At what oil temperature in a VRS, or other Fab2, do you back off?

100C?

105C?

110C?

or more?

never! had it to 125......

At what temperature does the oil stop doing its job I wonder?

I was quite disturbed at my oil getting upto 130 degrees on trackdays.  

 

What made it worse for me was the fact that because the oil is water cooled, the high oil temps cause the coolant temps to go up substantially (this was measured at the radiator outlet iirc with VCDS which measured approx 30-40 degrees more than the dash which was still showing 90degrees coolant).  With ealrier cars on the older spark plugs suffering failurs due to heat issues, casuing misfire issues, this is the reason i then fitted the uprated intercooler/radiator and Motul oil.  iirc the Motul 300V oil retains its viscosity to around 145degrees

 

Net result oil temp reductions of 10-15degrees and reduction in peak water temps of about 30 degrees.

your turbo bearings are oil cooled.... how hot do you think they get?! 400C maybe? ... I doubt an overally temp of 130 c is a problem... the engines were designed around their function with appropriate oil, that coild be driven through death valley... its fine :P

 

Interestingly this brings up an observation i had in the past couple of days driving in this heat. Iirc oil temp under low load should even out to around 87 degrees i believe. During my trips down the motorway in the 30 degree heat i was seeing 99-101 cruising and 70mph, not sure if that is something to be worried about but it seemed to have no adverse effects.

With ambient temps of around 20*oC, that 87oC would usually be up at around 92/3 after 10 miles or so,

or after giving it a bit of throttle once its got to 88*oC.

 

Nothing to worry about. with the temps in #6, IMO

Keep to the maximum oil level, not above, and not low.

that sometimes shows on the Temp gauge a degree or so lower.

 

Mobile 1 or some other good oils might also show a degree or 2 lower. even lower than Castrol Edge.

 

I find that Quantum LongLife lll 5w 30 as used at Skoda Dealers Services is an oil that runs or sows as running hotter in a Twincharger,

I have driven a car with new Dealers Oil Change oil straight from being serviced & showing 95*oC once hot,

dropped that oil and replaced with better, and then the car is showing 92*oC max, same conditions and ambient temps.

personally i would not run with it in my car.

 

george

Uphill run at 80kph in mid-summer (40 degrees C outside) I saw 102 degrees. Normal temperature is low 90's, but it will drop below 90 if I'm driving sedately (60kph urban) this winter.

Any idea What oil do they come filled with in Australia, 0W 30, 0w 40 or the likes?

What oil have you put in?

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-652-0w-30.aspx

 

george

I don't like to take any car over 120c.

If I do it's oil change ASAP.

Any idea What oil do they come filled with in Australia, 0W 30, 0w 40 or the likes?

What oil have you put in?

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-652-0w-30.aspx

 

george

 

5w/30 on both accounts. I believe the official choice is Castrol. I have used both Liqui Moly and Penrite for top-ups (both 504/507 specs.)

Hi

 

I have a new, June 13, Fabia Elegance Estate 1.6 CR 105 BHP and get an oil temperature of 100 to 106 degrees C on the motorway at about 70 mph.  I was worried because this is past boiling point of 100 degress but if the vRS is reading the same it must be OK???  

Hi

 

I have a new, June 13, Fabia Elegance Estate 1.6 CR 105 BHP and get an oil temperature of 100 to 106 degrees C on the motorway at about 70 mph.  I was worried because this is past boiling point of 100 degress but if the vRS is reading the same it must be OK???  

 

My the sound of it 105-106C is OK.

 

New engine might well get a bit hotter and with the air temp around 30C it is hardly surprising it rises above its normal 90C to a bit over 100.

 

What I was trying to find out is what temperature is regarded as knackering the oil. 

 

120 to 125C seems to be a consensus from those who push these boundaries and what I will work too.

 

My oil is been in the Fabia VRS for about 15K miles as it is now changed to variable.

 

Mind you it has probably had at least 5 litres added in that period as top up so most the molecules are new ones not one from the original oil change!

 

You cannot tow with a VRS I gather because of the valances on the it but you can with other Fabias andI would have thought that those towing in this weather would be seeing much high temperatures than I am seeing blowing off the occasional two litre diesel or thelike (off lights and up hills is best).       

I tend to have the oil temp as the most common display and whilst, in the 30C weather spell, I just canvassed opinion as to when to back off as the 105-ish seems to be the prudent temp.

 

You can still blast it up Holden hill (West of Exeter) start at the bottom, take it up to 110-120 (kph honestly Officer) and it will add 5 degrees, say 98 to 103 or so but that seems OK, cools 5 degrees the other side and ready to go again on the next long hill.  What it is like in 35/40c heat but then the cars for those climate probably have extra rows on their oil/water coolers to compensate courtesy of VAG.     

'Diesel Estate',

The boiling point of H20 has little to do with the Boiling point of Oil.

 

Even Water now has little to do with it if its modern coolants, check the difference between HOAT & OAT.

Coolant & Coolant under pressure raises the boiling point,

just as the anti freeze, lowers the freezing point.

 

Cooking Oil Boils at over 250 Degrees C and Engine oil needs to be above 300 degrees C.

*Check the 'Flash Point' of Oils.*

 

http://www.vincelewis.net/motoroil.html

 

The Air into, over or through a radiator is cooling the Coolant which is in turn cooling the Oil & the Oil its self is a coolant,

the hotter ambient air cools less well, and then the oil temp is higher, which is why fans are kicking in to get or keep the coolant down in temperature and also oil coolers are there to cool the oil.

 

The cars are designed to run as they are running,

but the right fluids & at the correct levels and maybe making allowance for higher Ambient Temperatures is better

for engines. ie do not thrash them when its very hot, or if you do be aware that they can fail.

Better Oil & Coolants can mean lower running temperatures in heat or still good performance from them at higher temperatures.

 

Normal engines running at the higher levels of running temperatures are working hard to cool down, so that may mean higher fuel consumption as Fans, pumps, coolers need to kick in more often or constantly to assist in the cooling.

 

george

 

PS.

Only reason you can not Tow With a vRS is because they VAG did not put Towing Limits forward for Type Approval.

A Polo GTI or Audi A1 with the same Engine, Gearbox, Brakes and slightly heavier but has EU Type Approved towing limits,

braked and unbraked.

(They have put 25kg of weight on the rear crash bar as well which is another reason why not type approved,

but that would not have caused any problems on an vRS estate, easy to fit a towbar whatever the rear valance with some Modding,

You could just fit one from another Fabia,

but no 'Towing Weights', means no legal way of fitting a Towing bar/ball and actually towing.)

If you did not have a oil temp gauge you would not care about how hot the oil was getting

Lots used to look at oil pressure gauges and Coolant temp gauges rising into the red.

Many of us still see those cars sitting overheated at the road side.

 

BBC Breakfast has just had an Expert on, opening the bonnet of a Skoda and telling you to dip the oil with a cold engine,

and to check the coolant bottle and have the coolant at the Maximum mark.

 

Then he said if you need to top up, read the 'book' and see what it needs in the correct coolant'.

then he said,

'In an emergency you could just put in Water'.

 

I can see the Emails and TXTs going into the BBC now.

All those cars that sit at Minimum coolant level when cold and set their own level back to 'MIN' if you ever top up to Maximum.

And then those cars that are away to get some H20 put into a system that should have no water in it.

 

george

If you change the oil after it has reached 120c would you change it again when you got back if after 50 miles it got to the same temp

What happens if you live in Arizona, Phoenix where it is 130'C regularly, oil temp is normally 120'C+, I am sure oils can quite happily cope with extremes as they are designed not to break down. Especially Synthetic lubricants.

 

 Most oils only start to break down at around 200'C with the flash point being at about 230'C.

 

 100-130'C is a regular occurrence for most modern cars, especially when loaded up or towing. 

^^^ agreed... the oil temp display isn't there to be all OCD about.... jeez...... I burn mine HOT all the time, and have never had a problem. remember neither of my cars have used excessive oil, OR had any real problems. (total of 54,000 miles and track days/autobahns too...)

After reading this thread I decided to see how hot my 105 diesel Monte got on a run up the motorway.  Cruising at a constant 70 the temperature reach 111°C.

 

I'm I worried, not really. 

 

However I did nearly get 60mpg.

After reading this thread I decided to see how hot my 105 diesel Monte got on a run up the motorway.  Cruising at a constant 70 the temperature reach 111°C.

 

I'm I worried, not really. 

 

However I did nearly get 60mpg.

 

Good to know.  Makes me feel a bit happier about 105C.

 

Diesel engines run hotter in some areas of the upper engine as this is where they get their efficeincy from in part.

You should take it above 100C regularly as this is the way to remove any moisture/petrol dilution from the oil (it boils off). My lowly 15 year old Alhambra 90bhp (diesel) runs at anywhere between 113-121 deg on motorways at 75mph, many a time in hot summers on the autobahn at 95mph, fully laden with roof box it has cruised at 134 deg. Handbook states that if oil temperatures reach 145 deg C you should reduce speed such that the temperatures drop below that level.

 

Modern full synthetic oils are good to way beyond 150 deg C without any loss of lubrication quality or oxidation. Not boiling off the water/petrol content is far more damaging to the engine.

I'd be more concerned if it didn't drop back down to "normal" after a blast..

 

When I had my new engine, it was high 90's (compared low a pretty constant 92/93 before that); didn't take much to get it over 100 but it was a new engine.  Now sits mid 90's no problem and the highest i've had it to was 115 on the autobahn briefly.

 

I'd call 130 degrees within normal parameters given its a fully synthetic?

If the oil temp was important enough that the average joe owner had to monitor it then surely Skoda would add this feature as standard to all of their cars.i didn't get a maxi dot with my Greenline so ive got no way of telling what temp the oil is & it gives me one less thing to worry about

If the oil temp was important enough that the average joe owner had to monitor it then surely Skoda would add this feature as standard to all of their cars.i didn't get a maxi dot with my Greenline so ive got no way of telling what temp the oil is & it gives me one less thing to worry about

Agreed,it's a non- issue for road use.As with all other water cooled engines,if the water temperature is OK then so will the oil temp...assuming the oil level is not low and the oil is the correct spec,of course.