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Buying a CRD-T tuning box from DTUK


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is there an easy way to fit the boost connection as space is very tight down there?

 

Thanks

 

For me the easy way was to drive the 6 miles to DTUK and ask them to fit it, which they did, in about 5 minutes for free.

 

I need to pop in at some point and get the new map 2 loaded on.

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For me the easy way was to drive the 6 miles to DTUK and ask them to fit it, which they did, in about 5 minutes for free.

 

I need to pop in at some point and get the new map 2 loaded on.

 

well that's plain jammy if you ask me! But wish it was me :happy:

 

Think I've seen this covered on one of the threads by using a piece of stiff wire to hook the connector lock off somehow. If you ring DTUK I'm sure they would explain how.

Finally got it on, after speaking to Stuart. Very fiddly getting plug back on, now off out to work and test!!

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Right I have been enjoying my box today on the standard setting 2,1  I think(may be wrong perhaps DTUK can confirm setting?(vrs cr170), plenty of torque in higher gears, and feels much quicker in lower gears too.

One thing i have noticed is the car feels a bit hesitant in 5th gear around 50-65mph, a bit unresponsive and flat. Above 65 then great.

Any ideas why this is?

I may have a tinker with 2,2 tomorrow

 

Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dear all,

I've read through all this very interesting thread for I was/am considering the opportunity of "tuning" my new O. 1.6 TDI 105HP (which can be described in many positive ways but not... er... "quick").

What leaves me perplexed about all this "tuning" (either via box-addition or re-programming) is the fact that all the providers I found deal only with TURBO engines (either diesel or gasoline).

Now, being (over?)suspicious, I'd say that all this blah-blah about "optimising" really ends up in just raising the turbo pressure to squeeze extra power from the engine.

As the turbo pressure can be raised relatively easily, not an overly sophisticated technology is required to raise power&torque.

Problem is: how does this reflect on reliability, durability and consumption?

As far as consumption is concerned, we all know that power is extracted by the fuel we use and – although some minor optimization can be achieved – the QUANTITY of used fuel (via engine displacement or RPM or overcharging) is directly responsible for the output. Therefore: how can we achieve major performance improvement (+ 25-35%) by simple "tuning" – expecially considering that the engines we're dealing with have already been designed and tuned by big car companies?

Regarding reliability and durability, I'd like to see a thick record of users who "tuned" their cars and THEN used them for at least 60-70,000 km. A couple years' usage of two-three users, sorry, is not sufficient statistic.

My two cents...

Let me give you my thoughts on it as I had WRX for 10 years and had a tunable piggyback box which I could login with my laptop and update maps.

I did all the work by my self on my car, including full exhaust, turbo, etc, etc. eventually when I reached  dyno proved 287HP at the wheels I stopped all this upgrade madness as together with regular truck days it eated a big portion of my paycheck. 

About diesel/petrol saving a lot of ti depends on driving style. My car car could be more economical then stock WRX, all depends of how you drive.

But General rule of thumb, the more HP you push the less economical car became and as you stress different part of engine and drive-train the more chance something will go wrong.

 Why VAG and other car companies not using maximum engine potential? Because they want their car to last longer.

 They sell cars to a different customers, so it needs to be more or less full proof. Against customers who could push their cars/engines to the limit or to customers who simply don't care about their cars as car to certain degree as a living being. Imagine your-self eating bad food late night, or on hot day when you need a rest you force your self to run 42 km marathon. :)

They sell cars to different climate zone, hot, cold, different altitude (which affect turbo pressure) and longevity of parts.

So all these needs to be taken into equation, so if small tuning company  could remove these tolerances, with their remapping or tuning boxes,  designed into cars then its up to tuning company knowledge and know how not to exceed the red line that will lead to engine/drive-train distraction and its up to a customer who is willing to take a risk

 Saying all these, I feel that DTUK has a good reputation with their tuning boxes and I am looking to buy one for my Yeti 2.0TDI 140ps I wish only if they could give ability to a customers do a future maps upgrades as I live now in Taiwan and it will be a little hustle to sent a box in the future to UK for reprograming

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Right I have been enjoying my box today on the standard setting 2,1 I think(may be wrong perhaps DTUK can confirm setting?(vrs cr170), plenty of torque in higher gears, and feels much quicker in lower gears too.

One thing i have noticed is the car feels a bit hesitant in 5th gear around 50-65mph, a bit unresponsive and flat. Above 65 then great.

Any ideas why this is?

I may have a tinker with 2,2 tomorrow

Thanks

How you getting on with 2.2? I've been running 4.1. Seems very responsive but doesn't appear to rev as far with other settings. I went in a 70 mile run the other day mostly 'a' roads and motorway. On the way up I took my time and averaged 61mpg. On the way back I drove more like I'd stole it and still averaged 45mpg (displayed not calculated). I'll change back to 2.2 this week and compare the two. These seem to be the most popular settings.

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How you getting on with 2.2? I've been running 4.1. Seems very responsive but doesn't appear to rev as far with other settings. I went in a 70 mile run the other day mostly 'a' roads and motorway. On the way up I took my time and averaged 61mpg. On the way back I drove more like I'd stole it and still averaged 45mpg (displayed not calculated). I'll change back to 2.2 this week and compare the two. These seem to be the most popular settings.

Hi P, just kept at 2.2 for now but very tempted to go up to 4.2 soon.The car runs well but I have noticed the odd time when it seems a bit unresponsive. Not sure about fuel consumption yet, but i got around 480 miles off the last tank (maxi dot stated 20 miles remaining) which took nearly 54 l - I assume the tank is the same as my old superb which still has another 50+ miles when the maxidot reads zero. Still waiting to get to the magic 500 miles before I fill up, though I have done quite a few short trips since I've had this car. 

Is there much difference between 4,0, 4.1, 4,2? what about 3's? - is there a such a setting?

 

Cheers

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Well had a 4 wheel alignment done at skoda in ashford today, and whilst there they did a complementary health check, which included lights, and under bonnet levels - visual check.

I was not expecting this check, i must say!

There was no mention of the DTUK box fitted, as I was a bit worried they might have seen it and spurted the "warranty blurb".

So either the tech did not see it - which is hard to miss, or he did see it and not mentioned it.

 

The service manager didn't mention it either.

Has anyone left there's in whilst having a service?

 

I'm due one in 3000 miles so will be in late march, but will probably remove it - not looking forward to that as it was a right pain to fit!

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They know now!!! :giggle:

 

would they have not said something to me about it? I did not see any comments on the tech's report from what I could see

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I got my DTUK CRD-T today by Fedex. Btw. it was delivered withing 2 days here to Taiwan.

Andrew is very helpful guy. I placed order over the phone 30 min before he had to leave office for the day and its still was picked up by FEDEX that day.
Outstanding service and customer support!

What is procedure to change a jumper settings?

I took a cover (just to check what this setting at (from the side window it looks like 2 +1), removed screw holding main board in place, but then was hesitant to use more force using screwdriver to pry board up as it seats very tight on the side of connector.

To install it I went to my buddy auto mechanic as he has a lift and it was a breath to plug boost connector from below

Edited by nestorint
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I got my DTUK CRD-T today by Fedex. Btw. it was delivered withing 2 days here to Taiwan.

Andrew is very helpful guy. I placed order over the phone 30 min before he had to leave office for the day and its still was picked up by FEDEX that day.

Outstanding service and customer support!

What is procedure to change a jumper settings?

I took a cover (just to check what this setting at (from the side window it looks like 2 +1), removed screw holding main board in place, but then was hesitant to use more force using screwdriver to pry board up as it seats very tight on the side of connector.

To install it I went to my buddy auto mechanic as he has a lift and it was a breath to plug boost connector from below

 

If you drop me an email Serge i have a small video showing how to "twiddle" the board out of the box :)

 

I set the box on map 2 plus 1, but my advice as it is to everyone is to try all 4 maps on zero/ plus1 and maybe 2 or until you see any kind of management light

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If you drop me an email Serge i have a small video showing how to "twiddle" the board out of the box :)

 

I set the box on map 2 plus 1, but my advice as it is to everyone is to try all 4 maps on zero/ plus1 and maybe 2 or until you see any kind of management light

 Got it :)

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I run default settings 2 +1 as it came with from DTUK it takes about 20 km for stock ECU to relearn a new driving style (when I just installed and drive 5 km from garage to work didn't felt too much difference ) but now feels much better, not running out of breath til 4000rpm, wife even switched to chinese language to tell me she is afraid (I read it as a compliment to DTUK) because she told me the same when I clocked 4.5 sec 0 to 60 in my modified WRX  :angel:

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Interesting observation, I think no one mentioned this car behavior after installing CRD-T: I changed map from 2.0 (that I found today after opening box was a default map) to 2 +1. Driving first ~ 2 km and car start bucking (if this a right term) on slow speed but after (giving more gas when got on open road) its drive FINE. Now pushing all the way to 4500 rpm and definitely more torgue/power

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Hi P, just kept at 2.2 for now but very tempted to go up to 4.2 soon.The car runs well but I have noticed the odd time when it seems a bit unresponsive. Not sure about fuel consumption yet, but i got around 480 miles off the last tank (maxi dot stated 20 miles remaining) which took nearly 54 l - I assume the tank is the same as my old superb which still has another 50+ miles when the maxidot reads zero. Still waiting to get to the magic 500 miles before I fill up, though I have done quite a few short trips since I've had this car.

Is there much difference between 4,0, 4.1, 4,2? what about 3's? - is there a such a setting?

Cheers

Sorry for late reply. I've went from 4.1 to 4.2. It feels more responsive in all gears and pulls very well. I've had no problems with it and still getting good fuel consumption.

I've never tried the 3 fine setting over fear of the engine management light coming on.

I'd be happy to leave it on 4.2 but remember back when it was on 2.2 that I thought this was a good all round setting. Will try it again at some point when I can properly compare them.

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Sorry for late reply. I've went from 4.1 to 4.2. It feels more responsive in all gears and pulls very well. I've had no problems with it and still getting good fuel consumption.

I've never tried the 3 fine setting over fear of the engine management light coming on.

I'd be happy to leave it on 4.2 but remember back when it was on 2.2 that I thought this was a good all round setting. Will try it again at some point when I can properly compare them.

 

thanks P, I'm currently on 4.0 and it pulls well but sometimes feels a bit hesitant at lower revs, and also when cold - although this may be down to engine not warmed up?

I may change to 4,2 soon to compare, but my fuel consumption does vary as I have done quite a bit of town driving recently, but managed to get 515 out of a tank before filling which averaged out around 43mpg ish

have you had a service with the box left on? I'm due one in about 2k, probably end of march at main dealer and not looking forward to removing and refitting after!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well removed the box today, as the car is being serviced on monday. Was a bit easier removing the boost connector, and refitting the original plug.

 

I am missing the box already! car feels lifeless without it - so slow. 

 

Roll on monday when I can refit and keep on for a year without removing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I noticed a very strange behavior of my Yeti TDI 140 with DSG box when CRD-T box fitted.
When car's engine is cold I have a very noticeable hesitating and jerking, like engine is cutting off fuel, the only way to cure it is pressing more gas pedal, which is not good when engine is cold and you don't want to rev it up.
When engine warm up this behavior goes away. I tried maps 2.0, 2.+1, 2.+2, 4.0, 4.+1, 4.+2 the higher (+1, +2) jumper the worse. I live in very mild climate. Outside temp. never goes below 8C+ in the winter.
It comes to a point that I ponder to take a box off the car, because when my wife use the car in the morning she don't understand why almost brand new car behave this way.

 I contacted Andrew at DTUTek, he recommend me to try different jumper settings but as a I mentioned above, problem still there. He told me in last e-mail that no one else he knows has this problem.

That is why I am asking members on this forum if anyone had such problem and what is a fix.

 

Best Regards.

 

 

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Serge

I've just emailed you regarding this as I've been looking into this for you over the last couple of weeks.

We have seen this before on a couple of 2.0 177, but never before on a 140. Just last weekend I tried the revised software we wrote for the 177 on an octavia 170 and it didn't suit the car at all. Just yesterday we added a kit to a beetle 140ps to which I added the usual software and the car and customer were both over the moon ;) I took the opportunity to try the revised software on this be beetle and to be honest the car went even better.

What I do plan on doing is replacing one of the 4 maps (probably map 3) with this revised map as it has cured the issue on the 177s we've heard about, but as I've explained isn't suitable for all 2.0.

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