Ahaha

Advise taken

It looks to have been chopped about abit and the toad alarm isn't the best fitted thing either. I'll see how it goes for now, if the problems cured I'll leave sorting the wiring till the weathers warmer.

Decided to change my headlights today for some clean ones that came with the truck. The ones on it were full of mud and dirt and the bulbs aren't the brightest at the best of times

Old ones

No pics of the new ones as it got dark.

The amount of mud and crap behind them was unreal, cleaned it all out so its probably half a ton lighter now. New brighter h4 bulbs are next on the list.

If you want a real difference, fit relays behind the headlights. Mine gained 2 volts over the old wiring and went from yellow to bright white. Best modification ever I think.

You will need two relays per side (one for main, one for dip) and decent size cable and fuse to feed it from near the battery or alternator.

2 tow straps fitted, 1 front 1 back. Plenty long enough and rated at 6 tonnes so they should do the job

Also picked up a newer 300tdi interior as mines seen better days. I'll get that fitted at the weekend.

After a 320mm/350mm steering wheel if anyone's got one lying around?

Momo,mountney etc

Cheers

Edited 22 December, 201213 yr by SNH

Had a few discos and love them to bits but they do rot but are easy to fix.

Just make sure you get the timing belt changed if you have no historyof it being done.

If you want a real difference, fit relays behind the headlights. Mine gained 2 volts over the old wiring and went from yellow to bright white. Best modification ever I think.

You will need two relays per side (one for main, one for dip) and decent size cable and fuse to feed it from near the battery or alternator.

Any guides on how to do this and part numbers please?

Our disco keeps having a bit of a brown out on one light where it just glows rather than lights up. Could be an earthing issue, could be a bulb blown elsewhere but I haven't a clue!

Had a few discos and love them to bits but they do rot but are easy to fix.

Just make sure you get the timing belt changed if you have no historyof it being done.

The rust/rot issue has been addressed on this and so have all the belts/seals etc. was off the road for a year being rebuilt underneath/engine which was one of the huge plus points for me. Bodyworks not pretty and it needs a couple of wings and a door but I can sort that, plenty breaking round here for cheap

It is a lot of fun and I wish I'd have got one sooner.

Bring on the 33" tyres

Any guides on how to do this and part numbers please?

Our disco keeps having a bit of a brown out on one light where it just glows rather than lights up. Could be an earthing issue, could be a bulb blown elsewhere but I haven't a clue!

+1 on this

Although I'm tempted to fit some facelift td5 headlights

Merry Christmas!

Fitted straps ready for Fridays outing

This is why I want a new steering wheel lol...........

Sorry guys no part numbers. Fitting relays is a reasonably straightforward auto-electric job. I'm sure if you search hard enough you'll find a pre-made version which is plug in or close to it.

Use 12v relays like this: http://classicgarage...hellarelay.html

I like the 5 pin versions as they are all the same. Hella 4 pin versions use a different pin layout to some other 4 pin versions.

Relay sockets make the wiring easier:

You'll need four relays and a fused lead from the battery to feed each side.

Each relay needs power (that fused lead), earth (go to the body near the headlight), a switched input (the old power lead to the light) and an output (to the bulb).

Basically you're just using the original headlight wiring to trigger the relay. You run on relay for high and one for dip on each side.

This way you get minimum voltage drop and max voltage to the lights. Mine picked up 2v over stock and made a massive improvement.

You can even make these wiring looms plug and plug if you get some H4 headlight connectors (check your bulbs are H4 first)

Spade-lugs into the orignal H4 sockets to get power in.

Another awesome day offroading

It looks good, but can I ask a daft question.

Why is there a tow hook on the front bumper?

I dunno mate its neither use nor ornament. Was on there when I got it but I'd never trust it to tow off. If all goes to plan there'll be a heavy duty winch bumper goin on soon anyway

Discovered some damage after offroading yesterday

Drivers mirror brackets broke - waiting to collect one

Drivers side wing broke - waiting to collect one

Steering bar bent - waiting to collect one

Exhaust snapped - just had a side exit fitted

New exhaust

But of a tinker day today.

Sorted/tidied all the loose dangly wires that ran down the passenger side

Removed all the pinstripes, stickers ready for the NATO green paint. Also assessed what damage/scratches lurked under the mud from Friday and taped the mirror up till I can get to pick another one up

Side exit

Clean.......ish

Bargain £8

Steering boss ordered

Light bar + 6 spot lights ordered

Cb & ariel got given, collecting tomorrow

CB fitted

Lightbar fitted

Slimline boss and smaller wheel fitted

Turbo & pump turned up

Just got a steering bar to swap and it'll be as good as new

Busy weekend just gone.

Collapsed wheel bearing had welded itself to the stub axle (pig of a job)!

Had a go a wiring the light bar.......works but keeps blowing the fuse and dimming the light its fed from. Worked out a new plan as its drawing to much from the one light.

And finally had to change my front wing as tie wraps were no longer up to the job of securing it as the abuse has took its toll

Pick some NATO green paint up off a mate at the weekend so I'll get the roller out and paint it soon.

Snow shot

Edited 29 January, 201313 yr by SNH

To make your wheel bearings last longer, buy the RTC3511 seals (double lip oil-tight ones), fit those to your hubs and pull the oil seals around the axle shafts. This gives you oil-bath wheel bearings which last a massive amount longer. It also stops water and muck getting in as easily.

Even if you don't want to run oil-bath, I still recommend the RTC3511 seals.

I shall keep those in mind for next time. Cheers

Managed to get hold of a decent rust/dent free bonnet in the same colour

(The sticker will be coming off )