Thanks again for all the comments, though it has to be said the jury is out - some saying the 110 is fine, others saying the 140 is the compromise candidate (and probably my choice at this time), with the 170 being the hoot (and SWMBO's choice I feel...)

Is there any rationale in thinking that a 140 or 170 wouldbe better than a 110 when it comes to handling all the electickery and air con? That is to say that a more powerful motor would better handle the non-movement requirements than a lower power engine???

I don't think it would make any difference.

Did a track day in mine and it really is quicker than most people would imagine.

How many VRs's did you smoke Boss?

As previously mentioned, the 110 & 140 are physically identical.

Buy the 110, then if you need more oomph, get a remap. Simples!

Thanks again for all the comments, though it has to be said the jury is out - some saying the 110 is fine, others saying the 140 is the compromise candidate (and probably my choice at this time), with the 170 being the hoot (and SWMBO's choice I feel...)

Is there any rationale in thinking that a 140 or 170 wouldbe better than a 110 when it comes to handling all the electickery and air con? That is to say that a more powerful motor would better handle the non-movement requirements than a lower power engine???

As previously mentioned, the 110 & 140 are physically identical.

Buy the 110, then if you need more oomph, get a remap. Simples!

Worth checking the insurance on a remapped 110 vs an unmolested 140. Or you could remap a 140!

Worth checking the insurance on a remapped 110 vs an unmolested 140. Or you could remap a 140!

Physically identical! You'll get same output (or near as dammit) from a remapped 110 as a 140!!

But yes, insurance may be the killer for that idea..

Edited 9 May, 201214 yr by Benjiman

Physically identical! You'll get same output (or near as dammit) from a remapped 110 as a 140!!

But yes, insurance may be the killer for that idea..

my insurance, all mods declared, was less than £300..... so not too bad

As previously mentioned, the 110 & 140 are physically identical.

Buy the 110, then if you need more oomph, get a remap. Simples!

Engines yes but differences in gearboxes and brakes

Engines yes but differences in gearboxes and brakes

+1

The important bits.....

+1

The important bits.....

Engines yes but differences in gearboxes and brakes

My 110 picks up so fast in the lower gears that I have to change gear very quickly to keep in a reasonable rev range and I was wondering how you get on with the 140 and 170 - I assume that the gears are wider spaced otherwise you'd be snatching the next gear about every few seconds when accelerating hard. Are the gears less close ratio than the 110?

My choice was easy.

DSG only available with CR140.

Job done.

+3!

My 110 picks up so fast in the lower gears that I have to change gear very quickly to keep in a reasonable rev range and I was wondering how you get on with the 140 and 170 - I assume that the gears are wider spaced otherwise you'd be snatching the next gear about every few seconds when accelerating hard. Are the gears less close ratio than the 110?

Maybe you are changing gear too early?

My 170 seems to have a wide powerband, pulling well from around 1600rpm to over 3500rpm if you are going for it.

The gears are well spaced. 1st is very low so great when towing. 5th and 6th are a bit close for my liking, but that's all.

I did order the DSG 140, but was put off by the bad fuel consumption compared to the manual.

Particularly by members on here using it in town and getting less than my wife's 1.2Tsi DSG.

In hindsight, for me personally the 170 was the right option. I do like a car with a bit of zip...

Maybe you are changing gear too early?

Well I have only done a few hundred miles so far and don't want to thrash it, but I do believe in "running in" an engine fairly briskly so I do sometimes go to about 3,500 before changing but it gets there so quickly with only 110 hp. that wondered how you'd cope with a 170.

Maybe you are changing gear too early?

My 170 seems to have a wide powerband, pulling well from around 1600rpm to over 3500rpm if you are going for it.

The gears are well spaced. 1st is very low so great when towing. 5th and 6th are a bit close for my liking, but that's all.

I did order the DSG 140, but was put off by the bad fuel consumption compared to the manual.

Particularly by members on here using it in town and getting less than my wife's 1.2Tsi DSG.

In hindsight, for me personally the 170 was the right option. I do like a car with a bit of zip...

I'd agree, the CR170 pulls really strongly all the way to the 'red line' and, when I had my Octavia vRS TDI, I would use it.

Switching to the CR140 in my Yeti I found the 'pull' is not so strong above 3,500 - 3,750rpm - the engine is starting to feel 'out of breath'. I'd imagine it will be the same with the CR110 as this is simply a throttled back CR140. I'm being picky with this comment as, no doubt, the performance of these engines are fine in general/overall terms.

Gear ratios on the 6-speed 'box IMHO are nicely spaced for sporty driving as they get closer as you go up the box. i.e. 2nd to 3rd - revs drop 1,200 rpm; 3rd to 4th - revs drop 1,000rpm; 4th to 5th - revs drop 800 rpm; 5th to 6th - revs drop 600 rpm (or something of that order).

I'm not sure about you Bahnstormer, but the power delivery on my Shark modded CR140 pulls quite strongly all the way to the red line, so much so that I have been asked if it was a petrol :lol:

I'm not sure about you Bahnstormer, but the power delivery on my Shark modded CR140 pulls quite strongly all the way to the red line, so much so that I have been asked if it was a petrol :lol:

You're perfectly correct.

My comments in post #39 above were made on the basis of my recollection of the OE map and before Kevin was Shark'd! The remap cured any lethargy and breathlessness in the upper reaches of the rev range.

You're perfectly correct.

My comments in post #39 above were made on the basis of my recollection of the OE map and before Kevin was Shark'd! The remap cured any lethargy and breathlessness in the upper reaches of the rev range.

It's like being attached to a very large stretched rubber band

It's like being attached to a very large stretched rubber band

Speak for yourself

for an unmolested, normal, enjoyable, economical deezel engine - the 170 cannot be beaten.

for an unmolested, normal, enjoyable, economical deezel engine - the 170 cannot be beaten.

If you want a manual........I agree

for an unmolested, normal, enjoyable, economical deezel engine - the 170 cannot be beaten.

I agree ... but I'm curious. Has anybody remapped one upwards yet?

I agree ... but I'm curious. Has anybody remapped one upwards yet?

Not heard of anybody doing that yet......maybe with my next one......210bhp Yeti ..ooohhh fun

I agree ... but I'm curious. Has anybody remapped one upwards yet?

I did speak to Jabbasport about it (they built my modified VRS Fabia) and they were suggesting for long term reliability you don't want to go too much over 200bhp.

It would be interesting to see how different it feels.

There is a tuning box on the market that plugs into the boost and fueling parts of the system, which suggests an increase of 40bhp to 210 and about an extra 100NM of torque. Which is a fair increase.

I did speak to Jabbasport about it (they built my modified VRS Fabia) and they were suggesting for long term reliability you don't want to go too much over 200bhp.

It would be interesting to see how different it feels.

There is a tuning box on the market that plugs into the boost and fueling parts of the system, which suggests an increase of 40bhp to 210 and about an extra 100NM of torque. Which is a fair increase.

The standard remap for a PD or CR 170 engine, by Superchips, REVO, Shark and the like will take it to 200-205 bhp. I had 205-210 bhp out of the PD170 in my Octy vRS from Superchips.

Jabbasport's suggestion of 'long term reliability' is more, IMHO and what what I have learnt & researched, about the reliability of the DPF i.e. not overloading it and blocking it up. If this is removed then 220-225 bhp is easily and safely achievable.

Yes, the DPF seems to be one of the main considerations.

I have no intention of removing it.