Hi,

I have the same problem, all droppinf down to zero!

Could you please describe in more detail the removal solution of the number 15 fuse?

Thanks!

Tezca

hi rachchris as u can tell, im a newbie. ive just read your post, about dash needles dropping to zero all the time, i have a 99 octy 1.6 glx i.

iv'e just been to my motor, removed the number 15 fuse, and everything has started working again, i can't believe it, i just want to sat thank you so much for your post, it's really helped a lot. cheers mate.

Could you please describe in more detail the removal solution of the number 15 fuse?

- Open drivers door

- remove fuse cover panel

- locate fuse 15

- remove fuse 15 (and store in a safe location)

- replace fuse cover panel

- close door

This "fix" works, as a voltage regulator on the dash circuit board has a dry joint on it. The removal of fuse 15 causes power to get to the gauges via another route, although trip information is no longer retained in the cluster (so no average mpg for the last 1000 miles, etc). Don't worry your odometer will keep counting up though.

Guess what, another dash issue. Mine is sporradic at best, pulled the fuse and it still doesnt work. Few questions, does the low fuel light still work? Whats the deal with second hand units, do all cars have immobilisers? Mine is a 99 Octavia TDi. Can they be repaired?

I have the same problem with my 99 TDi Estate, and pulling fuse 15 makes no difference.

Spoke to Hortons Skoda in Lincoln, the dash has to be coded, they will gladly do it, up to half an hours labour so about 40 quid.

Hi folks, 1998 Octavia Estate diesel. Intermittently the four needles on the dash (revs, temp, fuel, speed) all drop to zero while driving. The pop back usually after a while. Sometimes they can be off for an hour or so, sometimes on for an hour or so without fault, usually the gaps between on and off are much shorter than that. Doesn't seem to be related to engine temp, it can do be on or off from cold or after a good run. Occasionally it seems that going over a bump or flicking the indicators on will cause it to go on or off, but it's probably easy to imagine that, and it certainly doesn't consistently respond to these prompts. I've tried switching everything I can think of on and off in case it suddenly makes it work.

Took it to my local Skoda dealer who had a look, scratched their heads and didn't find the problem. They say the next thing to do is take all the dash out, at least �250 worth of work. Way beyond me to tackle, so I think I'll have to let them do it.

But before I do I thought I'd ask here in case anyone has some idea to try before I part with all those pounds, or something I can tell the guys there that might help pinpoint and cure it quickly.

Many thanks for any ideas

Andy

HI there

hmm - i think this information is bit out of date...

probably you allready sold you car but

i had same problem just now and i found easy solution on ebay about 7£ - manual how to solve it -> simply solder it. Dont know how to post pdf file here so you have to look for Repair Manual Instrument Cluster. There is about 15 pages with some pictures and step by step how to do it - realy easy...

here is what is it about:

-…It is a well-known problem of InstrumentClusters from Skoda, VW, Seat, should these malfunctions be indicated at your cartemporarily or permanent. The reason for themalfunction is a so-called ´cold solder joint´on the circuit board of your Instrument Cluster.

Indicated defectsMalfunction of analogue needles-Tachometer-Speedometer

-Coolant Temperature-Refuelling IndicatorIn additional, there can be malfunctions ofsome signal lamps:

-Immobiliser System

-Handbreak

-Signal lamp for oil

-Signal buzzer for light

ProcedureandToolsYou need:

-1 TorxScrewdriverT10

-1 TorxScrewdriverT20

-2 smallSlot Screwdriver

-1 Solderingironwitha finetip

-someSolder

-someSuperglue

-someTapeTime neededforrepairingincl. demountingandmounting:approx. 2 hoursI wouldadviseyou to getallthestatedtoolsandto takeenoughtime fortheprocedure. Do itstep-by-stepandaboveall: beself-confident!Manypeople

havealreadysucceededin thisrepair.

have octavia 2.0 petrol 1999 and need to buy some diagnostic scanner/eraser (vag-com looks too expensive for amateur) i found some VAG scanner or ODB II scaner but i realy dont know which one i need to buy - THANKS FOR SOME ADVICE

thanx very much everyone on here with the help of this forum our needles had dropped in my skoda octavia estate and we didnt know what the problem was so we came on here so went for the cheapest and handiest solution we took out the fuse on number 15 and the needles all bounced into action so we kept the fuse out and needles are still working thanx forum members for the help im happy now :-)

Same problem as well on 2.oi.

 

Fix it last year buy re-soldering three SMD resistors near LVR (opposite side of board) but it strikes back again few days ago.

 

I’ve re-solder it again today, but this time I was paying attention to LVR temperature while driving.

It’s so hot, almost not possible to touch it by hand and it warms up the entire left side of the board. I could only imagine temperatures during hot summer.

The LVR temperature is not so high while driving without lights, but when I turn on indication lights/low beam light, it’s hot as some CPU chipsets.

 

Does anyone knows are these temperatures “normal” or maybe I have some wiring issues as well?

Edited 5 April, 20215 yr by mister8ight