Hey everyone, I know this has probably been answered many times but im rather confused :S You read about panel filters such as K&N and Green Cotton being better than the standard panel filters but then you read that they are not. So which is it?

I know that with performance panel filters you wont see any BHP increase, but this isnt what im looking for. Im just looking for a increase in MPG and a healthier engine. So my question is will a performance filter such as K&N or Green Cotton provide better air flow? ,be better for the engine? ,and increase MPG?

P.S My car is a 1.4 Mk1 fabia

Thank you in advanced for answer

Many thanks James

Don't quote me on it but I wouldn't have thought it would, as its letting more air in more fuel will be used :/ all my mates with a panel filter say it is less economical, but I may not be correct. They usually just make a petrol engine sound beefier.

If you want economy then keep your car serviced and tyres at the correct pressures & do not waste money on performance filters.

http://www.torquecar...uction-kits.php

Get any extra weight out the car & be aware of tyre pressures in cold weather

Learn to hypermile.

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/care-guide/cold-weather-tips

george

If you want one, go for a K&N, as I've seen bad things with Green and Pipercross ones.

I fitted one to my vRS whilst on a Rolling Road and only gained 1.1 BHP. I didn't find any significant difference in MPG, but I'm sure it's worth it.

1.4 8v? Just use a standard one. If the one in there has been used for 20k miles or so stick a new standard one in. Some on here have made some mods to the air intake on the air filter box, which is quite small as standard, and probably the biggest bottleneck.

Basically service as the service manual states. If the spark plug change interval is up, renew those too.

In any case the 1.4 8v is a limited engine, being based largely on technology dating back to the 60's.

The factory filter is a performance filter in a way, it doesnt look much but is high flowing and is folded to increase surface area, an aftermarket one will yeild around 0.5/1BHP in my opinion. When not remapped the gain will be even smaller as the ECU will compensates, even when remapped to take the aftermarket filter into account it will add very little.

1BHP is well within dyno differences/tolerances.

My k and n was sold on recently. Was in my car when I bought it and 3 years later still looked as new. although it needed a clean. Car sounds funny without it now, never driven it with an oem filter before, sounds less rorty.

I think the paper OEM filter elements offer a "healthier" engine than aftermarket cotton ones, the filtration is better and no chance of messing anything up by over oiling the filter. Also I wouldn't think you'd see a measurable BHP or MPG increase, but probably a little more noise. On the diesel vRS, the standard Skoda paper filter is good for over 200 bhp, not sure if the same one is fitted to the 1.4!

By the way, you don't state if your engine is the 1.4 8v or 1.4 16v?

I think the paper OEM filter elements offer a "healthier" engine than aftermarket cotton ones, the filtration is better and no chance of messing anything up by over oiling the filter.

What can the effects be if you over oil the filter mate?

Edited 27 September, 201213 yr by jkevs

In any case the 1.4 8v is a limited engine, being based largely on technology dating back to the 60's.

I know someone pushing it rev beyond 8k and making above 120 horses

Yeh sorry its a 8v, thanks for all the info

What can the effects be if you over oil the filter mate?

On the TDI Fabias it fouls the hot-wire MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) which causes running and MPG issues. To fix it, the MAF has to be replaced and it's about £80. Has to be OEM one too, non-Skoda MAFs are known to create problems of their own. I would assume both issues exist on the 1.4 8v also, as it is fuel injected.

On the TDI Fabias it fouls the hot-wire MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) which causes running and MPG issues. To fix it, the MAF has to be replaced and it's about £80. Has to be OEM one too, non-Skoda MAFs are known to create problems of their own. I would assume both issues exist on the 1.4 8v also, as it is fuel injected.

If you have the engine breather line down stream of the MAF sensor you would be fine with K&Ns. I don't use a K&N filter because it very dusty here and these filters don't have the filtering efficiency that I would like. However, you would be fine with it I believe. Do have any sand storms? We do have a lot :p

Anyway, if you feel that your car isn't responsive and the power is coming and going just clean MAF sensor with some carb cleaner. It would take you 3 min and it is routine maintenance in the first place.

And yes, the K&N would increase your MPG because the engine would not be working as hard to suck air. However, it would not be that big of a jump and maybe not even noticeable.

I want to close up with something; the v8 does not have a MAF sensor. The v8 reads manifold pressure via a MAP sensor to get the right fuelling for the the car. The MAP sensor too needs cleaning from time to another and the throttle body. Maybe you can have some fun this weekend getting yourself dirty :p

On the TDI Fabias it fouls the hot-wire MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) which causes running and MPG issues. To fix it, the MAF has to be replaced and it's about £80. Has to be OEM one too, non-Skoda MAFs are known to create problems of their own. I would assume both issues exist on the 1.4 8v also, as it is fuel injected.

Cheers mate, much appreciated. My car is pouring out black smoke and is sluggish as hell, which made the turbo over spin and I have blown two turbos... Could this be the cause?

Edited 29 September, 201213 yr by jkevs

And yes, the K&N would increase your MPG because the engine would not be working as hard to suck air. However, it would not be that big of a jump and maybe not even noticeable.

I want to close up with something; the v8 does not have a MAF sensor. The v8 reads manifold pressure via a MAP sensor to get the right fuelling for the the car. The MAP sensor too needs cleaning from time to another and the throttle body. Maybe you can have some fun this weekend getting yourself dirty :p

Haha thanks for the clarification do you have nay tips and guides for cleaning these parts? Im an aircraft electrician and well car mechanics isnt the usual hahaha, always up for giving it a try haha

I know someone pushing it rev beyond 8k and making above 120 horses <img src='http://www.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/emoticon-0105-wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />

While that's possible, it's just easier to buy a car with the power you want. Unless you really enjoy taking the engine out and rebuilding ground up. Not knocking it, as I'm sure some people enjoy that and have all the time, money, and equipment needed.

Any air filter will only give improvement if the old one was clogged. The change interval skoda specify is far too long IMO. Also many people seem to forget the need to change the cabin one.

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Edited 29 September, 201213 yr by anewman

. Also many people seem to forget the need to change the cabin one.

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Where is the cabin one? I's there one on a vrs Mk 1?

Edited 29 September, 201213 yr by jkevs

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Where is the cabin one? I's there one on a vrs Mk 1?

Is that not the pollen filter!!?

Not sure if I'm right on this but if you stick your head in the passenger side under the glove box there should be two sliding bits if plastic, slide these to the unlock possition then the filter pulls out. Not 100% on this but that's where I think its at

Usually handfuls of leaves come out with it, lol.

Not sure if I'm right on this but if you stick your head in the passenger side under the glove box there should be two sliding bits if plastic, slide these to the unlock possition then the filter pulls out. Not 100% on this but that's where I think its at

Didn't even know about that lol :/ thanks though

Haha thanks for the clarification do you have nay tips and guides for cleaning these parts? Im an aircraft electrician and well car mechanics isnt the usual hahaha, always up for giving it a try haha

Well I pulled out the throttle body and the MAP sensor on mine and cleaned them up, but you don't have to go that far. Just get a carb cleaner and give the the throttle body a couple of sprays, that is after taking off the odd plastic looking thing on top, start up and give it another couple. Turn off the car, open the throttle body, aim to the MAP sensor which is just after the throttle body at the back wall of intake manifold and give it a good spray. At this point I would let the car recalibrate itself by taking off the negative terminal for 15min and after connecting it you have to leave it running for 20-30min without touching the steering wheel, pedals, or any controllers would demand something for the ecu.

I hope that would be helpful

Not sure if I'm right on this but if you stick your head in the passenger side under the glove box there should be two sliding bits if plastic, slide these to the unlock possition then the filter pulls out. Not 100% on this but that's where I think its at

Yep, There is a pic guide here: http://www.briskoda....bia-air-filter/

The question is, if K&N made them, would it blow your face off? :think:

The question is, if K&N made them, would it blow your face off? :think:

Ha, number four setting is more Gail force 10

The question is, if K&N made them, would it blow your face off? :think:

Just leave it out for best blowing performance Await face full of leaves and flies, lol.