hi, at my last service i was told I would need new discs and pads in about 6 months, this time has come, rather then paying the garage I am considering having a go my self if it is not too difficult?

i have a 56 fabia 1.4tdi estate

I have watched a couple of vids on youtube and does not seem to hard

i will need to remove wheel, take of calipre? just one bolt? remove old disc, clean new discs and fit , remove old pads, push piston thingy back in? do I need to take the lid off the brake fluid? fit new pads...

is there any think i am missing? or should I really get someone who has done it before to do it for me?

i had a look on http://www.eurocarparts.com/ and they have 3 different sizes for the 56 1.4tdi estate! do I need to take the wheel of and measure the old discs or can anyone tell me what I would need?

or can anyone recommend any other shops online or ebay sellers?

Thanks,

Stu

well you have to start somewhere i guess, but you dont seem to be that clued up on it all.

Videos on youtube have probly been rehearsed and been off prior, as the reality can be snapped bolts, wrong parts, scraped knuckles etc!

ive never had any of my Fabia ones off before as both mine have came with new discs and pads anyway!

usualy its somthing like...

slacken off wheel nuts slightly

jack car off the ground on the correct jacking point

take off wheel nuts - remove wheel (usualy with a 17mm or 19mm socket)

remove caliper from the carrier, 2 screws i think 13mm, altho you can somtimes remove one from the bottom and slide the caliper off.

then remove the caliper carrier from the hub, also 2 screws.

then remove the 2 screws holding the disc onto the hub (should be torx screws) and it should all be off!

while the caliper is off you can squeeze the piston back into the caliper, a handy tool is welding grips to do this, or a large pair of pliers or the correct tool.

depending on how full the brake fluid reservoir is, you may need to take the cap off to let excess fluid out.

when replacing everything back on, remember to put some copper slip onto the brake pads, only on the side touching the caliper, and on the top and bottom parts of the pads to help them slide along and to stop them siezing up (if your not sure about the copper slip ask someone who does)

not much els i can say about refitting really, discs should be an easy fit back on, refit caliper carier and the top part of the caliper, fit new pads, fully fit the rest of the caliper, wheel on, press the brake pedal a few times and remember to test them before flying off down the street as the pedal may need to be pumped on and off a few times before they work.

That's basically a generic remove - refit of brake pads and discs, all cars are different and i only really work on peugeots (young apprentice at the garage) so was in two minds about posting this incase i get slaughterd for pointing you in the wrong direction.

I hope this helps, if not im sure someone els will be along soon to help you out.

Edited 18 March, 201214 yr by hutchysrs50

As above (i've not done the Furby yet but it won't be that different from the Octavia/Golf/Leon that I have done).

Tools you probably want to have to hand:

Torque Wrench

Calliper Winder : Not essential but makes the job easier especially on something like a Passat/Superb for the rears.

Axle stands : Always support the car with a stand.

Jack : Always lift the car with a jack, the one in the boot isn't amazing but it works well enough. Never work on a car supported by a jack only if you can possibly avoid it and if you have to keep your arms and legs well clear as if it fails you don't get any second chances.

Spanners - An inexpensive set of metric/imperial is a worthwhile investment.

Sockets & Torx/Allen bits : You could just buy a set of traditional Allen/Torx keys for less - doesn't have to be an expensive set but a short ratchet and 1/2" set with an extension bar is probably a good investment, i'd suggest a 3/8" set of Allen/Torx bits as the 10mm bits fir into a 10mm socket on the 1/4" set and will come with an adapter to 1/2". A 'cheap' 1/4" set for those tight occasions should give you everything you need for most mechanical jobs.

Work gloves : I love the smell of oil, petrol etc but trust me you want a pair of fitters gloves for brakes, they offer you a bit more protection and keep you clean.

If you've got access to all of the above you're set to save some money, things like the calliper tool aren't required but it's easier with it and they're not that expensive. Firstly you need the correct disc's and pads, checking the type of callipers you have fitted normally allows you to work it out and if you have pad wear sensors or not (useless invention), a little copper slip for the wheel nuts when they go back on to stop them seizing, a torque wrench that's ideally calibrated and some brake cleaner along with the key for your locking wheel nuts if you have them. A jack is for lifting, axle stands are for supporting, make sure you use them for the intended purpose as a jack can slip with lethal consequences. A calliper winder is a good investment at this stage as it avoids piston damage but you could easily use a bit of wood and a pry bar to force the piston back.

If the Furby has an anti judder calliper clip take a photo of the correct position prior to removal or refer back to the other side, always work on one side first and as pointed out above make sure you pump your brakes to move the piston forward before setting off.

Just out of curiosity, what is the mileage of your car for you to need new disks and pads? the reason behind my question is: My car is with 103 000 miles on original disks and I just (800 miles ago) replaced the pads in front for the first time. You must be riding your brakes real hard

hi, i am on 74k, it was on about 55k when i brought it, I would not say I drive the car hard, but no idea about the last owner, maybe the discs dont even need changing? what is a good indicator?

hi, i am on 74k, it was on about 55k when i brought it, I would not say I drive the car hard, but no idea about the last owner, maybe the discs dont even need changing? what is a good indicator?

Check the rear of each disc, you may get a shock as to how much of the face is actually not rusty. If there is a large lip at the edge they will probably be under the min thickness. if you have the original front discs they, almost certainly, will need changing.

I'd have a look in Aldi/Lidle for a micrometer, I got one for about £7 ,and it's enabled me to shut this sort of MOT place up . I' ve had this advisory on the front discs for a few years now. Last year on 55k, I replaced the front pads, with worst at 2mm .I then decided to check the disk. Simple way to do it is to use something to allow the jaws to close over the lip of the unworn section .I used a nut. Then Zero Mic. Mine were 20.5 =halfway between new (at 22mm ,for my engine type) and change ( 19 mm for my engine type) . Those figures come from Haynes.But IMHO, the 14.tdi could do with higher rated disks.I asked an RAC bloke ,who grinned, and said that th MOT man is possibly looking at the lip,rather than checking the disk thikness( which of couse he can't) , and seeing a lip ,stick on an advisory ,to protect their backs ( and IMHO, hoping that an owner wil just say "how much").Best cure is to remove lip .

The pads , at new =19.6mm, min 7mm( both figutres include backing plate .)

But caution ,I've noticed a few posts on here looking for info on the size/thread of the caliper bolts, as the threads were useless, and they wanted to fit a helicoil .

While i'm all in favour of checking a disc for thickness it's £40 for branded disc's and pads from my local factor for the mpi and the Leon is under £100 for front and rear, much like a tyre the limit is merely the point at which it stops being capable of passing and MOT and becomes unfit to be on the road, not the point that common sense would suggest you change them. You also change the fluid every 2 years irrespective for the few quid involved, well, unless you happen to work for Volksentre in Blyth who think it's fine to leave it for 6 years and are happy to tell you 'they don't do that here' and when asked why inform you they've had the odd seal blow on the rear cylinders ... £16 a pair for pattern parts and i'd rather they failed in a garage than an emergency stop but that's just me.

well you have to start somewhere i guess, but you dont seem to be that clued up on it all.

Videos on youtube have probly been rehearsed and been off prior, as the reality can be snapped bolts, wrong parts, scraped knuckles etc!

ive never had any of my Fabia ones off before as both mine have came with new discs and pads anyway!

usualy its somthing like...

slacken off wheel nuts slightly

jack car off the ground on the correct jacking point

take off wheel nuts - remove wheel (usualy with a 17mm or 19mm socket)

remove caliper from the carrier, 2 screws i think 13mm, altho you can somtimes remove one from the bottom and slide the caliper off.

then remove the caliper carrier from the hub, also 2 screws.

then remove the 2 screws holding the disc onto the hub (should be torx screws) and it should all be off!

while the caliper is off you can squeeze the piston back into the caliper, a handy tool is welding grips to do this, or a large pair of pliers or the correct tool.

depending on how full the brake fluid reservoir is, you may need to take the cap off to let excess fluid out.

when replacing everything back on, remember to put some copper slip onto the brake pads, only on the side touching the caliper, and on the top and bottom parts of the pads to help them slide along and to stop them siezing up (if your not sure about the copper slip ask someone who does)

not much els i can say about refitting really, discs should be an easy fit back on, refit caliper carier and the top part of the caliper, fit new pads, fully fit the rest of the caliper, wheel on, press the brake pedal a few times and remember to test them before flying off down the street as the pedal may need to be pumped on and off a few times before they work.

That's basically a generic remove - refit of brake pads and discs, all cars are different and i only really work on peugeots (young apprentice at the garage) so was in two minds about posting this incase i get slaughterd for pointing you in the wrong direction.

I hope this helps, if not im sure someone els will be along soon to help you out.

This completely correct, did my vRS ones a month ago. Took me about 4 hours to do all four brakes. And like you i was a complete novice, i did have my dad supervising though for help and tips

Ilmor

Pretty sure the caliper winder is essential for the rear end.. You can damage things otherwise.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm talking nonsense though.

Pretty sure the caliper winder is essential for the rear end.. You can damage things otherwise.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm talking nonsense though.

If the rear are discs and pads, then a caliper rewind tool is needed. If the rear brakes and drum, then the rewind tool is not needed.

Man I go through pads and every 12-15k and disc's every 25k maybe

Whilst not sugesting you let discs/pads go to limit,it does sound a bit senless to change at half worn.Would you change a tyre at 50%?

On the MOT side, I've had a look at all the MOT'S on mine, even the one done when it was just over 2 years old ( thought that strange) and on that one there was an advisory on discs. That would be about 14k on the clock ,and 40k later the discs are just over half worn and brekes are good, until they get hot, and fade a little,so it's something I class as part of the car, and drive to avoid that.

On the topic of squeezing piston back, I've always pushed the pads back before taking off caliper, usually using a pair of cycle tyre levers ,on both pads on each side , keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cyl.

Whilst not suggesting you let discs/pads go to limit,it does sound a bit senseless to change at half worn.Would you change a tyre at 50%?

On the MOT side, I've had a look at all the MOT'S on mine, even the one done when it was just over 2 years old ( thought that strange) and on that one there was an advisory on discs. That would be about 14k on the clock ,and 40k later the discs are just over half worn and brakes are good, until they get hot, and fade a little,so it's something I class as part of the car, and drive to avoid that.

This is true, unlike tyres there is no minimum thickness of brake pad and they don't seam to loose performance as they wear down (unlike tyres), So unless they are metal to metal pads are fine. However it is normally advised to change them when they get very low. Discs can fail (or get an advisory) for excessive wear and/or corrosion.

This is true, unlike tyres there is no minimum thickness of brake pad and they don't seam to loose performance as they wear down (unlike tyres), So unless they are metal to metal pads are fine. However it is normally advised to change them when they get very low. Discs can fail (or get an advisory) for excessive wear and/or corrosion.

As I posted earlier ,there is a minimum advised pad thickness( something like 7mm ,including backing) . MOT blokes seem to panic if the discs show any lip,but they have no way of measuring the disc thickness. MAD ? There is also an an advised disc thickness= 19mm, where disc should be changed .

Whilst not sugesting you let discs/pads go to limit,it does sound a bit senless to change at half worn.Would you change a tyre at 50%? On the MOT side, I've had a look at all the MOT'S on mine, even the one done when it was just over 2 years old ( thought that strange) and on that one there was an advisory on discs. That would be about 14k on the clock ,and 40k later the discs are just over half worn and brekes are good, until they get hot, and fade a little,so it's something I class as part of the car, and drive to avoid that. On the topic of squeezing piston back, I've always pushed the pads back before taking off caliper, usually using a pair of cycle tyre levers ,on both pads on each side , keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cyl.

I'm not sure why an MOT would be done on a 2 year old car, perhaps an owner who was unsure of the law? The last time I had to do one early i'd purchased a bike that had been stolen and recovered after the insurance co. settled so was registered as a CAT D. The only damage was the lock barrel so imagine my surprise when my new insurer insisted on an MOT and IER. In your case if the car only did 7k a year in the first two it's possible that the advisory relates to the condition of the disc's and not wear. The disc's i've got on now were pretty corroded on the outer 1/4 (last owner did 2k a year for 11 years) and would have warranted an advisory, after a spirited drive they improved dramatically and a few thousand miles on you'd never know but as you say a lot of MOT testers prefer to cover themselves with an advisory for a number of reasons.

You're right if a disc is in good condition with nice even wear and minimal lipping then chuck another set of pads on but I tend to find that I end up taking the disc off to de-lip both sides and if they've seen a harsh winter with a load of salt that can be a fair bit of corrosion/lipping so i'll normally do the lip then opt for a set of pads with an abrasive layer to speed up the bedding in. That's £30 for EBC pads and a bit of work or £40 for disc's and pads from ECP/your local factor and save some time, even using normal pads you're only saving £25ish over 50k+? That's 0.0005p per mile or £3.50 a year based on the 7k a year your car was doing.

As to tyres i'm a bit picky, if they suffer from excessive age related cracking or the compound has significantly altered (read hardened) with age then yes i'd change them irrespective of the wear, tyres have an age related service life (and shelf life) as well as a wear limit. Rightly or wrongly i've always stuck to the ROSPA advice and changed at 3mm, see: http://www.rospa.com...tread_depth.pdf I know I could ride them to the limit but again common sense says you change them.

Anyway can anyone help Stu with his disc's as i've no idea what size he'd need ?

hi, just got the wheel off and measured the discs using a couple of flat washers to get past the lip and the discs are at 19.5 and appear to be in ok condition. minimum is 19mm according to haynes manual so I am gonna leave them for now??

pads look to be very low like about 1mm! so i am gonna order some now along with some high temp grease.

these ones on ebay are supposed to fit, so i am gonna go with these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eicher-Front-Brake-Pad-Set-Seat-Arosa-Skoda-Fabia-VW-Lupo-/300642521228?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item45ffb0d08c

thanks for the advice so far, any more will be appreciated

Thanks,

Stu

At 19.5 I would change them because they will be below 19 before you fit another set of pads and you'll be wasting pads. Unless, of course, you just don't check the thickness of the disks again until the pads wear out..

yeah i think i will take your advice and get discs, i am hoping to keep for car for a few years.

does it matter if i get pads without sensors if I do need them? my pads are down to about 1mm and i have not had any warning lights come on, i could only see one wire behind the disc and I think that might be the abs sensor?

or shall i just buy the ones with sensors and cut them off?

You don't need sensors. You can cut the wires off if you get the ones with wires on.

ok thanks for the help

if i order a disc and pad set on ebay with 256mm discs, will I be getting the right discs and pads? I have FSiii calipers, just wondering if there are any other calipers/pads for the 256mm disc?

Nice forum thread with tons of useful information. I jump right in, instead of starting a new thread.

So, today I was about to change front discs and pads. Started by seeing that I don't have the - pretty uncommon - 7 mm Allen key used for caliper in my toolbox. Anyways, managed to buy one with 1/2" socket wrench fitting, which was really good because the bolts were kind of hard.

Anyways, later on I found that the cheap C-clamp that I had bought was too clumsy to reach in on the piston I'm a smooth way. So, I just ran and bought a special tool (basically a C-clamp) for brake calipers, but now I read that it's maximum width span is no more than 65 mm.

Will this be enough for the standard 'FS-III' caliper? I've put the wheel back on and car on the ground for the time being, so I thought I'd ask here before opening the tool package thus becoming unable to return it to the store.

Thoughts?

Use big water pump plyers and the old pad to push pistons back on.

or

while everyrhing all attatched use a good screw driver on thd discs and pads in the gap to push back in. As you are changing. Dont be bothered to damagr them

Nice idea, thanks @fletch101!

Now, this is probably considered a stupid question, but anyways, will the piston stay retracted after pushing it with that that fat screwdriver or big water pliers, or do you need to keep actively clamping it back until you're done installing the new brake pads?

It will stay pushed in. (Unless someone pushes the brake pedal!)