Hi Steve, you make an interesting point about most of us having a slow drive to our homes or work place at the end maybe of a fast drive. This as you suggest does cool the turbo. No problem. The advise to idle the engine after a fast run is less important now than it used to be, but it is stil advised in many car manuals if you check. Particularly on petrol engines with a turbo. They run substantially hotter than a diesel turbo, with the oil reaching massive temps compared to the diesel engines. The idle advise is mainly referring to cars that have been high speed cruising on a motorway for long periods and that might, for example, stop at a service area where there is no 'slow drive' before switch off. Under those circumstances if you REGULARLY failed to idle, you would 'fry' some oil into carbon in the bearing chambers and pipes leading to reduced oil flow over time. It's not something that suddenly just happens and the turbo goes bang. It's a cumulative effect that can be avoided if everyone reads their manual...but sadly most people just don't read their manuals.

+1

Just out of curiosity what oil temps are VRS owners finding is a normal operating range?

Just out of curiosity what oil temps are VRS owners finding is a normal operating range?

only time I have looked so far, it was 88 celcius.

Never above 89_^oC for me.

Oil temps above sound about right.

I wouldn't be overly concerned unless it rockets up.

I've got my own question i'd like to throw in if I can regarding DSG..

A DSG doesn't have a torque converter that can withstand churning against itself while the car is braked in D. Instead it has two 'wet' oil clutches, one for each shaft of the transmission. So wear on these clutches is more likely to be promoted while braked in D than with a torque converter automatic.'

My mechanical expertise is pretty much limited to checking tire pressures, but this did interest me as my local dealer said he mostly doesn't use neutral and just uses the foot brake during normal driving. This post was from 30/01/2010 is the vRS DSG modified from this or still a concern?

Skoda use two different types of DSG from VAG, a 6 speed wet clutch design usually fitted to high torque 2.0T petrols and diesels and a 7 speed dry clutch design fitted to models with less torque like the smaller CRdiesels and TSI petrols. Sitting at a juntion in D with the foot brake on disengages the clutches so is fine, as soon as the footbrake is released the clutch engages.

The VRS has the 7 speed dry clutch gearbox so it's very important to either hold it on the footbrake at junctions or put it in Nuetral/Park.

I've driven both types of DSG and the wet clutch version is smoother and less jerky at low speed but the dry clutch version is crisper and more efficient.

Some VAG DSG models have auto hold which means as soon as you stop you can release the footbrake and the car sits there with the brakes still on and clutches dissengaged until you touch the accelerator and then the brakes release and clutch engages.

I have this on my Passat and it works great. Not seen this on Skoda's though.

Cheers

Lee

Edited 12 February, 201115 yr by logiclee

the hill hold is standard on the fabia vRS II

the hill hold is standard on the fabia vRS II

hill hold but not auto hold.

Hill hold stops you rolling back on a hill when you take your foot of the brake pedal and transfer it to the accelerator. At the traffic lights you still have to either hold the car on the brakes or put it in Neutral and use the handbrake.

With auto hold you can pull upto a junction or traffic lights and stop, you can then come off the brakes with the gearbox in gear but the brakes will stay on and clutches still dissengaged as if you have your foot on the brakes. The car wont move unless you press the accellerator. Just means you can always leave the box in 1, D or S but you don't need to sit with your foot on the brake at junctions/lights.

Cheers

Lee

Oil temps above sound about right.

I wouldn't be overly concerned unless it rockets up.

Interesting.....my diesel Golf will go up to 103 -104 degrees on the motorway!

Skoda use two different types of DSG from VAG, a 6 speed wet clutch design usually fitted to high torque 2.0T petrols and diesels and a 7 speed dry clutch design fitted to models with less torque like the smaller CRdiesels and TSI petrols. Sitting at a juntion in D with the foot brake on disengages the clutches so is fine, as soon as the footbrake is released the clutch engages.

The VRS has the 7 speed dry clutch gearbox so it's very important to either hold it on the footbrake at junctions or put it in Nuetral/Park.

I've driven both types of DSG and the wet clutch version is smoother and less jerky at low speed but the dry clutch version is crisper and more efficient.

Some VAG DSG models have auto hold which means as soon as you stop you can release the footbrake and the car sits there with the brakes still on and clutches dissengaged until you touch the accelerator and then the brakes release and clutch engages.

I have this on my Passat and it works great. Not seen this on Skoda's though.

Cheers

Lee

Thanks for that. Put my mind at rest, had visions of cooking clutches on my rush hour commute.

Oil temps above sound about right.

I wouldn't be overly concerned unless it rockets up.

Where are you guys deriving your oil temperatures from? Haven't got my VRS yet but thought there was only a cooling fluid temperature gauge on the dash board. Personally i would expect the oil temperature to rise to a far higher temperature than about 80 or 90 deg C, but would not be concerned if i saw 150+ deg C. I don't think there is an oil cooler fitted to these cars so the oil will run hot (approx 450 deg C in the combustion chamber after all plus the temperatures derived from the turbo and supercharger), and provided a premium quality lubricant is used, it will be more than capable of withstanding those sort of temps . Also, you will want a fair proportion of heat in the oil so as to reduce its viscosity and thus reduce internal viscous drag (which increaes fuel consumption). This is one of the reasons why you need to drive relatively kindly after start up to allow the fluids to warm through although again with modern premium grade lubricants they are much better than they used to be.

Where are you guys deriving your oil temperatures from? Haven't got my VRS yet but thought there was only a cooling fluid temperature gauge on the dash board. Personally i would expect the oil temperature to rise to a far higher temperature than about 80 or 90 deg C, but would not be concerned if i saw 150+ deg C. I don't think there is an oil cooler fitted to these cars so the oil will run hot (approx 450 deg C in the combustion chamber after all plus the temperatures derived from the turbo and supercharger), and provided a premium quality lubricant is used, it will be more than capable of withstanding those sort of temps . Also, you will want a fair proportion of heat in the oil so as to reduce its viscosity and thus reduce internal viscous drag (which increaes fuel consumption). This is one of the reasons why you need to drive relatively kindly after start up to allow the fluids to warm through although again with modern premium grade lubricants they are much better than they used to be.

the oil temp is in the multifunction display, just scroll past average fuel ,range, average speed ect...

I suspect they do have an oil radiator due to the oil being used to cool the turbo though I've not found a propper diagram for the oil cooling system yet. Also the oil seams to take about 15-20m to climb to what most people are saying is a normal operating range

ok thanks , more experiences to come when i get my car. but really with modern oil technology, running high temperatures is not the issue it used to be. greater use of synthetics in oil formulations has made them more robust and has helped to extend servicing intervals.

One thing to note though, is that in a high performance engine, and in this classification i include that in the VRS, i would not advocate mixing oil brands. Whilst it is rare, there have been occasions where the mixing of different oil brands can lead to some un wanted interactions which may cause harm to the engine. If possible, stick with a single oil brand between servicing (my experience with most dealers (although i do like the term stealers i see being used in this forum) is that they will sell you a litre of oil when you have the vehicle serviced) and avoid any potential issues.

Edited 13 February, 201115 yr by JerryT

I suspect they do have an oil radiator due to the oil being used to cool the turbo though I've not found a propper diagram for the oil cooling system yet. Also the oil seams to take about 15-20m to climb to what most people are saying is a normal operating range

Not an oil radiator as such, not an oil to air one anyhow but they do have an oil to water cooler.

If it like the diesels, if you look under the oil filter housing you can see the oil cooler as a square box with pipes coming out of it for the oil and cooling water.

Agreed most turbos now are engineered to be able to take some abuse from not allowing to cool after a long run, but you should still allow a bit of time at low load like driving up your cul-de-sac. You should still allow a bit of idling time to allow the turbo to slow down, remember these little beasties can reach speeds in excess of 200,000 rpm when at maximum boost and you wouldn't shut down your engine from high speed now would you!

Ian

Vauxhall has been doing this on the Z20LET (2 litre Turbo Ecotec) for years, my Y Reg one did at least.

This thread has mentioned DSG gearboxes and I have one question. Can you left-foot brake with a DSG, i.e. press brake with throttle still pressed or does the ECU kill the throttle, as they do with most electronic throttles?

Edited 14 February, 201115 yr by Jim H

This thread has mentioned DSG gearboxes and I have one question. Can you left-foot brake with a DSG, i.e. press brake with throttle still pressed or does the ECU kill the throttle, as they do with most electronic throttles?

Kills the power if you left foot brake.

Cheers

Lee

Thanks, I had a feeling it would.

If it like the diesels, if you look under the oil filter housing you can see the oil cooler as a square box with pipes coming out of it for the oil and cooling water.

Agreed most turbos now are engineered to be able to take some abuse from not allowing to cool after a long run, but you should still allow a bit of time at low load like driving up your cul-de-sac. You should still allow a bit of idling time to allow the turbo to slow down, remember these little beasties can reach speeds in excess of 200,000 rpm when at maximum boost and you wouldn't shut down your engine from high speed now would you!

Ian

Remember a standard engine is electronically strangled to minimise stress on components and extend the service life of the car (as well as to meet ever more strict emmission legislation). A standard car therefore would not be putting its turbo under particularly high stress; probably not at the high end of what it can cope with anyway. Such wear and tear would take a long time to destroy a turbo, particularly on a well maintained car. If it went early in a cars life I'd say that would be down more to bad luck and it probably would have failed regardless of treatment.

This sort of thing would be of much greater concern if you took say a 1.6 CR diesel and remapped the life out of it. Boost pressure would increase, putting greater strain on the turbo (and the rest of the engine) with more likelihood of problems, particularly if driven like an idiot.

I'd probably be treating my Golf 2.0 CR 140 with a little more respect than I do now if it was running nearly 200hp as a result of a remap, in standard form dont see the point. It's under warranty and if it goes wrong it goes wrong, i'll let VW fix it.