustion chambers to creater hotter than normal exhaust gases to burn off particulates in the DPF. However, this does not always work and the extra fuel can instead find its way into the engine sump, contaminating the lube oil and sometimes leading to such a rise in sump oil level that the engine can start to run uncontrollably on its sump oil and will self-destruct.

Peugeot/Citroen/Ford diesel engines don't need to get quite as hot as diesels in other makes because they use an additive to help regenerate the DPF. This used to be added to a tank under the back seat, but is now contained in a bladder that needs to be repalce around every 100,000 miles.

RUNNING-IN A PETROL ENGINE: What's the best way to run-in a petrol engine?

Put the car on a rental fleet so it is driven by a lot of different drivers with different driving styles. Seriously, modern petrol engines are built extremely 'tight' so they need a bit of wear during the first 10,000 miles for the piston rings to bed properly into the bores. Leave factory fill of oil for the first year or 10,000 miles. An early oil change to fully synthetic can prevent this happening, as can driving at low engine revs and driving at steady speeds. So, depending on the engine, self-impose yourself yourself a rev limit of between 4,000 and 5,000 for the first 1,000 miles, and be sure you vary your revs and occasionally reach that limit. After 1,000 miles, common sense dictates that you won't rev the nuts off the thing straight away, but you needn't be too worried about hitting 6,000 rpm occasionally as long as you vary the engine speed. Try never to rev to the rev limiter as the misfire this causes can damage the catalytic converter matrix. Don't change the oil and filter until the first manufacturer recommended change point, or the end of the first year. After that, if you intend keeping the car for a long time I still recommend more frequent oil and filter changes than the manufacturers or their on-board service indicators suggest. It's also a good idea to have the transmission oil changed after the first year to get rid of any swarf which could later be ground up into tiny particles which eventually get into the bearings and accelerate wear.

Both from his FAQs at:

Honest John Car Buying Advice: Frequently Asked Questions

Hi,

would I be right in thinking this:

Oil

Would be o.k. for my 2.0 Diesel Yeti.

I'm a bit new to all this Synthetic stuff... in my day it was Duckhams .....

Thanks

Graham

I have not seen the spec for the oil but would imagine that it is a Full Synthetic Oil. Ah yes I see your link has it.

Synthetic Oils hold grade longer under tough conditions well they say it better My link

Advantages

The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include:[citation needed]

* Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance

* Better chemical & shear stability

* Decreased evaporative loss

* Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems

* Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.

* Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.

* Better lubrication on cold starts

* Longer lasting engine life

[edit] Disadvantages

The disadvantages of synthetic motor oils include

* The lower friction may make them unsuitable for break-in (i.e. the initial run-in period of the vehicle) where friction is desirable to cause wear. Improved engine part machining has made break-in less critical than it once was, though. Many modern cars now come with synthetic oil as a factory fill.

* Potential decomposition problems in certain chemical environments (industrial use dominantly)

* Potential stress cracking of plastic components like POM (polyoxymethylene) in the presence of PAOs (polyalphaolefins).

* Synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil, thus caution is advised when the engine is run on leaded fuel.[citation needed] As an example, leaded fuel is still commonly used in aviation (avgas).[12]

* In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular oil.[13] In their article, they noted that "Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service — stop-and-go city driving." According to their study, synthetic oil is "worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures." [14]

* Synthetic oils are not recommended in automotive rotary engines.[15]

Hi,

would I be right in thinking this:

Oil

Would be o.k. for my 2.0 Diesel Yeti.

I'm a bit new to all this Synthetic stuff... in my day it was Duckhams .....

Thanks

Graham

What I was trying to say was that in my day Oil was rated by 5w-30 or 20w-50 or whatever, with the Yeti it seems to be needing "VW507 00". So would an oil rated "5w-30 to VW 504 00 / 507 00" meet that requirement - i.e am I o.k. to put that in as a top up to that which was put in at the factory?

thks

What I was trying to say was that in my day Oil was rated by 5w-30 or 20w-50 or whatever, with the Yeti it seems to be needing "VW507 00". So would an oil rated "5w-30 to VW 504 00 / 507 00" meet that requirement - i.e am I o.k. to put that in as a top up to that which was put in at the factory?

thks

Skoda-man gave me a bottle of oil with the motor

Total

Quartz

INEO 504/507

5W-30

Reading the gubbins on the back it's synthetic oil, specifically designed for diesel low emissions DPF systems and meets VAG standard 504 00 and 507 00

Must have come from his sales stock as it has £8.95 scribed on it ...THAT'S PER LITRE :'( :'( :'( :'(

jeez a gallon (4 1/2 ltr ) of the Silkolene funky stuff "straight 40" for my Norton costs 18quid and I thought that was expensive

I should imagine if someone did a search on that specification it would come up on E Bay or somewhere similar for far less £.

Here is a starter for 10

My link

5 X 1 Litre Quartz Ineo 504-507 5w30 For Vw Vehicles

Find 5 X 1 Litre Quartz Ineo 504-507 5w30 For Vw Vehicles on eBay in the category Vehicle Parts & Accessories>Car Parts>Other Car Parts for £25.

Add to Shopping List

Edited 8 February, 201016 yr by Anthony 1

My Yeti came with a litre of Castrol oil supplied I think from the factory. I say this as all early production Yeti's I remember seeing had a bottle of Castrol in a resealable plastic bag in the boot.

The key thing is that it must meet the 507 spec as I am reasonably sure I have come across a 5W-30 viscosity oil that did not.

Regards,

TP

Skoda-man gave me a bottle of oil with the motor

Total

Quartz

INEO 504/507

5W-30

Reading the gubbins on the back it's synthetic oil, specifically designed for diesel low emissions DPF systems and meets VAG standard 504 00 and 507 00

Must have come from his sales stock as it has £8.95 scribed on it ...THAT'S PER LITRE :'( :'( :'( :'(

jeez a gallon (4 1/2 ltr ) of the Silkolene funky stuff "straight 40" for my Norton costs 18quid and I thought that was expensive

Castrol Edge 5w30 - ideal for a VAG car aparently - is a mere 15.99 a litre at Halfords...... :S

Castrol Edge 5w30 - ideal for a VAG car aparently - is a mere 15.99 a litre at Halfords...... :S

Here is an other starter for 10.

Castrol Edge 5W30

Skoda-man gave me a bottle of oil with the motor

Total

Quartz

INEO 504/507

5W-30

Reading the gubbins on the back it's synthetic oil, specifically designed for diesel low emissions DPF systems and meets VAG standard 504 00 and 507 00

Must have come from his sales stock as it has £8.95 scribed on it ...THAT'S PER LITRE :'( :'( :'( :'(

jeez a gallon (4 1/2 ltr ) of the Silkolene funky stuff "straight 40" for my Norton costs 18quid and I thought that was expensive

Good morning scunjee,

Just a quick query on oil top ups as you have the same engine as us...hoping you or any other diesel Yeti owners can impart some valuable info to us

Have you topped your oil up yet? and how soon after purchase was this? and how much did it drink?

And what sort did you use?

We didn't get a bottle with our Yeti :no:

best wishes and thanks in anticipation!

Lady Penelope :sun:

Good morning scunjee,

Just a quick query on oil top ups as you have the same engine as us...hoping you or any other diesel Yeti owners can impart some valuable info to us

Have you topped your oil up yet? and how soon after purchase was this? and how much did it drink?

And what sort did you use?

We didn't get a bottle with our Yeti :no:

best wishes and thanks in anticipation!

Lady Penelope :sun:

Hi Lady P,

0.5 litres put in after about 2000 miles from memory, not topped up since but the oils down a little on the dip stick (6500miles). Very much depends on each engine and how you drive the Monster, for example my previous Golf TDI PD went through 0.5 litres to Austria and the same coming back (fairly high speed and nearly a 1000 miles in 20 hours), whereas normally she would go about 9000 miles before needing a top up.

Very important you stick to a VW507 spec oil for the CR engine due to the DPF. If you wish to PM me an e-mail address I can send you a PDF on oil, written by VW and Castrol.

Regards,

TP

Good morning scunjee,

Just a quick query on oil top ups as you have the same engine as us...hoping you or any other diesel Yeti owners can impart some valuable info to us

Have you topped your oil up yet? and how soon after purchase was this? and how much did it drink?

And what sort did you use?

We didn't get a bottle with our Yeti :no:

best wishes and thanks in anticipation!

Lady Penelope :sun:

Hello Lady P.,

I have used 1 litre in the first 20,000 km - 12,500 miles. the first ½ litre was in the first 3000 miles.

You can use any VW 507 specification oil, as you do not really know what they fllled in at the factory. It must say meets VW 507. XX specification on the package.

VW 504 or VW 505 is not OK.

Edited 8 May, 201016 yr by Agerbundsen

Hello Lady P.,

I have used 1 litre in the first 20,000 km - 12,500 miles. the first ½ litre was in the first 3000 miles.

You can use any VW 507 specification oil, as you do not really know what they fllled in at the factory. It must say meets VW 507. XX specification on the package.

VW 504 or VW 505 is not OK.

Thank you Agerbundsen Great help :yes:

I always do the oil changes on my cars as I manage a garage and have looked after all the company cars on oil changes using comma prolife 5w-30 long life and it's spec covers Audi,Vw,seat and Skoda 504 00 / 507 00 acea A3 B4 C3 and comma guarantee the useability to the point if there oil is blamed they will support the garage stroke customer in any legal action required against the car maker who wants to send you a bill for the engine.

This covers petrol and diesel long service regimes

However if you get caught short and you have to top up with a non recommended oil i.e long life vauxhall or something my rule is any oil is better than no oil and unless you put loads in where a oil service is necessary it wont do anywhere near the harm that happens if you run it low on oil

peter

Can someone tell me if Quantum Long Life Oil 5/30 (20 litres for Audi VW Skoda) suitable for a Yeti?

Thank you

Maryann

Can someone tell me if Quantum Long Life Oil 5/30 (20 litres for Audi VW Skoda) suitable for a Yeti?

Thank you

Maryann

Welcome.

Does it state VW507.00 on the label? if so it will be fine. (if not then it is not approved)

Mobil 1 ESP 5W/30 fully synthetic is the oil I have used since I've had my Yeti. As long as it meets the spec it tells you in the handbook then there are lots to choose from.

Can someone tell me if Quantum Long Life Oil 5/30 (20 litres for Audi VW Skoda) suitable for a Yeti?

Yes, it is fine. It is VW's own-brand oil specifically for the 'longlife' oil drain, which is covered by the VW 504 00/507 00 specification, which is what your Yeti needs if on variable service interval. Even if it's on time-and-distance it is still suitable.

is what your Yeti needs if on variable service interval. Even if it's on time-and-distance it is still suitable.

All Škoda’s fitted with a DPF need VW507.00, no matter what servicing schedule you are on.