Update (Again!)

In the end I decided to go for the manual intake valve clean as seeing examples on other forums of 100k carbon build up on these valves I cannot see how a 'blow-by' clean would even touch it!

So, after chatting with my very patient VAG specialist I spent today cleaning out the intake valves and ports after he dismantled all of my inlet and rebuilt it all after the job was done. The car certainly feels like it picks up better and the car idles a lot smoother. I cannot comment on the hesitation issue until I go on a long motorway run, but I am (semi) confident that this will have solved the issue looking at the build up on the intake valves!

The owner of the garage took some photos of it before and after so will post them on here once I receive them...

And some pictures as promised... 103k 2.0T FSI...

Some before shots

and then after (all looked the same!)

How does it idle now then mate?

How does it idle now then mate?

A lot, lot smoother. It still has the odd hiccup but apparently that is normal for a TFSI as they do not run totally flat. It was running rough to the point it was rattling something in the engine bay or behind the dash - which has now also disappeared.

I don't know when I am due my next long ish motorway run to check the hesitation issue once its really warmed up but as I said I am hoping its going to sort that aswell!

It took a day of my time and about 3hrs of the mechanic to dismantle and rebuild all the inlet manifold and high pressure full system. The job was made a heck of a lot easier by having the car on a ramp at standing height as I imagine my back would be ruined today!

It is a job that 'could' be done on your driveway - but seeing what tools were required I would have been there hours trying to dismantle and refit without the proper tools and knowhow. I imagine it would be a a £300-350 job at a garage with the new injector seals and inlet manifold gasket included - but thankfully I managed to save a packet as the mechanic let me use his ramp all day and do the time consuming cleaning myself. All I used was a little electrical screwdriver, a pointed small wire brush drill attachment (made for de-coking jobs! £2.50 on eBay) and compressed air to blow it out. No cleaner was really needed apart from a bit of brake cleaner at the end to give it a last wash over.. Using cleaner would have made the job 10 times messier and may not have got the desired effect...

Also checked the cam lobe on the HPFP while we were there and the black surface had just started to come off it. Will probably change that at its next service but nothing to worry about for the time being.

Edited 25 June, 201312 yr by R8MXX

Sounds good I hope that's cured it for you, I still havn't had time to do anything with mine yet but im opening my own place in August so ill have a little play around then.

Completed a 300 mile run while looking for a new car for my friend on Saturday. Mixture of A-Roads and Motorways and I am pleased to announce that the hesitation has completely gone!

 

So if you have a 2.0T FSI in the 100k miler club its worth the money getting the intake valve carbon de-coke done!

Edited 1 July, 201312 yr by R8MXX

Im glad it worked out for you. I thought the head would've had to come off and valve seats cleaned but it worked with just the inlet off. Nice work mate.

Im glad it worked out for you. I thought the head would've had to come off and valve seats cleaned but it worked with just the inlet off. Nice work mate.

 

Thankfully, yes it worked. Head off would have been a massive ballache.

 

Also, did a 70 mile round trip motorway run yesterday - averaged 41mpg at 75mph. Best I have ever seen out of it. Maximum I had got before was on a 50/60mph A-Road run at 38mpg and motorways used to sit around the 35mpg mark at the same speed.

hi just reading your post i have just stripped my inlet off tonight and plan to start de-gunking tomorrow, was your car sort of surging aswell or was it just rough on tickover?

hi just reading your post i have just stripped my inlet off tonight and plan to start de-gunking tomorrow, was your car sort of surging aswell or was it just rough on tickover?

 

The main issue really was the stuttering on acceleration - didn't have any surging as such.

 

But I suppose if its that badly carbon'ed up then it could cause surging if youve got some unwanted carbon stuck in a incorrect position not allowing the opening/closing of the intake valves correctly...

 

Where abouts in Somerset are you based then? 

Hi R8MXX,

It sounds like I have the same issue as you (2007 2.0 TFSI with 106k on the clock) stuttering on idle when cold and hesitation from low revs but seems to clear at higher rpm. Once the engine's warmed through it's fine.

I've been trying for months to diagnose and fix but as yet no luck. I'd be very interested to hear how you get on.

My history if it's useful to you:

> Originally diagnosed as a defective intake manifold (£834.60 fitted) at a Skoda main dealer.

> Second opinion at another main dealer disagreed with this as the cause, and pointed to "incorrect purge flow".

> Wiring checks all ok

> Split breather hose replaced.

> EVAP Systems and Charcoal filter checked out ok.

> Dealer removed connecting hose for pressure valve N80 and manifold pipes, cleaned, reassembled and leak checked - all ok.

> Faults cleared but came back with P1337, P0642, P1643 and P0441.

> Dealer removed throttle body and cleaned throttle body flap of carbon deposits.

> I've tried Ferme Fuel System Cleaner (on dealer advice) and a Seafoam treatment.

> Coil packs have also been changed.

Good luck.

 

Mine is the opposite. Fine at low rpm but under heavy acceleration jerks like mad. Replaced plugs and moved to red coils. Going to buy vcds as otherwise huge bills like you for checking.

 

Have you found the problem yet?

Mine is the opposite. Fine at low rpm but under heavy acceleration jerks like mad. Replaced plugs and moved to red coils. Going to buy vcds as otherwise huge bills like you for checking.

 

Have you found the problem yet?

 

You need to look at the intake valves like I did with mine - if your a high'ish miler (80-100k) I can bet you that its carbon build up causing it... I had hesitiation at between 1800 and 3000 revs before I cleaned it all out!

Search for the post I made around December 2012. My car had this problem -57 plate with 105k miles. Turned out to be oil build up in the intake / back of the intake valves. As it is a direct injection engine there is no "fuel wash" effect on the intake and it gums up like the oven in a student flat. The cure was to clean it (there is an excellent guide on the mkv gti website). It's a long job as the fuel rail has to come out and the actually cleaning is a slow process, but it only cost me 10 hours, 2 cans of carb cleaner, several roles of kitchen towel a special socket bit and a pile of Cotten buds. 10,000 miles on she still runs beautifully.

VCDS won't tell you much, but is helpful when recharging the fuel system as it will tell you the fuel rail pressure.

Search for the post I made around December 2012. My car had this problem -57 plate with 105k miles. Turned out to be oil build up in the intake / back of the intake valves. As it is a direct injection engine there is no "fuel wash" effect on the intake and it gums up like the oven in a student flat. The cure was to clean it (there is an excellent guide on the mkv gti website). It's a long job as the fuel rail has to come out and the actually cleaning is a slow process, but it only cost me 10 hours, 2 cans of carb cleaner, several roles of kitchen towel a special socket bit and a pile of Cotten buds. 10,000 miles on she still runs beautifully.

VCDS won't tell you much, but is helpful when recharging the fuel system as it will tell you the fuel rail pressure.

This is what I have already documented earlier in this thread - this is exactly what I carried out on the engine the middle of last year

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've got the manifold gasket to strip the inlet manifold off and clean it but when I went to start the job following the mk5gti guide, my engine looked completely different.

 

Does anyone have a link to a guide for the TFSI in the 06 Octavia VRS? The fuel rail looked completely different and I couldn't see how it all came off. I'm just a bit wary as it's DI so very high pressure compared to the old 3 bar systems.

Should be very similar the only difference being the older gti's had different connections to the HPFP. What guide did you use?

Not sure now. Might have been this one http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/productdocs/STaSISMTF0turboinstalltransverserev7_2.pdf 

The first part of this guide should help

http://www.stasisengineering.com/sites/default/files/install_pdfs/STaSIS%20MTF%20turbo%20install%20Mk%20V%20rev9.pdf

Hi

I'm still trying to get mine sorted.

The dealer is running out of ideas.

Whats a Ferme fuel system cleaner I've tried searching and nothing comes.

Thanks

Hi

I'm still trying to get mine sorted.

The dealer is running out of ideas.

Whats a Ferme fuel system cleaner I've tried searching and nothing comes.

Thanks

 

What issues are you seeing exactly?

Hi the car is a 2006 with 88k on the clock and full history.

Its had a misfire for a while now.

When you first start up it runs really rough.

It was only low speed but now in all gears upto about 60mph

Its been in 3 times so far first was combined with cambelt change and service.

Part of the manifold was changed then spark plugs.

Its now back in next week.

I followed my misses driving yesterday and it did look like there was a bit of excess fuel coming of the back.

Fuel consumption is slightly down but not by much.

Will a terraclean not help massively with the coking up on these engines?

Will a terraclean not help massively with the coking up on these engines?

Not necessarily as it will only get to the area concerned when valve overlap occurs.I think they have a new product out similar in concept to seafoam I.e you squirt it in via a suitable point.

Seafoam won't work, trust me. If they get to the point where the issues are being seen then it needs manual cleaning - take a look at the photos earlier in this thread of my intake valves!

 

Baldy1926 - when it goes in get them to inspect the intake valves and manual clean them if required... At 88k you could easily have the same issue as me even thou yours in more severe. I also had rough running on idle and hesitation which was dramatically reduced once the manual clean had taken place. Think more and more VRS's are going to start seeing these problems as mileages reach around the 100k marker!

you can do a quick test by removing the filler cap at idle and if it almost dies you know its good, if there is little change you know its done!

 

Can you elaborate on this please? I Pulled the oil cap on idle and the Revs noticeably dropped, but the engine did not stall.

 

I'm going to have a go at cleaning my inlet valve intake.  I believe I need the following parts:

 

• Inlet manifold gasket
• fuel injector seals
• Fuel injector removal tool
• Sea foam/Carb cleaner or the likes
• Oil filter removal tool

Has anyone got part numbers please? Do I need anything else?

Edited 5 October, 201510 yr by planehazza