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Installing LED lights - Puddle, front and rear foot well and rear roof.


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Have you replaced your glovebox light too? That and the rear number plate lights are next on my hit list! :-)

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Have you replaced your glovebox light too? That and the rear number plate lights are next on my hit list! :-)

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Never even thought about that one haha, what size is it? (saves me going out and looking haha) 

What size are the number plate ones aswell? are they monitored by CANBUS? 

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I've seen people use 36mm Festoon lights on the Number Plate, with a Resistor and Heatsink as I think they are monitored by the CANBUS being as they are external bulbs!!

 

First post in here... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/211733-the-led-lights-thread/

Edited by Simoneale1973
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Never even thought about that one haha, what size is it? (saves me going out and looking haha)

What size are the number plate ones aswell? are they monitored by CANBUS?

Can't remember what size I used for the number plate bulbs but increasingly it is 36mm and yes they are CANBUS monitored :'(

I have replaced mine with no problems but I can't remember where they are from. Will look at my purchase histories and see......on the A9 at the moment :-(

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Just been able to check my emails and I bought the bulbs from www.carmodshop.co.uk don't have links to the products but these are the descriptions for ones i bought from the receipt

1 x 36MM-CAN - PAIR 36MM CANBUS ERROR FREE FESTOON XENON WHITE 3 SMD LED BULBS

1 x 44MM-W - WHITE 8 LED INTERIOR FESTOON 44mm C5W 264 BULB

No error codes or warnings, no resistors, no heat shrink just straight replacement.

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Edited by jonro2009
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on the A9 at the moment :-(

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Don't envy that drive! hated it even more in snow...behind a lorry...which was following a lorry. lol

 

 

Just been able to check my emails and I bought the bulbs from www.carmodshop.co.uk don't have links to the products but these are the descriptions for ones i bought from the receipt 1 x 36MM-CAN - PAIR 36MM CANBUS ERROR FREE FESTOON XENON WHITE 3 SMD LED BULBS 1 x 44MM-W - WHITE 8 LED INTERIOR FESTOON 44mm C5W 264 BULB No error codes or warnings, no resistors, no heat shrink just straight replacement. Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 4

 

Ok, i may try the festoon bulb i have in the inside light in the number plate light see if i get any errors. 

 

Any ideas on where to wire the puddle and warning lights? 

 

I would definitely recommend rear roof lights! makes a huge difference! and for the extra few quid and little bit of wiring its worth it.

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this is the only way to cross over to the door without the wires being insight and extra cable hanging to allow the door to open and close. Any ideas/different plan to wire the puddle lights?

Im stumped for now....

How about going from the door side through the trunking and see where it comes out?

Worth a shot. Good luck.

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How about going from the door side through the trunking and see where it comes out?

Worth a shot. Good luck.

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Now thats an idea. Although it will mean removing the whole door card...i dont know if im brave enough...i was only wanting to pull the bottom away slightly to get the cable through haha.

Anyone taken the door panel off? Whats it like? Lol

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So, door card is out and still no obvious 'in' for the wires so its on with the thinking cap..

Taking the card of is easy enough......

2 X T15 screws at the bottom to be taken out then 2X T25 screws behind the 'C' shaped trim around the door release which just pry"s out. Then working from the bottom around the edges the card unclips. Then unclip the wire harnesses and the door release wire.

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I can get the wire from the car into the door using the existing entry point and casing but can't get the wire out from inside the door skin.... If that makes sense.

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Drill out the rivets holding the speaker on and use the gap left when it's removed to manoeuvre the cable out of one of the existing grommets.

The one above the speaker, where the main door loom comes through looks prime for it.

Edited by R4zb3rry
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im gunna watch this space, see what you come up with! 

 

What about removing all the torx screw on the door, there 4 round the window motor, and a couple spread over the door, this would release that whole panel away, then feed the wire through one of those holes close to the door edge above the wire harness entrance. 

 

Would that work? 

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From the inside of the car I removed the trim to the right of the accelerator and found a small hole in the metal work. On the outside there is a small grommet under the main wiring loom, I popped that out and fed a coat hanger between the two holes taped my wire to it and pulled it back through then removed the concertina plastic casing at each end and fed my wire through into the door. Put the grommet back and one side of the other casing, the car side not the door side.

I couldn't get the torx loosened they are solid!

I have done it though :-)

There is a small hole at the bottom left of the door once the card is removed, I put my trusty wire coat hanger into the small hole mentioned and fed it up past the speaker towards the hole that the wires enter the door taped it to my wire and pulled it back through feeling very smug I put the door card back on and realised that the hole I had used was needed for a clip on the door so had to remove the card again and rethink......I decided to have a look at the wiring that comes out of the grommet above the speaker. I removed the grommet put a hook on the end of my coat hanger and fished inside for my wire which was still coming out of the small hole so easy to grab a loop of it, caught it and pulled it up out of the hole then fed it through the grommet and replaced said grommet left the wire trailing down and refitted the card and then felt much more smug cos IT WORKED. Replacing the concertina casing to the door is very tricky. All I need to do now is position my light strips and connect as I have run the wire into the foot well, door and rear and you can't see it anywhere only done the drivers side as yet as my back started playing up so will do some more tomorrow and finish that side then I reckon I will have to wait till next weekend to do the other side. I haven't bothered with roof lights I wanted to just stay low down with all my wires. I didn't want the back flood lit just a glow, as there is rarely anyone in the back.

I've tried to explain as best I can but that's all I can come up with......sorry.

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Screws is ok to replace rivets. I did it on my Octavia. :)

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Not played around with rivets before so I didn't want to risk it......plus if I'm going to drill the speakers out I may as well replace them :-) plus it's Sunday and the nearest place for screws is 30mins away but it is next door to an audio shop!

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Back light is great for me as a have a 2 yr old who is constantly dropping things back there.

Great break down of the removal. I have 5 nights at work next week!....

I've got four 4-MN shifts so not too bad for me :-)

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Nice thread, bit indepth for me though, we are planning to put the lights at the base of the door, it seems odd to put them on the wing mirror which is the opposite side of the door so doesnt really light the ground once the door is open if that makes sense? 

 

 

What use are footwell lights?

 

Is it to enable you to see the pedals

 

 

:)

 

They smarten the car up i think,  and have you ever tried to find something in the footwell using the current roof lights? its a nightmare. it makes things practical! 

 

Some might not like them....i do.

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