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RNS 510 update from 1164

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It's from Nov 2007

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  • Hi Adam!   After some quality time with my soldering Iron I can happily say it's complete and working properly!!     Although my wife is less enthusiastic, I know that next time parking the car w

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I would say its definitely behind the wipers at that age.  Did you remove the cover sealed with three nuts?

 

Adam

Agree with Adam.

Nov 2007 will almost certainly be under the rubber cover. (With three nuts) behind the scuttle panel and wiper assembly.

Once you've opened that cover you'll see the connector and wiring on top of the gateway box.

Think it might be a slight difference on right hand drive cars - seems a little lower than it is on mine.

 

Adam

Hi Guys,

 

Yup a little different it is!

 

I Have a small question from your earlier posts regarding OPS retrofit:

Now you can see the controller on the inside of the wheel arch, with three plugs, one bigger 16 pin brown plug and two smaller 12 pin (brown and black) plugs for the sensors. Pull them all out and take off the old controller (two nuts), and then put the new one in its place. On the 16 pin plug, take the cover off and extract pins 3, 7 and 14, these are no longer needed, so insulate them off and cable tie them to the loom away from the action. The CAN wire you attached to CAN high should go into pin 6, and the wire you attached to CAN low should go into pin 15. I soldered a small piece of repair wire onto the end of each wire to provide the terminals.

 

Can High pin 6 and Can low pin 15, basically you have cut both of these wires off and soldered the end-piece on the new CAN wires?

 

Or do I have to solder them in? Just to be sure here :D

 

Thanks!

 

Arjan

Oh and Adam, one more:

If you have front sensors the new controller requires a second pdc buzzer to be installed (the old one managed with just the one). If you want OEM, the other loom you ran earlier needs to be connected to pins 3 and 4 of the smaller brown plug (they will be empty), and the other end of the loom is then run behind the dash to the speaker which is attached to the ledge just to the left of the steering wheel, and accessible from the hole the top box sits in, or from the hole for the stereo (you needn’t remove the stereo, but its easier if you do). Again you use the repair wires to provide the terminals and solder them to each end of the loom.

 

So I need to run new wires to the front as I have front and back? This I did not take into account yet... So I might need to open it up again :(. If you could re-specify this section would be greatly appreciated.

The old controller had separate outputs to each of the rear sensors , but the new combines the positive and negative of all four to a common pin. So take the eight positive (blacks) and negative (browns) pins out of the black 12 pin plug, cut the terminals off, join the four positives, join the four negatives, and then solder a terminal onto each join. Plug into pins 8 (negative) and 11 (positive).

Here you are telling me I can cut the 8+'es and solder them on one terminal, and also for the minus. I do this for the front and backs??? Maybe you can also re-specify this one, as I might mess this up and end up with pounds of solder :)

 

Thanks!

 

Arjan

Technically you can put the second buzzer anywhere but I preferred it up front. If you do too, you will need more wiring and trim removal yes.

And yes you can just solder on the old terminals I guess. I actually used ready made repair wire terminals but it is the same thing. Do it as close to the connector as possible so you don't unwind the twist in the can pair.

On the last point it relates to the rear sensor plug only as I recall, the front plug is already wired that way. So take the four positives and solder join them to a single terminal, and then join into pin 11. Do the same for the four negatives and plug into pin 8. The number eight I quoted in that context was for four positives plus four negatives. There is a wiring diagram at the bottom of hell666s post here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243174-upgrade-can-gateway-to/#entry2899711

Cheers

Adam

Hi Adam!

 

After some quality time with my soldering Iron I can happily say it's complete and working properly!!

 

 
Although my wife is less enthusiastic, I know that next time parking the car will not leave me going to the spray painter :D
 

Thanks very much for your support, and next week the BT module should be going in ;)

 

Arjan

Hey well done, and welcome to the pre fl ops club!!! Its my favourite mod on mine even though my mrs was equally uninterested!!!

Mine too...

Whilst the beeps have been out of action due to a wiring issue, she hasn't complained once.

Well done for getting it finished.

Is your car an estate/combi? If not, you can change that picture to show a hatchback version of the Octavia...

Hi Guys, 

 

Well I'm just extremely happy with the setup :)

 

I actually ordered the proper extra beeper when getting the module and installed it at the OEM location up front under the dash-top-box. Everything was fitting perfectly and when it was open I installed my USB charger and tied it up to the cigarette lighter's wires.

 

I'll play around with the volume tomorrow as I feel they are a bit loud now. Anyone felt they had to place the second beeper on a different location or is this also the OEM place for the later models? I think my Golf6 sounded like it was a little more to the back, although on comparison around anymore...

 

I had programmed it at long coding 100002 I think which is proper for an estate, so I'm good there!

 

After parking it twice now, she really is loving the pretty looking picture though (previously a Stream MP3) :D  :rofl:

 

My other 'best' mod is the DPF-OFF/EGR-OFF and Remapped ECU, but I have not done that myself so not really feeling the same level of satisfaction as to the latest mod  :think: .

 

She is running at 180 bhp now, and long runs ~20% more fuel efficient (1 ltr on 20 / 20.5 Km).

 

Will let you know how my loom install and BT upgrade will go ;)

 

The AC+AQ sensor and new frame install will have to wait until I've managed to hide some funds from the aforementioned spouse  :blush:

 

Thanks again !

 

Arjan

Edited by Verlaanac

My '07 had two he's pre drilled for the buzzer behind the steering wheel, which is the correct place, and I've never found it to be wrong.

I have adjusted pitch & volume of both buzzers to suit though.

Snap.

Adam

Hi Guys,

 

Just received the Unit from SlavishSpace, and will install it in the morning!

 

So one small question: I think the unit is a Parrot device basically. Is there any Firmware update required / possible?

 

Thanks!

 

Arjan

Isnt it a 5k0 d module?

HI Adam,

 

Yes it is, 5K0 ... D. I thought that range was all Parrot internal?

Never heard of any association with Parrot.

Some earlier modules were made by Nokia.

Learnt something new today...

I have never noticed that either but I am not aware of any means by which you can update the units.  Have you bought a loom also?  Note you won't need the GSM antenna for this module.

 

Adam

So....

 

All is in! Loom, Mic and unit, and here is the result:

 

Works like a charm, I did have to do a factory reset on the unit to get BT up and running, and coded for voice control (which is a little too slow ;) )

 

So no unit SW upgrades possible, that is too bad! 

 

Is there a way to get your track from BT streaming audio displayed on the unit, or am I just asking too much now from an aged setup?!

 

;)

 

Thx!

I don't think it does show the track details via BT streaming.

I'll go and check mine though - I use MDI to connect my phone.

Just been and checked and it does show full track details.

I'm sure it never used to!

Maybe the iOS update has changed something or my memory is going...

I think it depends on the phone. When I had that BT unit, it worked for my phone but not my son's.

 

Some of the very new modules (I have just discovered) appear to have a usb port, presumably for some kind of firmware update...

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