Poor brakes

[Breckie]

It's a 1.8 TSI. Just wondering if the brake servo has gone west. Only just over 10,000 miles & about a year & a half old.

When starting off the first "touch" of the brakes feels like almost no brakes at all. That's the case for the first few uses of the brakes. Seems to get a bit better after that. From distant memory the brake pedal should go down slightly (with your foot on the brake) when starting the car. That doesn't happen.........so does that mean that the servo is goosed?

NOTE 1: Yes I'll take it immediately to the dealer when they open.

NOTE 2: No sign of any leaks & car doesn't pull to any one side.

[jezzep]

If the servo is dead then it would feel the same as if the engine is not running...

However if the brake pedal is spongy it probably is something else....check fluid levels as well. It could be something quite simple though such as the feed to the servo unit.

Br

JeZ

[Ootohere]

Did you give a little visual inspection of the brake pads to see if they are getting near to needing replaced?

george

[Breckie]

Ta.....brake pads OK. Pedal isn't really "spongy"......more a case of stand on the brakes & it will stop but not as before.

[mannyo]

Did you give a little visual inspection of the brake pads to see if they are getting near to needing replaced?

george

At 10K miles I would expect the pads to still be like new, unless something is very seriously wrong. I made 100K miles in my previous Octavia, and they were still good when I sold the car.

I'd be checking the vacuum hoses for leaks or looseness.

[Ootohere]

I also expect them to be like new.

(The pads and the discs)

But cars that have sat on Dealership Forecourts, Ex DEmonstrators, little used cars and Skodas in general that have Discs that can show surface rust over night and Corrosion after one winter need checked.

The pads can wear fast, from many circumstances, sticky calipers being the worst offender.

& then there are drivers that are always on the brakes and never decelerating using gears.

Simple Visual inspections are free & should be done more often IMO.

Too many 'assumptions being made' in Garages by Technicians etc, Receptionists, Service Managers.

george

Long Live the Old SKool Mechanic or Home Bodger.

You look for the obvious & simple answer and then sometimes find 'the seriously wrong'.

eg Under 5000 mile Ex Demonstrator, 14 months old.

Straight from a Skoda Dealership.

[andyspan]

It's a 1.8 TSI. Just wondering if the brake servo has gone west. Only just over 10,000 miles & about a year & a half old.

When starting off the first "touch" of the brakes feels like almost no brakes at all. That's the case for the first few uses of the brakes. Seems to get a bit better after that. From distant memory the brake pedal should go down slightly (with your foot on the brake) when starting the car. That doesn't happen.........so does that mean that the servo is goosed?

NOTE 1: Yes I'll take it immediately to the dealer when they open.

NOTE 2: No sign of any leaks & car doesn't pull to any one side.

Yes you are right, a test for servo is to pump the pedal a few times with the engine not running and then hold the pressure on the pedal whilst starting the engine, the pedal should creep down a little. If this doesn't happen then the servo or vacuum pipes may be the cause.

[rockhopper]

How about glazed pads? They don't work too well either.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[looby]

Recent rain?

[Llanigraham]

Agree on that last one!!

I immersed mine for about half a mile last night and they were cr ap for the next application, and because of all the "clever" electronics you can't left-foot brake to dry them, as that cuts the revs!!

[g6zru]

Do the electronics hide what I would have thought would have been obvious if the servo failed? i.e The need to stand on the brake pedal to get any retardation.

Fred

[Llanigraham]

Doubt it.

[Breckie]

Thanks for the replies folks. Strangely the brakes seemed to "come back" from their previous "dead" (lack of servo ??) feeling. Managed to nip it into the dealers who gave it the once over & said everything seemed OK. As other presenters have pointed out there is corrosion on the discs although the pads are fine. It's what I get I suppose for doing a low mileage. :think:

[nickguzzi]

Could have been glazed pads/discs then? Mine certainly improve after the elaborazioni italiano di freni.

[Breckie]

Could have been glazed pads/discs then? Mine certainly improve after the elaborazioni italiano di freni.

........Eh no. :no:

Nothing in the braking system was or has been changed. The only difference is that the brakes now appear to work as before.........which they didn't for a period.......if you see what I mean. :think:

Unless it happens again then it's a mystery I'm afraid.

[AndyC]

I had a simalar problem on a Mk1 Octy I had years ago. Brakes would sometimes seem to fade as if the servo wasn't working. Turned out to be a hose somewhere in the servo system. Problem cured when it was replaced.

Andy

[Llanigraham]

........Eh no. :no:

Nothing in the braking system was or has been changed. The only difference is that the brakes now appear to work as before.........which they didn't for a period.......if you see what I mean. :think:

Unless it happens again then it's a mystery I'm afraid.

I don't think Nick is implying that anything has been added or changed, just that they have improved following a few decent brake applications, akin to the similar "Auto Strada decoke" favoured prior to an MOT Test.

[The Plumber]

The TDI 110 4x4 is under braked IMHO; the front callipers are the same as those fitted to our 1.2 Fabia's (70 & 86PS respectively) and the disks are only fractionally larger. Also not helped by what appears to be excessive front bias and in my case regular seizing of the rear pads in the callipers, with resulting corroded rear discs; new ones in order soon despite little wear as their just going rotten Not the best design there Mr. Bosch :no: The Lucas rear discs on the previous early 140 were much better; take note Mr. Skoda :yes:

TP

[the_raz]

Moist on the discs? I have noted with our current Roomster (Yes, I know, different car, but it might be the same cause) that when driving in wet weather the brakes are not really functioning at all when first braking. After half a second our so (forever when you want to slow down) the brakes grip again, and the braking power is the same as always.

[nickguzzi]

Glazed pads are common when the brakes are not applied fiercely enough and the pads, and sometimes the discs, form a hard low friction surface. Eventually the coeficient of friction is low enough to notice. A few hard applications (usual disclaimers) will most times get rid of the glaze, but it can eventually a more involved job, skimming/replacing of discs + new pads. Aftermarket pads can be a bit of a leap into the unknown in this respect.

I think the problems occurs mainly with people who drive "properly" ie smoothly and anticipating obstacles rather than hooning around, trying to become the last of the late brakers.

Modern compounds are more susceptible than the asbestos ones of old.

Of course your problem may be caused by a few other possibilities, but a few hard stops is easy and almost free.

[Breckie]

Interesting thoughts. I suppose that the addition of a large husky in the rear usually leads to much anticipation & gentle use of the brakes. Might be slightly different on my own but don't tell SWMBO.

[33q]

I'm very light on brakes....so I think my pads/discs may get glazed some times.

I corrected them today due to the actions of a stupid Corsa driver who chose to overtake me just as 2 lanes become one forcing his way in front and then slamming his brakes on.

My ABS works....always good to know!

[The Plumber]

Talking of soaked pads has reminded me on, that the Octy I 4x4 Turbo we had did not have splash guards on the brakes as modern Skoda's tend to have. Consequently prolonged driving in heavy rain without using the brakes resulted in no brakes on the next application, for what seemed an age before friction dried them out and you stopped. Not the best design on a 150PS turbocharged motor :S

TP

[rafi_arch]

SERVO DIY TEST:

With engine off - apply several deep strokes on the brake pedal. You will notice the pedal slightly rising after each stroke. Stop strokes as the pedal reaches highest point. Apply firm pressure on pedal and hold it. If pedal stays at this position - 1st stage of test passes.

While pressing on the pedal, switch on the engine. You should feel the pedal being sucked down having the normal travel - 2nd stage of test passes.

Can't remember but I think handbrake should be released.

From brakes section in an old manual - either Haynes workshop manual or car handbook of Peugeot 304 MY 1973 my mother owned long ago.