Yeah, if it sounds like a rattly crossflow, then something's not right - a nice quiet 136 engine can be very quiet indeed with a decent timing chain and the valve clearances adjusted properly - in fact one of the engines I had was quiet enough for you to be able to hear the injectors working.

Let's hear it on youtube. I'm still not convinced the valve clearances are right.

Yeah, if it sounds like a rattly crossflow, then something's not right - a nice quiet 136 engine can be very quiet indeed with a decent timing chain and the valve clearances adjusted properly - in fact one of the engines I had was quiet enough for you to be able to hear the injectors working.

Let's hear it on youtube. I'm still not convinced the valve clearances are right.

Rattly crossflow? No idea what that would be.

I believe I have a 135 engine, according to Haynes, as it doesn't have a painted Skoda emblem on the front of the engine. Unless the paint's worn off?

With regards to hearing the injectors, I thought that you couldn't hear them anyway? ( see my post called noisy injectors)

Here I was thinking I would just get a cheapish low mileage motor to get to work, spent more time on it or under it than driving it I reckon

Crossflow is the engine that's in an old (rattly) Fiesta

135 and 136 are pretty much the same engine, just differently-machined pistons to change the compression ratio (135 is the low-compression version that will run on 91 octane fuel)

You can hear injectors, but things have to be QUIET for that to happen.

Oh, I thought you meant there was a crossflow on the Skoda

OK, managed to get myself a youtube account, I will try to record the engine tomorrow and upload it.

OK, bored trying to out what the knocking noise is now. I took it to a garage today and they crawled over it for 20 minutes before announcing there was nothing they could see wrong.

So it's all in my head, except when I drove away from the garage and coasted along for a second, guess what? Knock knock, that's what!

As far as turning my stereo up, the speakers are fooked if you apply any bass/volume, so I'm just gonna ignore it.

Edited 18 February, 201016 yr by myjalopy

Mine does exactly the same, garage say they can find nothing wrong either ,driving me nuts!

Might change the strut mounts though see if it helps.

I have considered the possibility that it may be struts themselves, any thoughts?

Oh and the screen ****es water in too even though it's sealed on both sides and at the top.good news id I managed to stop the sunroof leaking by removing it and the tatty seal Skoda use and putting a bead of silicone on before reassembling.

Mine does exactly the same, garage say they can find nothing wrong either ,driving me nuts!

Might change the strut mounts though see if it helps.

I have considered the possibility that it may be struts themselves, any thoughts?

Oh and the screen ****es water in too even though it's sealed on both sides and at the top.good news id I managed to stop the sunroof leaking by removing it and the tatty seal Skoda use and putting a bead of silicone on before reassembling.

I thought of replacing the whole struts too, but decided to go with the cheaper option first. New top rubbers. It made SOME difference. Have a look through this post for an easy way to do it, sent by felicia16v.

In any case, the garage today checked the struts apparently and said they were fine.

I don't have a SR, so no leaks there!

Edited 18 February, 201016 yr by myjalopy

I have little confidence in garages I'm afraid, so when weather gets warmer I will do check it all myself inc changing top mounts

I appreciate this thread is a bit dated, but would like to mention it was a great help today when i had to do the same job. Big up to Felicia16v for the tip on replacing the rubber mount in situ, was ten mins to do! Flick also got a new nearside wishbone in the process as the balljoint was cattled, and the knock is very definitely gone! the strut on the nearside now has 2mm clearance at the top, and evidently the offside needs doing as it has near enough 8mm, but no knocking evident :no:

Cheers for the help guys!

Out of interest, is the method for doing them in situ only for the rubber bushes or can you do the bearings this way too?

I would think once you've used the car's weight as a spring compressor you can do everything at the top, bearings included.

Bonus points for old thread resurrection, mind!

ha thanks, nothing like resurrecting the old. That being said I reckon with the frequency fellys (in my experience) need top mounts doing its worthy of being a sticky. I'm almost tempted to do a guide. Think I'm going to give the above a go. had one side done a little while ago but now the others noisy so might just do both together and even things out a bit!

ha thanks, nothing like resurrecting the old. That being said I reckon with the frequency fellys (in my experience) need top mounts doing its worthy of being a sticky. I'm almost tempted to do a guide. Think I'm going to give the above a go. had one side done a little while ago but now the others noisy so might just do both together and even things out a bit!

I did mine the hard way and turns out they were OK. The noise is still there, I've just got used to it

Hi guys, I have been searching the net for a solution to a problem I am having with my Felicia top mounts and stumbled across this post. Basically, my Felicia 1.9D estate failed the MOT on the top mount on the nearside but I decided to change both while I was at it. I got both struts off and stripped down no problem, but then I noticed that the new rubber mounts were different to mine :(

The new ones are a different profile altogether, but the main problem is that they are thicker so when you bolt it all back together, the plates tighten onto the rubber so it cannot turn at all. If you do try and turn the plates, it just undoes or tightens the nut (depending on which way you turn it). The new ones just dont seem to match the profile of the top mount plates that I have on my car. The only thing i can think is that I have complete aftermarket top mount assemblies which use a different profile rubber :(

In the photos, my original ones are on the left, and the replacement ones (which seem to be identical to every other replacement one I can find) are on the right.

http://briskoda.net/forums/gallery/image/920-skoda-mount-1jpg/

http://briskoda.net/forums/gallery/image/921-skoda-mount-2jpg/

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers, Andy

Your original ones look just like mine did when they came out.....squashed! cant remember exactly how i did it now, but they did fit :yes:

Your original ones look just like mine did when they came out.....squashed! cant remember exactly how i did it now, but they did fit :yes:

Has anyone got a picture of their old mounts so I can compare mine with them, because I cannot believe that they would deform to that extent. They look like totally different parts to me. The centre bore is a different size and they are a totally different shape altogether.