I've just measured one at 11mm (that's a fully pulled-up rivet, not sure it'll change at all).

 

The issue with rivnuts etc. is, don't they stick out a bit on the side that the panel is being pulled up against? Maybe not enough to matter though if sufficient sealant is used.

 

Someone I know (  , honest), might have used something very like this with the square nuts superglued to the back of the door panel.  I'm not sure this a good idea though as if the nut comes unglued during removal it becomes an issue...

 

The rivnuts I have will stick out at about 1.5mm, good point, I'd better check I'd get enough compression on the seal.

Agree with rivnuts, not done it but looks like a plan. Skoda cheap'd out (and put me right off their future cars as a result tbh)

 

One always ends up wanting to fix something inside the door in the future. I'm certainly going to use rivnuts in the future if I do it again.

If you manage to it with rivnuts, if you're able to post the spec of what you used and if it worked well, that would be great for anyone looking at this in the future (myself included!)

 

Good luck.

 

I shall put some photos up and tell you what I used. I wouldn't let the rivets put you off future Skoda's, all VW group cars are like this now, all of them, but between us all, we'll come up with a solution.

Hey guys,

 

I'm preparing for re-sealing of rear door carriers (will do this for 1st time since bought a car, as a new- ahhh,

those nice days...) this week but one question for me remains open:

when you re-seal carrier with sealant > water now gathers in chamber between carrier and door > no way

for escaping now since...everything is re-sealed!

Or how?

 

Sorry, haven't took-off door card yet so "water escaping routes in door" is bit' unknown.

 

Some pals in forum already asked about it but (seems) nobody gave clear answer...

Just seal the carrier exactly where the original seal was.  The excess water will run out the bottom of the door through the drain holes like it was originally designed to do.

Just seal the carrier exactly where the original seal was.  The excess water will run out the bottom of the door through the drain holes like it was originally designed to do.

 

Hmm... will try to re-design :-) my question:

 

My answer is still the same.  What you've drawn is the exact same as what happens with the standard seal.  It'll evaporate away anyway (the amount of water that will collect in that gap is insignificant).

 

The issue with the standard seal is that it's make from very soft crap foam.  If you seal it with waterproof sealant you solve the problem.

Edited 2 July, 201411 yr by Bazmcc

Hmm... will try to re-design :-) my question:

 

_.jpeg

 

I think some water will get trapped like that but there's not much you can really do about it. 

My answer is still the same.  What you've drawn is the exact same as what happens with the standard seal.  It'll evaporate away anyway (the amount of water that will collect in that gap is insignificant).

 

The issue with the standard seal is that it's make from very soft crap foam.  If you seal it with waterproof sealant you solve the problem.

 

Ok, clear- thks for idea, Bazmcc and TMB.

 

Your opinion about doing job just with aluminium tape + drilling 2 bores?

Idea appeared in some old topic.

At first sight it looked hmmm but then I recognised sentence about "to not pushing tape against door fully but to leave channel for water ecsaping through drilled bores"- then execution with tape started to look quite ok.

 

Smells like normal result with minimum efforts compared to using of sealant...

It's a pain of a job to take off the carrier, scrap out the seal and re-seal it, very messy, however it really is the only way if you want it to last more than a week. thats my opinion on it. I'm against adding extra holes as that kind of change is hard to reverse!

 

in a heavy rainstorm the doors can fill up quite high, even with all the drain holes clear of wax/crud.

It's a pain of a job to take off the carrier, scrap out the seal and re-seal it, very messy, however it really is the only way if you want it to last more than a week. thats my opinion on it. I'm against adding extra holes as that kind of change is hard to reverse!

 

in a heavy rainstorm the doors can fill up quite high, even with all the drain holes clear of wax/crud.

 

Agree... drilling, cleaning, re-riveting etc.means pain in appropriate place :-) but final result, of course, should be for lifetime.

 

Ok, will try to do job in middle way: re-sealing without taking-off of carrier + tape (without extra bores); let's see.

At least, it will not make worse in that way ;-)

 

Just for info- rear doors started to leak after ~ 7 years (left- tragically now / right- just started) but both front doors still are dry as from factory.

Edited 2 July, 201411 yr by indars

If re-sealing without removing carrier please make sure you take your sealant quite a long way up the rear edge of the carrier, see post #3 here.

 

If taking off the carrier to seal, you may want to consider removing the plastic bracket that links the lock mechanism to the carrier, as I believe that's what causes much of the water that gets onto the carrier, to be there.  (See same post)

I don't think that bracket performs any vital role after the car leaves the production line, but I haven't tried removing or re-fitting a rear door lock so I can't say for sure. I know that the thing broke as I was trying to get the carrier off, so there wasn't any point in leaving it on, especially once I saw the watermarking.

 

When I resealed the other rear door, I didn't bother removing the carrier (riveted), I just did a  very thorough cleaning/prep job, and then generous quantities of Plumber's Gold. Both sides have  been arid ever since.

If re-sealing without removing carrier please make sure you take your sealant quite a long way up the rear edge of the carrier, see post #3 here.

 

If taking off the carrier to seal, you may want to consider removing the plastic bracket that links the lock mechanism to the carrier, as I believe that's what causes much of the water that gets onto the carrier, to be there.  (See same post)

I don't think that bracket performs any vital role after the car leaves the production line, but I haven't tried removing or re-fitting a rear door lock so I can't say for sure. I know that the thing broke as I was trying to get the carrier off, so there wasn't any point in leaving it on, especially once I saw the watermarking.

 

When I resealed the other rear door, I didn't bother removing the carrier (riveted), I just did a  very thorough cleaning/prep job, and then generous quantities of Plumber's Gold. Both sides have  been arid ever since.

 

Thank you, Wino- good remark about sealing to almost-up of edge of carrier.

Will search for some sealant tomorrow- have no Plumpber's Gold in Latvia but hope to find ~ similar stuff from Soudal or Bison, or xxx assortiment.

 

New door card clips 6Y0867260 already purchased (original, no discount, 0.35 EUR/piece) and 40mm floor plugs, too- 1K0899185 (0.30 EUR/piece; looks way better than old execution from '2007- sitting nice and tight, rubberized plastic)... almost armed for sealing/drying job.

 

Dot- I'm goin' to sleep...

 

 

 

Thank you, Wino- good remark about sealing to almost-up of edge of carrier.

Will search for some sealant tomorrow- have no Plumpber's Gold in Latvia but hope to find ~ similar stuff from Soudal or Bison, or xxx assortiment.

 

New door card clips 6Y0867260 already purchased (original, no discount, 0.35 EUR/piece) and 40mm floor plugs, too- 1K0899185 (0.30 EUR/piece; looks way better than old execution from '2007- sitting nice and tight, rubberized plastic)... almost armed for sealing/drying job.

 

Dot- I'm goin' to sleep...

 

Will try one of these sealants:

http://www.soudal.com/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=8&p=498&ID=2534

or

http://www.soudal.com/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=8&p=498&ID=2538

 

ak 022.jpg

I've just measured one at 11mm (that's a fully pulled-up rivet, not sure it'll change at all).

 

The issue with rivnuts etc. is, don't they stick out a bit on the side that the panel is being pulled up against? Maybe not enough to matter though if sufficient sealant is used.

 

Someone I know (  , honest), might have used something very like this with the square nuts superglued to the back of the door panel.  I'm not sure this a good idea though as if the nut comes unglued during removal it becomes an issue...

 

 

Agree with rivnuts, not done it but looks like a plan. Skoda cheap'd out (and put me right off their future cars as a result tbh)

 

One always ends up wanting to fix something inside the door in the future. I'm certainly going to use rivnuts in the future if I do it again.

If you manage to it with rivnuts, if you're able to post the spec of what you used and if it worked well, that would be great for anyone looking at this in the future (myself included!)

 

Good luck.

 

Hi guys,

 

Well I pondered on using rivnuts, but decided against it as they stick out by 1.5mm, which would mean the panel wouldn't get enough compression against the door, plus I didn't want to affect any moving parts even by 1.5mm.

 

So I decided to put it back with rivets. I went to TPS main dealers and got the rivets and measured off every dimension so that I could get more from anywhere at another time. I used a large scissor type rivet tool to put the rivets back into the panel. It's no massive deal drilling out rivets and using rivets again. ok, so it's not as easy as the early cars with bolts, but it's what we're faced with and it's no massive deal.

 

I have since reading this thread looked at the back doors. Both of those are leaking, so I'll need to get some sealant on those when I get a chance.

Edited 5 July, 201411 yr by Skodub

Rear door's carriers re-sealed last holiday > tested in carwash today and... door seals are dry. Yesss!!!

 

Few remarks:

 

Door card's clips:

Half of them broke when I just started to insert tool between card and door.

So, if you have spare clips you should worry only about clip's holders (to not tear them off-the-card).

Have had opportunity to use removal tool set from Biltema (borrowed from my friend)- was quite (but not more than quite) useful:

 

Door card removal:

Don't tilt card too far from door- just clip it out from window handle's shaft (if have this old-school option) and lift card vertically.

Here's sequence: lifting-up from front side > to midddle > then pull it a bit forward > a bit up again > card off.

 

Trick is in point "3"; in another way card's seal stucks against window seal in corner.

So, do it in correct and quick way- and don't try to save time with placing just lower part of card on rear seat... with risk of damaging something + very bad access (aha- a lot of videos where guys are drinking tea and doing job mega-quickly, and are very proud of it ;-)

 

 

Re-sealing:

Before job promised myself to not search for problems and made re-sealing without taking-off of carrier.

Think, here's start of some posted problems when after re-sealing carrier is leaking again (in next day or after few years...think, that's too much too fast anyway):

 old guy Sponge Bob (=foam seal) wasn't perfectly cleaned-out from gap...

 

Oh, man... it took me 90% of time to clean those damn gaps (bad access, foam with old glue and it stucks in gap all the time).

I used metal sheet to cut-out most of foam (be careful with paint! ok, a bit of carrier's zinc was damaged, in gap...);

then with plastic hook forth-and-back > some compressed air > some whitespirit...

 

...and only then- applying of sealant (I used Soudal Fix-All Classic):

 

And no matter how many sealant is outside of gap...it just looks funny on posted photos later- but how many sealant is in gap?

Re-sealed rivets and end of plastic clips in carrier, too- there were traces of dried water on almost all of them.

 

Next time (with front doors, when those will start to leak) will try some chemical solution, ha, instead of plastic hook and damn cleaning process...