I've read bits and bobs on this, the basis being you spray water on your IC to cool it......but during hot day the water will be warm?

Is there a way to have the water cooled via air-con?

Would it have much of a performance difference?

doesn't matter if the water is warm, the cooling of the IC comes from the water evaporating, so as long as it hits it in liquid form, then takes the heat away to evaporate it'll work!

+ with the air con running it would use more power that it could ever make

Performance difference - well if you get heatsoak engine power will be reduced, cooling it more reduces the likelyhood of this happening.

I'd first consider the cheap option of TT Vents (or still cheaper, cut & fold) to get the air near the IC

I've read loads here about modding the wheel arch, does it actually make any difference? as I've had my furby for just a few days now, I haven't encountered a life draining hot day yet...... so I can't report on a loss of power.. this "heat soak" does it affect alot?

wait till a hot day or especially when it's remapped mine seems to loose about 10% power, might not sound much but it's the way it is delivered thats the big difference.

Imagine an extremly cold night (or even tonight in the North anyway), mine was very responsive and seemed to keep pulling through every gear in a very aggressive yet linear way (theres an oxymoron for you )

On a warm day the car feels tired as if it's not liking the speed and the power delivery is slower and not as linear.

I would love a FMIC especially after reading the other post currently running and a recent VAG-COM test and the heat difference between the Allard FMIC and the standard SMIC, but

I would love a FMIC especially after reading the other post currently running and a recent VAG-COM test and the heat difference between the Allard FMIC and the standard SMIC, but

You wont have to cough up another

^^

Just got in touch with Canward Racing Technologies about the SMIC I/C Spray, I have bought the 3 misting nozzle spray with the automatic adjustable boost pressure switch, but opted not for an "in car" switch meaning I can't overide it, so I guess it'll just always be turned "ON", since the spray will be regulated by the boost pressure switch will this mean that it will be permanently just spraying my I/C though :confused: as whenever I am accelerating it will be "on boost", or do you think it'll have somekind of sensor which activates it once the boost reaches a certain psi? I was advised that for best performance to leave it at 12 psi.

doesn't matter if the water is warm, the cooling of the IC comes from the water evaporating, so as long as it hits it in liquid form, then takes the heat away to evaporate it'll work!

Correct, if I remember my science, it's an endothermic reaction - it draws in heat as the water evaporates, and therefore gets rid of it. Similar principal to your body perspiring. So if it's at ambient temp as opposed to chilled, it'll still work. If you want it icy, get a CO2 cooler system.

Correct, if I remember my science, it's an endothermic reaction - it draws in heat as the water evaporates, and therefore gets rid of it. Similar principal to your body perspiring. So if it's at ambient temp as opposed to chilled, it'll still work. If you want it icy, get a CO2 cooler system.

Correct - A* young man...

I have only used my auto IC spray on my evo about 4 times.

Complete waste of time if you ask me.

Different car though lee, different setup, remember we are talking about a poxy SMIC.

also when the intercooler is wet the passing air will have a bigger affect on the cooling. wet your hand then blow on it, feels a lots colder than just blowing on your hand, surely the same effect on the intercooler :confused:

and you wouldn't need you map tweaking you just wouldn't lose power. but you *could* have you car mapped more agressivly once you have the ontercooler fitted for more power

a FMIC would theoretically not increase total power on a TDi (it would on a petrol however.. allow more boost and more agressive timing)

when remapped the inlet temp rises VERY quicky.. so the cooler you can keep it the better... see my FMIC thread for a test to prove

@Colin G - there is an element of 'I want one' in there too though, reading between the lines

With a remap it sure becomes even more crucial.

I think this kinda summarises the options I've spotted on the site:

Options in order of cost & performance:

1. Venting the SMIC. Fairly cheap, reasonable effect. Mainly brings the temps down quicker based on posts I've seen here.

2. Spray the SMIC. Bit more expensive, pretty effective. I'd combine it with (1) though as it will probably be pretty decent. Quicker knocking down of temps and with appropriate sensor can prevent the temp getting as high in the first place.

3. FMIC - expensive but superiour option as it will keep the temps a lot lower and thus avoid the problems Colin G's thread is referring to.

Without a remap I'm guessing temperatures will go up but not as much as quickly, so 1/2 would be sufficient most of the time. 3 is probably perfect for remapped cars that also do track

We have yet to see conclusive results from the IC spray...

may have to get some logging done with josh to test

Sounds good, should be getting mine on Monday, so i'll fit it, and let everyone know how my week of driving has gone and do a small review/pics, a kind of "how to"

Looking forward to it - strictly speaking that is not a real modification I'm hoping

1. Venting the SMIC. Fairly cheap' date=' reasonable effect. Mainly brings the temps down quicker based on posts I've seen here.

2. Spray the SMIC. Bit more expensive, pretty effective. I'd combine it with (1) though as it will probably be pretty decent. Quicker knocking down of temps and with appropriate sensor can prevent the temp getting as high in the first place.

3. FMIC - expensive but superiour option as it will keep the temps a lot lower and thus avoid the problems Colin G's thread is referring to.[/quote']

Don't forget 4. FMIC + IC spray

Chris

I've just added an intercooler spray to my vRS, and documented the process on my website.

Slight cockup on the testing front, though. After looking at my logs for two hours, I can only conclude that either the spray is having zero effect, or ...I forgot to turn the water tap on! More testing tomorrow.

Turning the water off won't make the impact of fitting it very high

You're right you could do FMIC + spray but you shouldnt have to surely

Anybody tried a CO2-cooled fuel rail? Probably not the best idea on a derv but do they work on petrol guzzlers?

We have yet to see conclusive results from the IC spray...

may have to get some logging done with josh to test

Well, it all depends on what you mean by 'conclusive'...

My trials of an intercooler spray took a while to do because I had problems with my pump (which proved not to be self-priming) and because I needed to build a timer to control the spray duration.

My rig consists of a 3-litre Camelbak water container; a Halford washer pump and tubing, and nozzles.

Initially I used a pair of Gardena misting nozzles (cheap, from garden centres - thanks for the tip Josh), and later the nozzle that Autospeed use with their spray kit (the "OzNoz"; excellent service from Autospeed - took 4 days to arrive from Australia!)

The results are disappointing, and are summarised on the graph below.

The best spray (the OzNoz) took the maximum temperature down by 8.1

Cheers for the info Bryan...

I've never had the chance to log mine (not had a laptop before) so I couldn't tell whether mine was doing anything or not...

I've not really had to use it yet as the weather has been so pants, but now that I've got a laptop I'll do some logging of mine on a hot day (if we get one!) just to see for myself.