Central Locking problems?

[cliver]

Right

I have been having trouble with my Drivers door not locking or unlocking unless you turn the key in the lock.

Some times it would work and others not.

I finally had enough today so I ripped the door apart.

Removing the door card is easy.

On the drivers door handle you need to prise out the inner part with a flat head screw driver, then the window switches just pull up and un clip(a bit of force is needed)

under there there is 5 or 6 X screws that need to come out and 3 Large X screws holding the bracket to the door.

then around the edges there are 7 hex screws and one behind the mirror adj stalk.

then just lift it off the door.

use a blunt ish knife to remove the insulation

This is the box you are after, note the connector, it fills with water and has no where to run away,.

The clip here pulls up and the connector pulls out at the same time

This is what I found:

I used some contact spray on it and it worked a treat.

Make sure you check this too!

the movement from winding the window up n down over the years has done this:

Sorted lol

Then some double side tape to put the sponge back on.

then replace the door card making sure you clip the handle cable round and there is a metal bit that needs to go in a plastic gully behind the handle to take the tension. If not the door wont open.

I also sorted my TB and thanks to Fatty5000 for sortin a gasket for me.

now the car runs smooth, also dont try running the car with the IC to TB pipe off lol as the car will cut out so as to not damage the engine lol.

I crapped myself when it ran rough I thought Id buggered it but after a few secs it flattened out and now is ace!

billy :p

[cliver]

Many thanks for your info.My door lock LED was on all the time and my battery had gone flat (LEDs dont use any current but the corrosion was probably causing a high resistant voltage leak) My connector plug was corroded similar to yours.I cleaned it all up .now working ok.Note be careful with the connector pins in the window motor they bend easily... use a mirror to check all three rows of pins are straight before you refit connector plug

Cliver (2003 TDi estate)

[l a ray]

OK pulled the female connector out to find its got about four of the pins corroded and snapped off in it. lots of water all around

so both the loom and motor unit knackered, can anybody tell me can the black unit on the motor be detached to fit a new one

or does it have to be a complete new window motor as the motor works fine its just the connections that are all buggered

many thanks Larry

[SnailUK]

Question.

When you guys have this problem, did you notice your door lock move at all?

I've got the same problem, and i can see my door pin twitch when i press the button, leading me to think its the motor, rather than this connector....

[150HP&counting]

OK pulled the female connector out to find its got about four of the pins corroded and snapped off in it. lots of water all around

so both the loom and motor unit knackered, can anybody tell me can the black unit on the motor be detached to fit a new one

or does it have to be a complete new window motor as the motor works fine its just the connections that are all buggered

many thanks Larry

Hiya mate,

I am not entirely sure, but what i do know is that Bickerton skoda, showed me all what they had to change (all wiring loom and the male/ female control unit and the circular window motor) and that included the circular part of the window motor, so am guessing its a complete unit.

Total cost on the invoice for these were £291 inc vat needless to say i had a rather large bill in the end

good luck

lee

[BigD.]

Hi,

I have the same problem on my Mk 1 VRS. (thanks to billy2981 for the excellent pictures) I took the door apart and found the usual corrosion, one of the pins has corroded off and the connecter looks pretty rough, I took the car into a local VW specialist who did a fault code and confirmed the CCU as being the problem but he was not able to do the work as he could not code the new one to the car? and I would have to take it into a main dealer, can anyone confirm this as I am sure that I had read on here of people changing the CCU themselves?

Thanks in advance,

D

[SnailUK]

Total cost on the invoice for these were £291 inc vat needless to say i had a rather large bill in the end

good luck

lee

Thats about the same amount i just paid for motor and door loom.

Just a pity i then had a couple of hours labour in top of that.

What idiot did the internal door design on the skoda?

[Funkoid]

Did you reseal the door with anything, would it be worth putting a small hole in the casing of the ccu in order to let it drain?

[Funkoid]

... well i replaced my control unit, 'lights on' open door alert now works but the remote fob drivers door central locking and heated mirror are still out of action :( Don't know whether to get a new loom or a lock and mirror glass?!

Edited 30 August, 2010 by Funkoid

[bogstandard]

Been having trouble with this myself...

Keyfob locks and unlocks all doors except the rear passenger door. Took the card off today to have a look.

No corrosion on either the door lock unit or the one shown here http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu221/claytarget_god/DSC00447.jpg

While the card was off, I tried the key fob and it worked a couple of times then nothing (rest of car still working fine though) - the noise seemed to come from the actual lock part (green bit). Could it just be the lock that has gone bye-bye? Anyone know how much a replacement will be and how easy to do DIY?

No other issues associated with this problem (i.e. internal lights, wing mirrors etc work fine).

Thanks in advance!

[STSKODA]

the wiring loom is pretty fragile on octy - i would try that first

unlikely to be anything else tbh

[bogstandard]

Been having trouble with this myself...

Keyfob locks and unlocks all doors except the rear passenger door. Took the card off today to have a look.

No corrosion on either the door lock unit or the one shown here http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu221/claytarget_god/DSC00447.jpg

While the card was off, I tried the key fob and it worked a couple of times then nothing (rest of car still working fine though) - the noise seemed to come from the actual lock part (green bit). Could it just be the lock that has gone bye-bye? Anyone know how much a replacement will be and how easy to do DIY?

No other issues associated with this problem (i.e. internal lights, wing mirrors etc work fine).

Thanks in advance!

Crazy cars...

Noticed that my drivers window was not one touch any more and my door LED had stopped working the other night. :(

Whipped the drivers door card off today, no corrosion on the plug but gave a blast of electrical cleaner. Put it all back together and now it all works fine. Don't know what happened, but I'm glad it did!

Edited 6 November, 2010 by bogstandard

[HaKi]

I do exact same like on photos .. it was water inside connector and rust. after I do all drivers door still don't working :( its look like motor gone ?! or central unit ?!

what you suggest ? maybe its need some restart of central lock

also drivers mirror glass don't working moving..

Edited 15 November, 2010 by HaKi

[BenR]

I'm suffering from the same problems on my 2003 Octavia. It's a pain, in an an otherwise lovely car.

About a year ago these electrics suddenly stopped working:

headlight alert sound

driver's door courtesy light operation

zapped locking on driver's door (others can be zapped and driver's door locks manually)

driver's side wing mirror adjustment (and probably heating)

Main dealer diagnostics only showed driver's wing mirror heating fault. I was told the window motor+ccu unit would need to be replaced, €280 part + fitting. The faults weren't much of a problem — I got used to manually locking the driver's door, and the rest were not serious so I've been living with it. Not as nice as a fully working car, but no big deal either.

Couple of days ago the real fun started! All windows open one morning, then opening while driving, together with central lock clicking and driver's door LED on constantly — in the rain, catching a flight, wonderful timing. I disconnect the battery in the long stay car-park. Once back, the drivers window does a 'Herbie' for me, opening and closing, part opening then fully opening then part closing etc.

I bite the bullet and buy the part. Discover my tame mechanic is in Australia for the next month, and today set-to with the help of the great instructions from billy 2981 — thanks — and others.

Yep, water pours out of the very corroded terminal, and three pins are broken. Why did they get that bit of design so wrong!

I fit the ccu only (to save removing the window motor), using a shaving mirror to see to detach the clips on the inside. Clean up the socket on the loom, dry it with a blow fire, and give it a blast of WD40. Check the loom going through the pillar and inside where it connects. A bit wet in the pillar-door rubber but otherwise all OK. A little abrasion next to the window cable, as billy2981's pic, but less. I plug it all together and the spontaneous window opening and lit LED are solved, but the original list of faults persist. I try a multimetter on the loom socket and find there is a little shorting between a couple of the corroded connection sockets. New loom is €160. Can't manage that. I wrap plastic and tape around the ccu-loom junction and put it all back together.

A helpful guy in the parts dept explains that their mechanic fixes the looms, by attaching another terminal socket (he says several). Unfortunately mechanic is also away on holiday so I'm not able to pick his brains on that one.

Anyone managed to fix the socket on the loom? Any ideas where I could get a clean socket… and how to fix to shortened wires?

Got a feeling I'll have to live with the other faults again. Shame — I was hoping it would be my compensation for shelling out for the window motor!

Just realised I could use mini junction-box to splice on a new socket, if it had some trailing wires, to the old loom. But where to get the socket? And would that actually fix everything?!

Cheers, Ben

[chrisxxr1]

Maplin's do a lot of electrical connection stuff. My 53 octy has the exact same problems, might wait for warmer weather to tackle this one

[billy2981]

If the prob is like mine mate you dont wanna leave it as the pins are very thin and wont take long to rot away. soon as it starts playing up I would look. dosnt take that long.

good luck mate,

sure its something and nothing

billy

[Guest]

Been living with this problem for some time now but reading this thread has given me a spur on to get it sorted ( provided it don't mean getting my pants pulled down for the big wedge solution ) Had a look before but thought the problem lay in the wiring passing down the rubber connector betweenthe door and pillar

Cheers Billy for the insight.

Edited 4 March, 2012 by Guest

[richm_vrs]

Realise this is an old thread but seeing as I used it the other day thought others might be doing the same still too and could save a lot of money if they found a broken pin in the connector (as I did). I had a drivers door which wouldn't lock via the key fob. Also the battery kept going flat which seems to have stopped now.

On dismantling the door as described earlier in this thread I pulled of the connector off the control unit to find plenty of corrosion and a broken pin (bottom middle row in this case). The still attached unit side of the connector will come off. It's a bit of a fiddle to get the clips off ... I used a mirror to see behind it for that bit. It slides out in the south-westerly direction looking at inside of the door north being up. Once it's off you can look down through it and see the other side of the pins coming through the connector and into the circuit board. I cut a square of plastic (Stanley knife) away above where the pins come through into the plastic box. Then soldered a wire onto the other side of the broken pin. It's a tricky solder on the pin I broke as it was in the middle but once I bought a decent soldering iron (old iron one wasn't generating much heat due to age) it took 30 seconds. The wire sticks out the hole cut earlier and I then patched directly into the corresponding wire in the loom. Then I sealed the whole I cut in the black box around the sticking out wire. Reassembled everything and problem solved.

Not saying you SHOULD do this but it worked for me and cost me a new soldering iron only...which I will use anyway. Attempt it at your own risk. (Disclaimer bit)

[bluelinerobbo]

Hi I have the same problem but a pin has corded away on the box/motor and need to know what it is called so I can order one.

also my right hand mirror does not move with the controller bur with it in the r position it moves the left mirror will sorting the corrosion fix this many thanks

[chortle]

I've changed door lock and window motor/door controller still not getting drivers door to lock loom doesn't look corroded any other thoughts?   

[polophonic]

Apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead (there are many other threads about driver's door control unit corrosion and central locking problems). I thought some of you may be interested in my 'fix' of this problem. Essentially I've bypassed the faulty connector.

 

Two pins had completely corroded from my driver's door control unit. Using a Dremel I cut away a 2cm square of the control unit immediately above where the pins joined the PCB. I then soldered two wires to the corroded pin terminals. I then patched these wires into the corresponding wires in the loom. I'm currently driving around with all this temporarily held up with tape and patch cables. Once I'm happy I will weather proof it all. Everything works 100% except the key fob will not unlock the driver's door. The driver's door will unlock using the central locking control panel on the driver's door. I think there is high resistance either in my hacked wiring, or in the loom somewhere else.

 

If anyone is interested, I can post photos of the fix. By the sounds of it this could have saved me hundreds of pounds. The only expense was some pennies for solder and wire and a few hours of swearing

[FUBAR]

Apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead (there are many other threads about driver's door control unit corrosion and central locking problems). I thought some of you may be interested in my 'fix' of this problem. Essentially I've bypassed the faulty connector.

 

Two pins had completely corroded from my driver's door control unit. Using a Dremel I cut away a 2cm square of the control unit immediately above where the pins joined the PCB. I then soldered two wires to the corroded pin terminals. I then patched these wires into the corresponding wires in the loom. I'm currently driving around with all this temporarily held up with tape and patch cables. Once I'm happy I will weather proof it all. Everything works 100% except the key fob will not unlock the driver's door. The driver's door will unlock using the central locking control panel on the driver's door. I think there is high resistance either in my hacked wiring, or in the loom somewhere else.

 

If anyone is interested, I can post photos of the fix. By the sounds of it this could have saved me hundreds of pounds. The only expense was some pennies for solder and wire and a few hours of swearing

 

One of my pins was corroded so bad when I cut the yellow rubber crap at bottom away I only found like 1mm left, soldering on a new pin to that didn't work (worked for a couple of days) so I left it as was. Now my new issue is that as my car has central locking not remote central locking I NEED to use the key every time to open doors anyway, but my drivers door lock which was always stiffer, is now almost seized solid so I have to open another door and reach in pull drivers door handle to unlock then go round get in and push the button down to lock in the same manor when leaving the car............. FML! New lock barrel should arrive today to see if that at least helps. Some pics of your fix would be good, I couldn't see a way of taking the control box apart to get at the rest of the pins where they go into the board and solder a wire on there. The pin in mine that's gone seems to be the most common one, do you know which wire in the loom it goes to? 

 

 

 

[Carrick]

Thank you Fubar you have saved me a lot of grief. My Octavia does not have a fob. Central locking is by key in the drivers door. Corroded pin issue resolved. The front passenger door still not operating. The other three doors are. Led on drivers door not working.  

[FUBAR]

Thank you Fubar you have saved me a lot of grief. My Octavia does not have a fob. Central locking is by key in the drivers door. Corroded pin issue resolved. The front passenger door still not operating. The other three doors are. Led on drivers door not working.  

 

My drivers door lock barrel got stiffer and stiffer until I felt the key would break if I tried any more force..... Just had to change the barrel got a replacement ebay job for a tenner delivered with 2 keys. Down side is drivers door now has a different key to the rest, but it works perfectly, so so smooth! My Octavia is a 2001 in NI but it is an ROI spec one as last/first owner from new bought it via a dealer in ROI when it was a lot cheaper to do so for tax reasons. Mine is an Ambient which in comparison to UK model Irish one has no rear wiper, no air con and no remote central locking :( at this stage that's just a lot less to go wrong realistically I suppose, 15 years of that key being used in door, I can't complain as that's some usage! 

 

Edited 22 February, 2016 by FUBAR

[Carrick]

Key in lock opens all doors except the front passenger door when key used front passenger door all doors open correctly any suggestions?'.