Having taken delivery of our car on Saturday, it's taken a day or 2 to look around and underneath.

I was intending to change wheels and tyres this week, but there is a prominent notice on the rear swinging arm which states no jacking or rope attachment on this arm.

I can understand the instruction not to attach a rope, but the no jacking warning has got me thinking.

Most tyre shops that I know just slide trolley jacks under the suspension and lift the car like that.

In the past this is how I have lifted wheels -with a wooden block as a protector (at home of course). I don't drive around with one in the boot!.

I didn't go for the spare option, so I have no scissor jack.

Can I use a trolley jack at the scissor jacking points, with suitable protection or is the strengthened jacking point very small?

Another thing that concerns me is how many tyre shop jackers will read the warning and avoid suspension damage?

There have been threads on this before - have a trawl.

I'm sure most tyre garages would just jack under anything around the sill area

The OEM scissor jack does clip round the sill welded joint, but in fact the load bearing part is the "floor" panel immediately next to the welded seam. The clip part is purely for location to ensure it's in the correct spot. If you crawl under the vehicle when jacked up, you can see the clearance between the clip and the seam.

As the load is taken at the root of the bend in the metal on the welded seam, it's probably stronger than another nearby flat area which might be susceptible to distortion.

I did consider doing the mod http://www.briskoda....ads-to-octavia/ , but decided not to. Instead, I use a block of wood at the rear on the flat area in front of the rear trailing arm location, and at the front the metal subframe with a polyurethane protective sheet.

I normally take my wheels in loose so as to avoid any potential damage or sealant removal due to careless jacking

Use the correct sill jacking points myself, as does thankfully my local ATS, with their rubber blocked lifting jacks.

In my case I use a Sealey 3T trolley jack with a ice hockey puck as the 'pad'; got this idea from the forum.

Some have also cut a V notch into the puck but I've not found that necessary myself.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25756bbefd

TP

Use the correct sill jacking points myself, as does thankfully my local ATS, with their rubber blocked lifting jacks.

In my case I use a Sealey 3T trolley jack with a ice hockey puck as the 'pad'; got this idea from the forum.

Some have also cut a V notch into the puck but I've not found that necessary myself.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25756bbefd

TP

Quick question, just ordered the puck (to fit my winter wheels soon...) and was going to hack a grove in it so it fits round the sill and puts the load on the floor area (like the offical jack, it doesn't actually lift just on the sill). Did you get any sill bending by just lifting on the sill + flat puck ?

Also I might contact a local rubber moulders - loads of forums for all makes now talking about jacking on sills, but I can't find any offical adaptor for trolley jacks anywhere (that is not £50+!). Must be a small business opportunity here.

Quick question, just ordered the puck (to fit my winter wheels soon...) and was going to hack a grove in it so it fits round the sill and puts the load on the floor area (like the offical jack, it doesn't actually lift just on the sill). Did you get any sill bending by just lifting on the sill + flat puck ?

Also I might contact a local rubber moulders - loads of forums for all makes now talking about jacking on sills, but I can't find any offical adaptor for trolley jacks anywhere (that is not £50+!). Must be a small business opportunity here.

No bending of the sills with the Yeti, as the hanging seem is quite robust on the model. Plus if you run your fingers along the seem in the jacking area you may also note extra meat to the material than the rest of the seem.

What is important however is allowing the jack casters to move; tarmac/block paving to be avoided. Use a rectangular 1/2" ply board for the jack to sit on overcomes this issue no bother.

TP

I think there are conerns over removing the under body protective coating when you jack directly on the sill seam.

I'm sure the sill is strong enough, but I wouldn't want moisture/corrosion creeping in under the edges where the coating is damaged.

Ice Hockey Puck....brilliant idea. Thanks

I recently used the Skoda jack to raise my car to fit the winter wheels and found that it fouled on the corner of the RRP

I recently used the Skoda jack to raise my car to fit the winter wheels and found that it fouled on the corner of the RRP

I didn't have a problem with the jack fouling my RRP.

The jacking points are marked with little triangles on the sill. Quite hard to find, specially it the sill is dirty.

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I didn't have a problem with the jack fouling my RRP.

The jacking points are marked with little triangles on the sill. Quite hard to find, specially it the sill is dirty.

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Agreed. Didn't think the rrp components came that near the yeti's jacking points

Use the correct sill jacking points myself, as does thankfully my local ATS, with their rubber blocked lifting jacks.

In my case I use a Sealey 3T trolley jack with a ice hockey puck as the 'pad'; got this idea from the forum.

Some have also cut a V notch into the puck but I've not found that necessary myself.

TP

Ditto! +1

I doubt you'll be able to cut a deep enough groove in the puck to make it sit on the floorpan rather than the seam without weakening the puck & causing it to split.

I just jack on the seam (with a puck on my trolley jack), and touch up the underseal at that point afterwards. (The underseal was already missing on the seam at the jacking points when I took delivery so the dealer just slopped some Waxoyl black underbody seal on it when I pointed it out! I now do the same)

Edited 31 October, 201213 yr by speedsport

The other option is buy a jack that fits. I bought a s/h jack for an Audi, on ebay, fits perfectly.

This looks very suitable:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCISSOR-CAR-WHEEL-JACK-WIND-UP-for-SKODA-YETI-/250803336042?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3a650b336a

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-TON-SCISSOR-CAR-WHEEL-JACK-WIND-UP-for-SKODA-YETI-lifting-floor-garage-/281010841409?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item416d8d2741

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Car-Scissor-Jack-for-SKODA-FABIA-OCTAVIA-SUPERB-ROOMSTER-YETI-/300806702228?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item46097a0494

and this looks tempting

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/02-Skoda-Octavia-mk1-original-tool-kit-Jack-wheel-brace-screw-driver-etc-/360475808225?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53ee0851e1

Ditto! +1

I doubt you'll be able to cut a deep enough groove in the puck to make it sit on the floorpan rather than the seam without weakening the puck & causing it to split.

I just jack on the seam (with a puck on my trolley jack), and touch up the underseal at that point afterwards. (The underseal was already missing on the seam at the jacking points when I took delivery so the dealer just slopped some Waxoyl black underbody seal on it when I pointed it out! I now do the same)

I use the puck system but with a groove which I cut with a router, the groove approximates to the shape of the flange fitting on the supplied jack - approx half the depth of the puck and maybe 3/8" wide. To make the puck sit squarely on my trolley jack I glued the puck to a steel plate (bought from B&Q) and then screwed a round piece of 12mm MDF onto the other side of the steel plate. The piece of MDF sits perfectly into the recess on the arm of the trolley jack and the groove in the puck fits nicely over the seam of my Yeti - so everything is secure. Makes positioning the jack a doddle and you know it is in the right place. Simpleees!

I have today just changed my standard wheels and tyres (they have only done 1,100 miles from new!) to my winter 16" steel wheels (now painted silver!) and Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip 205/60/R16 - which are directional - I did remember to check when they arrived that I had two left and two right combination! I had wanted to buy the "puck" but did not get round to it so looked in my wood shed and found an oak off cut to some part of a stepped window frame. It fitted perfectly, the lower part under the sill and the inner part on the flat part underneath. On jacking up the load was equally shared by sill and inner floor. I did find that on the front jacking points it did just catch the RRP (mentioned by The Hood). I have no spare wheel, but you do get the nifty plastic tweezers for pulling the plastic wheel bolt covers off with! I have read the thread about the alignment screw-in headless bolts, but they really aren't necessary, if you are putting steel wheels on. The inner hub supports the wheel and you can slide it round to align for the wheel bolts. I used an extending wrench bought from a car parts shop. I keep it stowed on the two shopping bag hooks in the boot, with a couple of small bungees to hold it in place. tightened all wheel nuts an then torqued to 120Nm and lastly pumped tyres to 2.4bars. Job done.

Points to note: The jacking points are hard to find - have to lie on back and peer up to find the slightly raised black triangles.

The plastic wheel bolt covers can't be used on the steel wheels - have put in a plastic bag and put in under the floor with repair kit.

The centre of the wheels do look a bit bare, so may try and find a cover.

Peter

You could go all posh and have an electric jack

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item232341299b

( Y is nothing working in the reply box today cleared history etc still not working :-( )

Nah, not at £82!!

How about an air bag? No problems with jacking points then.

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I have today just changed my standard wheels and tyres (they have only done 1,100 miles from new!) to my winter 16" steel wheels (now painted silver!) and Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip 205/60/R16 - which are directional - I did remember to check when they arrived that I had two left and two right combination! I had wanted to buy the "puck" but did not get round to it so looked in my wood shed and found an oak off cut to some part of a stepped window frame. It fitted perfectly, the lower part under the sill and the inner part on the flat part underneath. On jacking up the load was equally shared by sill and inner floor. I did find that on the front jacking points it did just catch the RRP (mentioned by The Hood). I have no spare wheel, but you do get the nifty plastic tweezers for pulling the plastic wheel bolt covers off with! I have read the thread about the alignment screw-in headless bolts, but they really aren't necessary, if you are putting steel wheels on. The inner hub supports the wheel and you can slide it round to align for the wheel bolts. I used an extending wrench bought from a car parts shop. I keep it stowed on the two shopping bag hooks in the boot, with a couple of small bungees to hold it in place. tightened all wheel nuts an then torqued to 120Nm and lastly pumped tyres to 2.4bars. Job done.

Points to note: The jacking points are hard to find - have to lie on back and peer up to find the slightly raised black triangles.

The plastic wheel bolt covers can't be used on the steel wheels - have put in a plastic bag and put in under the floor with repair kit.

The centre of the wheels do look a bit bare, so may try and find a cover.

Peter

Why can't you use the plastic bolt covers with steel wheels? They fitted perfectly on mine and I know where they are next Spring when I put the summer tyres back on.

Why can't you use the plastic bolt covers with steel wheels? They fitted perfectly on mine and I know where they are next Spring when I put the summer tyres back on.

Because on the alloys they are well recessed and can't fall off or be nicked! On the steelies which are not recessed they can easily be pulled off or may fall off...

Peter

Because on the alloys they are well recessed and can't fall off or be nicked! On the steelies which are not recessed they can easily be pulled off or may fall off...

Peter

In my case they are hidden behind the Skoda Rif wheel trims so are secure.

I guess without trims the covers are more prominent but they are still on display with the alloys and if they can fall off the steel wheels then I would have thought they would equally fall off the steel wheels?

Why can't you use the plastic bolt covers with steel wheels? They fitted perfectly on mine and I know where they are next Spring when I put the summer tyres back on.

And mine!

The other option is buy a jack that fits. I bought a s/h jack for an Audi, on ebay, fits perfectly.

You have to be careful - other jacks may look similar but are not always exactly the same. E.G. my Fabia jack looks the same as the Yeti one but it actually seats differently and may be loading the wrong area. I have made a wooden puck that fits the Yeti and puts the load just behind the seam. Any slight damage to the sill underseal I patch up with black Waxoyl.

The jacking points can be found by touch as the arrow markings are raised - may be a bit dirty but you could wipe the sill with a rag first if you are bothered. There would be plenty of dirt on your hands anyway after changing a wheel at the side of the road.

Two points.

You also have to take into account the weight of the Yeti when choosing a jack. One from an Octavia or Superb should be fine, but a Fabia might have a lower weight limit.

Dirty hands: carry a cloth and gloves!

So if I take my car into ATS for a tyre repair etc you place the trolly jack underneath the sill at the jacking point and lift the car from there only?.

A bit dubious about this as the average tyre fitter is not the most subtle of people at the best of times.