Best way to run in the new CTHE engine?

[grapo]

There has been some debate about the best way to run the old CAVE engine to make sure it doesn't have any oil issues. Can we collate oil issues from the NEW CTHE engine, and the ways people have run them in. I don't think it has been proved that the new engine has solved oil usage problems entirely. Any thoughts?

[PulsarET]

I would like to know this as well.

Edited 26 March, 2013 by PulsarET

[Evil Miyagi]

Drive it normally...

[James I]

drive it like you stole it!

My CAV engine was driven steady and used oil, I take it to the track and rev the balls of it for over 50 laps of Oulton park and it used no oil.

So when you get the car, drive it as though you would normally

[MilgeS]

Gave mine a few short hard blasts in first 500 miles, rest of time it plods around, using oil. Giving it the first trip on a motorway/dual this week hopefully, 2 hour non stop both ways so will be interesting to see what the oil does.

[Yeti-RS]

mine hasnt used a drop in 1500 miles, stop start city traffic and long distance at 70mph+

[grapo]

Is there any evidence at all that driving style over the first few thousand miles influences overall oil usage?

[James I]

Is there any evidence at all that driving style over the first few thousand miles influences overall oil usage?

NO.

[XK140]

NO.

Exactly...so my advice would be to do what it says in the handbook.

[grapo]

A lot of people ran the CAVE engine in as per the handbook and had all sorts of problems. Others thrashed it and had none. Coincidence or is it just pot luck?

[Ootohere]

Some engines were built with Sub Standard parts or Manufacturing tolerances.

Run in, the Tyres, Brakes, Suspension and Drivetrain by giving them an easy few hundred miles.

That will give the engine an easy start and then just drive as usual.

The Engine might well have had the nuts revved off it from cold within the first 3 miles of Transportation,

& then in the 15 miles of the PDI and being taken to get fuel put in its tank.

I would never knowingly buy a New Car that is going to be road Delivered by a Delivery Driver to the Dealer or your Home,

but often you never know how a car was treated before you actually get it.

(when its arrived at the Dealership, you can just hope its been given an easy life up to delivery.)

They are not made of Chocolate, but a Twincharger does benefit from the Oil getting up to an indicated 50 Degrees Celsius before being used hard.

(& does benefit from 98 RON fuel or above, but that is well enough debated, and many disagree.)

Enjoy the new car.

george

[sharkrider]

As George says, people often forget the Tyres and brakes really DO need running in before they will give proper performance, again, like the others, I will be driving my engine 'normally' from day one

[grapo]

I will probably run it in normally (normal driving). Just wondered how many we're having problems with the new engine too, and whether running I could affect this.

[SuperTurbo]

My car was an ex demo with the cthe engine so probably had the nuts revved off it since day one, I bought it at 1400 miles. 1000 miles later after some hard driving it hasn't used a drop of oil

[Jabozuma]

Depends on who do you wish to listen to.

Manual urges drivers of brand new cars to take it easy for the prescribed amount of miles - no full throttle, early changes, no high speeds etc.

Some peeps here did it like that and some of them had problems some didn't

Then you have the "rev the nuts off it brigade" trashing their cars form the word go. They seem to be reporting no problems. If they havethem they are not very keen to own up and attribute them to their style of driving.

Then you have the pro tuners way, to which I personally subscribe.

It is rooted in the theory and practice of the internal combustion engines. Initially it isall about sealing the rings against the bores. Care has to be taken not to overheat either of them in the process. To do that it is recommended to drive normally/gently to the point where engine is warm. Then in high gears apply lots of throttle (avoid kick back) but change up before revs rise above 3.5k (my arbitrary figure, half way up the rev range). WHat this does is creates high pressure in the cylinder (100% open throttle). This pushes the rings against the bores hard at low piston speeds preventing overheating and damage. This seals the the rings against the bores in the best possible way. Tuners claim that a well run-in engine can have up to 10% more power than identical but not well run in.

On top of that you need to heat cycle the engine. So after a few miles of the above let it coast from high'ish speeds in top gear without throttle to cool it down. rinse and repeat. I'd done for few hundred miles. Then I decided I could not contain myself anymore, got the oil to 90C and red line it through the gears. Which was followed by a cooling down.

My one used 1ltr of oil in 5,000 miles since November.

Then you have the brakes, suspension etc to be worked on.

I think the above addresses cylinder sealing and internal bearing surfaces running in as well as heat cycling.

Whether this is the best solution I do not know. I make sure I adhere to a motto "A Redline a Day keeps mechanic away" .

[Jabozuma]

One more very important thing. Try not leave it idling for any longer than absolutely necessary as this may lead to glazed bores, something you'd like to avoid at all costs!

[grapo]

Thanks jabo. Pretty good oil usage from yours. I've had new cars before and they have all used some oil whilst running in, so I wouldn't expect this one to be any different in that respect.

[Big Sheep]

I'll second Jabo's running in advice! It has worked for me on my second engine (much easier when you haven't got to be concerned about being gentle on a brand new car and when you are already familiar with how to drive it in manual).

Take a day or two off work, find some clear roads and have a plan in your head about how you are going to drive it. I did 500 miles in the first day with a cool down in between. Whatever you do, don't sit on the motorway at constant revs or get stuck in slow moving commuter traffic. Use full throttle in high gears frequently once the engine is warm to create pressure in the cylinders. I did avoid red lining in the first few hundred miles, but have not held back since.

Do check that your dealer has not over filled the engine with oil. Check the oil level once warm. If overfilled (as mine was) take it back.

[grapo]

The route back from the dealer to my house is likely to be 30 odd miles of commuter traffic! Will try the other things you have mentioned though.

[Jabozuma]

If I had time to do it I'd torque honed the bores, sorted out he valves and did a lab setup of the fuelling system. But I don't and I have a 5-years warranty to boot so wth, I will just enjoy my stock vRS no holds barred . Just doing propoer torque hone of the bores and spending hours on mating valves with their seats can give you exeptional results - many more PSIs in your pots!

Edited 27 March, 2013 by Jabozuma

[philhoward]

When I had my new engine fitted a few weeks ago, I had a 500 mile drive from the dealers in Belgium to home, bar the tunnel it was non stop, so didn't really have the luxury of doing anything but sitting with the rest of the traffic. Where conditions permitted, I did give it some beans in 7th occasionally...

Good news is its done more miles without needing topping up than the last one from new. As its below zero here and not got upto temp in over a weeks driving, I haven't done a level check. As I've said before, that's why it's got a low level light in my opinion (George may disagree). If I remember, I'll check it whilst waiting for the Chunnel tomorrow evening...

[BTSvRS]

Depends on who do you wish to listen to.

Manual urges drivers of brand new cars to take it easy for the prescribed amount of miles - no full throttle, early changes, no high speeds etc.

Some peeps here did it like that and some of them had problems some didn't

Then you have the "rev the nuts off it brigade" trashing their cars form the word go. They seem to be reporting no problems. If they havethem they are not very keen to own up and attribute them to their style of driving.

Then you have the pro tuners way, to which I personally subscribe.

It is rooted in the theory and practice of the internal combustion engines. Initially it isall about sealing the rings against the bores. Care has to be taken not to overheat either of them in the process. To do that it is recommended to drive normally/gently to the point where engine is warm. Then in high gears apply lots of throttle (avoid kick back) but change up before revs rise above 3.5k (my arbitrary figure, half way up the rev range). WHat this does is creates high pressure in the cylinder (100% open throttle). This pushes the rings against the bores hard at low piston speeds preventing overheating and damage. This seals the the rings against the bores in the best possible way. Tuners claim that a well run-in engine can have up to 10% more power than identical but not well run in.

On top of that you need to heat cycle the engine. So after a few miles of the above let it coast from high'ish speeds in top gear without throttle to cool it down. rinse and repeat. I'd done for few hundred miles. Then I decided I could not contain myself anymore, got the oil to 90C and red line it through the gears. Which was followed by a cooling down.

My one used 1ltr of oil in 5,000 miles since November.

Then you have the brakes, suspension etc to be worked on.

I think the above addresses cylinder sealing and internal bearing surfaces running in as well as heat cycling.

Whether this is the best solution I do not know. I make sure I adhere to a motto "A Redline a Day keeps mechanic away" .

Sounds like really good advice, been looking for this for when I hopefully get my new engine fitted.

When you talk about lots of throttle in high gears and changing up at around 3.5k, what would you suggest as a high gear? like 4/5 upwards?

Regards,

Ben.

[Ootohere]

Each to their own,

Sorry but its an Automatic car, just drive it and use the gears as required.

No need to thrash a new engine in any gear.

New Replacement Engine in used cars, will have used already Gearbox and drive train, best look after the car and if you are going fast then the engine will be going fast.

george

[Jabozuma]

That is one school of thought George, and many people, including yourself, applied it rather successfully . I believe in the pro tuners way as I agree with mechanical and physics basis behind it. I also done in four stroke karting engines with great success. My vRS is not too bad with oil either. I can't wait to drop the oil and send a sample to the lab ! When I read about how much data could be had from a small sample of oil I was amazed!

[Lukeskywalker]

I drove my Fabia like I stole it from day one and I have no problems with oil consumption, I don't do anything special in the way I drive it, if I need to put my foot down then so be it, I personally think treating the car with kid gloves does it no favours.

Ron.