Dead Yeti 170 - Stablisation Control Error

[loftypeak2]

Update. RAC arrived within 45 minutes (another ex VAG technician!) he went straight to the battery earth terminal which was not tight. He was able to get six flats more before the connection was tight.

He cleaned the pillar and removed and cleaned the connection, replaced them and tightened up correctly, left the engine running for a few minutes and said that the ESC warning sign and the steering warning sign would go out after a few hundred yards of driving, which they did. I am Impressed with Skoda assist.

Edited 3 June, 2013 by loftypeak2

[Moonman2]

I've just been bitten again by a flat battery! Luckily I knew what to do this time - ignore all the flashing lights and bongs, jump start the beast and take it for a good run.

 

Once again I'm left wondering what has drained the battery, and I've responded to a poster who said his radio did for him. I'll remove the radio fuse (I never listen while I'm driving anyway) and see if the problem recurs.

 

Some general questions if I may, since I've been Googling and found all sorts of conflicting information -

 

How long (roughly) should it take, driving, to recharge the battery to full, assuming it was "dead" to start with (battery voltage was 10.8V) but not actually faulty. Five minutes? Ten minutes? Thirty minutes? An hour? I know, from today's escapade, that forty minutes is enough to buy one one "start", but I've no idea how much charge is now in the battery. The car might not start tomorrow!

 

I drove the car mostly in third and fourth to keep the revs up, in the hope that this would speed up the charging process. Any science to my assumption?

 

When the car is running should one expect the alternator to be able to supply power for whatever is in use? Or is it normal for some battery charge to be consumed when "everything" is on?

 

What are the big power guzzlers in a Yeti? Heated seats I would imagine (and SWBO does like a warm back and derriere). But, air-con? Main-beam? Blower?

 

I'll check the battery earth terminal (as per previous poster) - what effect would a loose one have? Does it restrict the charge that the alternator can push into the battery?

 

There's a small amount of white corrosion on both -ve and +ve battery leads - anything to worry about?

[Llanigraham]

How long (roughly) should it take, driving, to recharge the battery to full, assuming it was "dead" to start with (battery voltage was 10.8V) but not actually faulty. Five minutes? Ten minutes? Thirty minutes? An hour? I know, from today's escapade, that forty minutes is enough to buy one one "start", but I've no idea how much charge is now in the battery. The car might not start tomorrow!

 

I believe the "perceived wisdom" is at least half an hour, depending on what you have on at the time. Best to actually turn all unneccesary electrical equipment off.

 

I drove the car mostly in third and fourth to keep the revs up, in the hope that this would speed up the charging process. Any science to my assumption?

 

Once the alternator is charging it is at it's full power, and since that is normally at tickover, it is doubtful.

 

When the car is running should one expect the alternator to be able to supply power for whatever is in use? Or is it normal for some battery charge to be consumed when "everything" is on?

 

The alternator running should provide more than enough "juice", even with everything on.

 

What are the big power guzzlers in a Yeti? Heated seats I would imagine (and SWBO does like a warm back and derriere). But, air-con? Main-beam? Blower?

 

Heated seats and heated windows are the biggest, followed by full fan and then the lighting. Air con is mechanical not electrical (other than the fan)

To check divide the wattage of each item by 13.5 to give the amperage.

 

I'll check the battery earth terminal (as per previous poster) - what effect would a loose one have? Does it restrict the charge that the alternator can push into the battery?

 

Loose terminal equals hig resistance, therefore reducing the "juice" getting to the battery.

 

There's a small amount of white corrosion on both -ve and +ve battery leads - anything to worry about?

 

Yes, as it can cause high resistance, as above.

Clean with warm water and a mild acid, dry and coat with silicone or petroleum jelly.

[Huwcymru]

Hi Graham, there's a recent thread in the Superb II forum suggesting the original batteries are not wonderful. There is also an outline of how to test for battery drain. If you can't find it pm me and I'll look.

Good luck.

[Moonman2]

 

 

[snip]

 

There's a small amount of white corrosion on both -ve and +ve battery leads - anything to worry about?

 

Yes, as it can cause high resistance, as above.

Clean with warm water and a mild acid, dry and coat with silicone or petroleum jelly.

 

 

Thanks for all that. I'll clean the battery terminals, if the rain and wind ever go away.

[Llanigraham]

Hi Graham, there's a recent thread in the Superb II forum suggesting the original batteries are not wonderful. There is also an outline of how to test for battery drain. If you can't find it pm me and I'll look.

Good luck.

 

Huw, it's not me that's got the problem! However I'm sure that Moonman would like to see it.

[Moonman2]

Huw, it's not me that's got the problem! However I'm sure that Moonman would like to see it.

 

Found it and in the middle of watching it, thank-you

 

Unfortunately my multimeter only handles 400mA, so I suspect that would get fried if I tried to put it in series. I'll see if I track down a beefier one from a friend, and then go looking for "parasitic leaks". Hopefully it's the radio, as another poster found.

[Barneyboy48]

On 04/12/2012 at 16:17, Moonman2 said:

I hopped into my (less than one-year-old) 170 to go to the shops, switched the ignition on and - many strange lights in the dashboard pods and then a "bong" and a message "Error : Stabilisation Control (ESC)" appears.

If I turn the ignition key further round to try to start the car then there's a rattling or buzzing sound, hard to describe, from all over the dash board and many more lights coming on on the dashboard and the engine doesn't start.

I tried waiting a while, and I've pushed the ESC button (the one that shows a car sliding around the road) a few times in case that caused anything to reset, but nothing. Rats.

Anybody else experienced this? I'm hoping it's "just" the electronics that have got them themselves in a tizzy and that there might be some simple way to reset things.

Off to read the Skoda Assist booklet to see just what level of cover they provide!

Hi,

 

I'm new on this forum.

 

I seem to have had a similar problem.   I have a 4.5 year old L&K, with no serious faults other than a persistent leaking sunroof which seems to have been rectified now although I am keeping an eye on it. 

 

I called out the breakdown this morning.  The guy turned up in record time and attached his jumpers to the battery and it started first crack.

 

There were a number of lights still showing on the dash and the revs would not go above 2500rpm even with his foot to the boards.  He said a bit vaguely that it had gone into some sort of "limp mode"

 

I'm taking it in tomorrow and they'll have to find time for me because I've been through the mill with this car now and I'm not happy about this.  I was lucky that I was within spitting distance of home and not stuck up in the wilds of the Yorkshire Dales or somewhere.

 

Has anybody any clue to what this "limp mode" is all about?

 

What I have noticed is that certain electronically controlled things I have tried, such as my folding wing mirrors and dash buttons for anti-skid and all wheel drive are reacting slowly.

 

I'd appreciate any input. 

[Llanigraham]

7 minutes ago, Barneyboy48 said:

Hi,

 

I'm new on this forum.

 

I seem to have had a similar problem.   I have a 4.5 year old L&K, with no serious faults other than a persistent leaking sunroof which seems to have been rectified now although I am keeping an eye on it. 

 

I called out the breakdown this morning.  The guy turned up in record time and attached his jumpers to the battery and it started first crack.

 

There were a number of lights still showing on the dash and the revs would not go above 2500rpm even with his foot to the boards.  He said a bit vaguely that it had gone into some sort of "limp mode"

 

I'm taking it in tomorrow and they'll have to find time for me because I've been through the mill with this car now and I'm not happy about this.  I was lucky that I was within spitting distance of home and not stuck up in the wilds of the Yorkshire Dales or somewhere.

 

Has anybody any clue to what this "limp mode" is all about?

 

What I have noticed is that certain electronically controlled things I have tried, such as my folding wing mirrors and dash buttons for anti-skid and all wheel drive are reacting slowly.

 

I'd appreciate any input. 

 

At four and a half years old the battery probably needs to be replaced. That seems to be the typical age for them failing.

 

Yes there will be lights on, but once you start moving they should go out.
The rev limit is normal when in neutral and is there to protect the engine form over-reving. It does not sound like it was in "limp mode"

 

All the other "problems" seem to typical of those that occur when the battery is failing, and which have been covered numerous times previously on this forum. I suspect that when you get a new battery fitted it will all be fine.

[Robjon]

I agree with Graham.  Assuming connections to battery terminals and earth are clean and tight, the symptoms are indicative of a failing battery.

[Barneyboy48]

1 hour ago, Llanigraham said:

At four and a half years old the battery probably needs to be replaced. That seems to be the typical age for them failing.

Hi,

 

Thanks for your response.  That may have cleared up a couple of things I was not aware of, in particular the 2500 rpm limiting.

 

Regarding the battery, I am flabbergasted that a modern battery only lasts 4.5 years and in my case less than 23,000 miles.  All of the cars I have owned in the last 30+ years I haven't had to replace a battery.  I haven't even had to put one on charge overnight.  I don't think that I still have a battery charger!

 

Maybe it was a faulty battery in the first place?

 

This is quite concerning.

[kenfowler3966]

Low mileage has probably contributed to the problem, the battery may well have not been charging properly with lots of short trips.

In practice low mileage cars can often be a lot less reliable than high mileage ones where the oil gets properly hot and battery fully charged regularly.

Low mileage typically means lots of short trips with a cold engine leading to excessive wear as well.

Edited 14 April, 2019 by kenfowler3966

[Llanigraham]

7 hours ago, Barneyboy48 said:

Hi,

 

Thanks for your response.  That may have cleared up a couple of things I was not aware of, in particular the 2500 rpm limiting.

 

Regarding the battery, I am flabbergasted that a modern battery only lasts 4.5 years and in my case less than 23,000 miles.  All of the cars I have owned in the last 30+ years I haven't had to replace a battery.  I haven't even had to put one on charge overnight.  I don't think that I still have a battery charger!

 

Maybe it was a faulty battery in the first place?

 

This is quite concerning.

 

I'm afraid that modern cars make much greater demands on batteries than cars in the past, and a mileage of just around 5k a year, so presumably many short journeys, will not have helped the situation. 
Many people do not realise that once a battery shows a resting voltage of less than 11.8v it is basically knackered, so I'm sorry but your concern is unfounded. Certainly there have been numerous examples of this battery situation on this forum, and elsewhere, and not just with Skodas. It affects all makes with complicated and sophisticated electronic systems.

[Barneyboy48]

Yup, you were right.

 

I went out in it this morning and ran it around 20 miles.  Parked up on Aldi and did a bit of shopping, came back and the bugger wouldn't start again.  This was after talking to Skoda and being reassured that there was at least another year left in it.

 

I got started again and dropped it down at the dealer.  They have it now with a battery on order.

 

I was a bit shocked by the price they gave me for the replacement.  £155 for a 420A 70Ah with a 3 year warranty.

 

I happened to go into Halfords earlier on looking for load testers and I glanced at the batteries.  None of the prices were anywhere near £155, in fact I saw this one which if I understand correctly is a much more powerful battery:

 

 https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-batteries/yuasa-hsb096-silver-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee

 

My only problem is getting it from Skoda to Halfords.  I feel I may be buying an inferior battery at a really high price.

[Rustynuts]

Go to Halfords and buy the battery. Taxi to the dealers. Fit the battery, drive home.

 

Bonus aplenty there, as you don't get to pay over the odds for a battery, and you don't get Halfords monkeys trying to fit it.

[kenfowler3966]

Check it is compatible first as the Yeti can need a specific type of battery, coded via vcds to work correctly if your car has stop start etc.

[Barneyboy48]

3 hours ago, kenfowler3966 said:

Check it is compatible first as the Yeti can need a specific type of battery, coded via vcds to work correctly if your car has stop start etc.

I don't have stop/start on my model.

 

Evidently that's another battery drainer!

 

I sourced the Yasuda by entering my details on the Halford's website and that's what it came up with, so I'm assuming it's compatible.  But, I'm not a very good position as my car is now immobile and with Skoda.

 

I think I'm going to have to live with the rip off battery this time around.  I have £200 to spare in a compensation balance anyway from when Skoda UK gave me a good will payment for having had to suffer sunroof problems since it was 18 months old.  They gave me £400 in total.  I have had to have a further three panoramic sunroofs fitted as a result of leakages into footwells.  Its spent many weeks at the dealership.  I am getting really disappointed with it now but I can't afford to change just yet.

 

This is what happens when you buy top of the range.  £28,500 down and a sieve.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if most of the battery draining was done when they were working on it.

 

Sometimes when I have done just a short 5 miles down the road, the electric cooling fan kicks in and continues for about 10-15 minutes after I've locked up - what the hell is that all about?  That's also got to be a drainer.

 

What's a VCD?

[Rustynuts]

Fans running will be a dpf regen. It has to do that unfortunately.

[widdershins]

5 hours ago, kenfowler3966 said:

Check it is compatible first as the Yeti can need a specific type of battery, coded via vcds to work correctly if your car has stop start etc.

Wasn't aware of that, good to know as mine is coming up to 4 yrs old.  Usually not averse to doing things like bulbs, batteries, and wipers myself so I'd have just done what I'd have done in the past and gone down the local factors, buy one the right size and rating, and shove it in.  Then wonder why the thing still didn't start.  So if you don't have VCDS you're stuffed for a DIY battery change on a stop/start FL Yeti?

[Barneyboy48]

1 hour ago, widdershins said:

Wasn't aware of that, good to know as mine is coming up to 4 yrs old.  Usually not averse to doing things like bulbs, batteries, and wipers myself so I'd have just done what I'd have done in the past and gone down the local factors, buy one the right size and rating, and shove it in.  Then wonder why the thing still didn't start.  So if you don't have VCDS you're stuffed for a DIY battery change on a stop/start FL Yeti?

C'mon guys,  what's a VCDS?  Also what's a DPF?

 

Its like watching Line of Duty!

Edited 15 April, 2019 by Barneyboy48

[longedge]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VAG-COM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

[Barneyboy48]

12 hours ago, longedge said:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VAG-COM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

Thanks for that.  Now I understand!

 

Where I worked before retiring everybody seemed to feel the need to talk in abbreviations.  It was like Robin Williams (Adrian Cronauer) in Good Morning Vietnam!

 

So, if I have a 2014 Yeti L&K that does not have stop/start, is my car included in this?  Or can I fit any old battery as long as it fits the space?

 

Halfords was my first port of call.  I'm not a fan or anything.  Its the only third party car spares retailer in the area.  When I was a kid, there were so many "Motor Factors" selling out of what could be described as car enthusiast Aladdin's Caves.  We had one in Willenhall called "Motor Aids", which is probably long gone now.  Shame.  You get anything from a pair of Cibbies to a DIY fit it yourself electronic ignition system, (for those cars with a distributor and rotor arm  - remember them!)

 

When searching for the Yasuda on the Halford's website, I had no idea what it would come up with.  You enter your registration and it comes up with the details from the DVLA (obviously).

 

It knows your engine type and size and even knows the colour of your paintwork.  But does it know anything about the VCDS?

 

How would I find out if they actually provide a suitable battery - I mean they have a shop full of them.  Are they all of no use and have the car manufacturers moved to captivating more spares so that they can rip the owners off again and again?

[idleness]

You will struggle to find cheaper than this:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/096-Powerline-Car-Battery-12V-72AH-610A-4-YEAR-WARRANTY-MORE-POWER/272526700880

 

Which is what I have in mine since the original battery failed

[pkyyyy]

I was in a similar situation to this on holiday but was north of Ullapool. I had a brand new battery fitted before leaving for holiday. I replaced the battery because it was 7 years old but didn't have any symptoms of failing.

 

I started suffering from what I thought was parasitic drain. Luckly had a jump starter on me in another car. When I took it to an auto electrician, they diagnosed it straight away as the new battery. The battery was a Bosch S5 from Eurocarparts. Put it down to just my luck to receive a dud but made me want to pull my hair out on holiday.

 

Replaced it with one from Halfords as they where reasonably priced and convenient that day.

[freedie]

My experience of Eurocarparts is that they will replace/refund any duff item at all...