Right. My new 16" steels and winter tyres have arrived. I have a trolley jack and a basic socket set but no torque wrench. I'm aware that it's far too early to change them now (though I might do a dry run at the weekend) but what do I need apart from a torque wrench that can do 120Nm in order to safely change the wheels over when the time comes?

Ta in advance.

That's all I'd use. Machine Mart has some good value torque wrenches - just get one where 120Nm is middle of it's range (eg 84-210 range, not 120-360...)

And recheck torques after a few days.

Is it too obvious to say torque the wheels fully only when on the ground, not jacked up.....?

You basically do not need anything else other than the torque wrench, but either a lugnut wrench (cross shaped) or an impact driver makes it much easier. The impact driver is useful for other things and more expensive. The lugnut wrench is not realy used elsewhere.

Some might argue that the torquewrench can be done without, but..............

Long Arm, Rubber Hammer (incase it wont come off or just anoyed) and brute force ;P always worked for me

You don't actually need the torque wrench either; the arm length on the supplied wheelbrace is about right for most people to get a "close enough" torque setting.

Oh and you won't crash and die by leaving real tyres on a car when the air temperature is below 7C either.

Ta muchly.

It is not too obvious to say that the torque wrench should be used once the wheel is back on the ground.

I did ok last year on the normal tyres, but with a few more slidey moments than I'd have liked (all at very low speed, and I think largely down to the Haldex moving too much power to the back wheels on slow slippery corners) so I figured for the cost of the excess on the insurance I might as well have the proper ones just in case. Generally I can work from home if it's proper snowy, but I'd like to be sure I won't be completely stuffed. I'm well aware that opinion is divided on winter tyres (possibly a slight understatement there!).

I've spotted a few decent-looking torque wrenches at Tooled-Up for around the £30-50 mark - Sealey and Draper and such.

Ta muchly.

It is not too obvious to say that the torque wrench should be used once the wheel is back on the ground.

I did ok last year on the normal tyres, but with a few more slidey moments than I'd have liked (all at very low speed, and I think largely down to the Haldex moving too much power to the back wheels on slow slippery corners) so I figured for the cost of the excess on the insurance I might as well have the proper ones just in case. Generally I can work from home if it's proper snowy, but I'd like to be sure I won't be completely stuffed. I'm well aware that opinion is divided on winter tyres (possibly a slight understatement there!).

I've spotted a few decent-looking torque wrenches at Tooled-Up for around the £30-50 mark - Sealey and Draper and such.

try screwfix!!

You don't actually need the torque wrench either; the arm length on the supplied wheelbrace is about right for most people to get a "close enough" torque setting.

Oh and you won't crash and die by leaving real tyres on a car when the air temperature is below 7C either.

+1

The original wheel wrench is designed for the average person of average strength but they do assume that the bolts are not rusted or seized to the drive flange . Most people don't carry torque wrenches in the boot in case of a flat tyre.

Depending on whether the wheel bolts are rusty or the wheel is corroded to the hub/disc, you may need additional tools to break any bolt thread corrosion . Most supermarkets / motor accessory shops sell telescopic wheel wrenches quite cheaply that can be extended to give greater leverage to undo stubbon /seized bolts. These extended wrenches should not be used for tightening as the extra length may over toque the bolts.

You should take this oportunity to wire brush any rust from the bolt threads , apply a liitle copper anti-seize paste to the bolt threads ( keep underside of bolt head and wheel bolt seating clean) and clean the disc side face and hub location diameter and then apply a bit of copper anti-seize to these surfaces.

You shouldn't experience any seized bolts or seized alloy wheel if this is done properly.

Edited 19 September, 201114 yr by vwcabriolet1971

+1

The original wheel wrench is designed for the average person of average strength but they do assume that the bolts are not rusted or seized to the drive flange . Most people don't carry torque wrenches in the boot in case of a flat tyre.

Depending on whether the wheel bolts are rusty or the wheel is corroded to the hub/disc, you may need additional tools to break any bolt thread corrosion . Most supermarkets / motor accessory shops sell telescopic wheel wrenches quite cheaply that can be extended to give greater leverage to undo stubbon /seized bolts. These extended wrenches should not be used for tightening as the extra length may over toque the bolts.

You should take this oportunity to wire brush any rust from the bolt threads , apply a liitle copper anti-seize paste to the bolt threads ( keep underside of bolt head and wheel bolt seating clean) and clean the disc side face and hub location diameter and then apply a bit of copper anti-seize to these surfaces.

You shouldn't experience any seized bolts or seized alloy wheel if this is done properly.

+1. As Ken has already said, you don't *need* a torque wrench: Good firm pressure on the standard wrench is not far out. Torque wrench is better, though.

You should take this oportunity to wire brush any rust from the bolt threads , apply a liitle copper anti-seize paste to the bolt threads ( keep underside of bolt head and wheel bolt seating clean) and clean the disc side face and hub location diameter and then apply a bit of copper anti-seize to these surfaces.

Ta for the tips.

I like to make up a stud with a thread matching the wheel bolts and insert this in the topmost thread in the hub before mounting the new wheel. Use this to hang the wheel on while the remaining bolts are aligned and screwed in, then remove it and replace with the last bolt.

I find it increasingly a struggle to position wider wheels when replacing them, and it gets much worse if you're struggling to do it when you're tired and it's raining. I cut a slot in the end of the stud to aid removal with a screwdriver if necessary.

I agree about not needing a torque wrench; just tighten opposite bolts evenly.

This wheel brace from Sealey makes life easier. On the road, I carry an extending brace with a range of sockets to fit other people's cars. (I once had to replace a wheel for a friend using only a cheap 3/8 drive ratchet and socket I had with me; it worked, but I destroyed the tools in the process.)

http://lyxus.net/ikim

Helps a lot!

http://lyxus.net/ikim

Helps a lot!

That looks good. Pretty silly question but they don't show it as fitting a Yeti. Can I assume from your comment that it does? :think: :wonder:

I'll stake my reputation on it!

I have one I bought for my last Golf - it fits fine!

That looks good. Pretty silly question but they don't show it as fitting a Yeti. Can I assume from your comment that it does? :think: :wonder:

It will fit the Yeti, the thread size is correct - 14mm

I am in favour of using copaslip (or similar high melting point anti seize compound) when fitting wheel bolts but when you do so you should be careful about torque settings. The figure given assumes dry fittings and when lubricant is used there is a risk of overtightening.

Not critical with a high tensile bolt into cast steel with a large thread size but a real source of potential trouble with alloy or with small thread sizes.

I use an extending wheel wrench and just make sure it is tight. Done me for 41 years, although I have and use torque wrenches for almost all work on my bike. I have two-low and high range.

I am in favour of using copaslip (or similar high melting point anti seize compound) when fitting wheel bolts but when you do so you should be careful about torque settings. The figure given assumes dry fittings and when lubricant is used there is a risk of overtightening.

Not critical with a high tensile bolt into cast steel with a large thread size but a real source of potential trouble with alloy or with small thread sizes.

Indeed. On a wheel bolt, it's not so critical as they can take huge torque loadings: I once broke a couple of sockets when a tyre place overtightened mine years ago.

Right. My new 16" steels and winter tyres have arrived. I have a trolley jack and a basic socket set but no torque wrench. I'm aware that it's far too early to change them now (though I might do a dry run at the weekend) but what do I need apart from a torque wrench that can do 120Nm in order to safely change the wheels over when the time comes?

Ta in advance.

Forget the torque wrench, get a decent wheel brace, that will do the job JUST RIGHT, and a decent scissor jack.

As long as the wheel nuts are evenly 'tight' then you're home & dry.

I got my new winter wheels on today, The only tool I used was a cup to take the free coffee my dealer offered

while they changed the wheels.

Sweet

I got my new winter wheels on today

I was about to ask if you were being a bit premature, then saw your location.

I reckon mine'll go on in November most likely.

Anyways, thanks for all the advice chaps. I have acquired a torque wrench, a breaker bar and a 1/2" socket set. The tool-joy overtook me.

Doh - double-posted.

Edited 21 September, 201114 yr by Sporky McGuffin

I was about to ask if you were being a bit premature, then saw your location.

I reckon mine'll go on in November most likely.

Anyways, thanks for all the advice chaps. I have acquired a torque wrench, a breaker bar and a 1/2" socket set. The tool-joy overtook me.

Well you are not too wrong, here in Oslo they will not be needed for another month or two,

but I am off to a +4000 km trip to Nothern Norway, far north of the Artic Circle where I most

certanly will find snow on the roads.

And for your last statement, I do whole heartly agree, the joy of good tools are under estimated,

you can´t have too many tools, have you ever heard about a library with too many books?

Only one, where the civil engineer neglected to include their weight in the load calculations.

I am off to a +4000 km trip to Nothern Norway, far north of the Artic Circle

And completely and utterly off the thread topic :evil: ..........just wondered how far you were going. Got up to Nordkapp & Honningsvag a few years ago. Even swam across the Arctic Circle. Mind you I'm never ever going again in summer. The mozzies are just too much.

And completely and utterly off the thread topic :evil: ..........just wondered how far you were going. Got up to Nordkapp & Honningsvag a few years ago. Even swam across the Arctic Circle. Mind you I'm never ever going again in summer. The mozzies are just too much.

Going to Tromsø, the town I was born in.

A perfect town for Yetis in the winter, steep hills, very slippery icy roads.

My reason for buying a Yeti is very simple, I rented one last winter for a week visiting Tromsø, really awful weather and the car is by

far the best 4x4 I have driven in those conditions, and I have been driving 4x4s the last 40 years

The family was impressed too, my two boys are 192 and 195 cm long, and they had more than enough space in the rear

seats, very comfortable, they liked it better than my old Range Rover, and much better than the 3 defenders I have own.

A perfect car for Norway.