Well just drove the mother ship back from Leamington Spa, I have to say I did not notice any untoward noises from the back, except of course for the Canton boom.

Wish my Canton had a boom. The other day I actually got out of the car, left the music playing, opened the boot and stuck my head next to it just to see if it was doing anything.

Wish my Canton had a boom. The other day I actually got out of the car, left the music playing, opened the boot and stuck my head next to it just to see if it was doing anything.

It's more of a subtle enhancement, but I found myself driving with all kinds of music playing loud today, whereas with the old car I used to find myself turning it down.

I was also wondering about the sub. I tried with radio ,DAB, and the sub almost gave norhing. Then I tried mp3 at 320 kbit, and then it was working much better. So you need good quality sound source.

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Edited 16 November, 201411 yr by Stianol

Seems to me there is a lot of repetition in this thread due to the fact that most have not read all 500+ contributions ( I am not criticising, it is a lot to read)

I'll attempt a summary but there are at least two different symptoms and several different causes which can possibly affect all models:

 

1)The original title "low frequency boom" came from the back of the vehicle - the floor of the boot is made of a relatively thin but very high tensile steel from which is easy to stimulate a low frequency boom (not so easy to dampen, even with application of dynamat).

In my case the problem was not bad and was pretty well fixed by chocking the spare tyre in the rear wheel well and experimenting with the tightness of the plastic locking nut, so maybe worse for those without the spare wheel (?).

Others had much worse and persistent rumbling and this seems to be related to a bad batch or rear suspension shocks (particularly on early models), I think this is mainly on the torsion bar rear suspension cars. A number of people are now reporting that Skoda dealers are aware of the problem as will replace rear shocks for obviously bad cases. Fault rear dampers may also account for some others reporting poor rear suspension characteristics? I find mine to be pretty good.

There was at least one case where the rumbling was attributed to vibrations/movement of the rear seat back.

 

2) A second different problem became associated with this thread.

People were reporting an uncomfortable compression effect on their ears on bumpy roads and this was identified with movement of the boot lid on sedan and wagon.

'Snala' in New Zealand was particularly affected and persisted with his dealers and they found it was due to faulty boot-lid locators (on the side). He has approved experimental replacement units, but I am not sure if they are on general release world-wide yet.

Some others have got relief by having rear boot-lid seals replaced, but the good mechanics may well have readjusted the boot-lid locators as well.

 

I do not experience the compression problem as my estate rear lid closes very tightly and there is no movement at all, but once I did drive off with it not fully secured. The internal display did warn me but I was only going a short distance so I ignored it. When I hit a bump I thought my head had exploded. Needless to say I stopped and shut it properly immediately and had a bit more empathy for those suffering the problem continuously.

 

Hope this helps.

I do not experience the compression problem as my estate rear lid closes very tightly and there is no movement at all, but once I did drive off with it not fully secured. The internal display did warn me but I was only going a short distance so I ignored it. When I hit a bump I thought my head had exploded. Needless to say I stopped and shut it properly immediately and had a bit more empathy for those suffering the problem continuously.

My boot closes ridiculously tightly (often takes me a couple of goes as I'm still treating it like a new car) and I get a compression 'issue' when I'm driving on bad roads.

 

If I drive without the hatch closed properly then the compression goes away 99% of the time. It does, however, keep beeping at me as the hatch sensor goes off every time you hit a bump telling you it's not closed properly.

 

I'm not sure which problem my car suffers from, or why/where it comes from. But I'm learning to just live with it.

My boot closes ridiculously tightly (often takes me a couple of goes as I'm still treating it like a new car) and I get a compression 'issue' when I'm driving on bad roads.

 

If I drive without the hatch closed properly then the compression goes away 99% of the time. It does, however, keep beeping at me as the hatch sensor goes off every time you hit a bump telling you it's not closed properly.

 

I'm not sure which problem my car suffers from, or why/where it comes from. But I'm learning to just live with it.

From my experience the difference is one is an annoying sound and the other is actual discomfort, you should not have to live with the either but certainly not the latter.

Logically the 'ridiculously tight' fit is too tight, not sure how that works but probably compromises the seal operation from 'bending' the door around the side stops and locking at the base.

The side stops are adjustable but SNALA's fix involving a redesigned stop is probably your best option, when it comes available

It is certainly worth regularly checking with your dealer.

Edited 18 November, 201411 yr by Gerrycan

Update on recall status....

My car is April 13 build so one of the early builds as I ordered on UK launch weekend. Dealer has confirmed its on the list for the replacement hatch buffers/stops but there is no recall or service bulletin for the shock absorbers. Booked in next Wed for the buffers and they will investigate the shockers. Also, I have logged a case with SUK in readiness to support escalation of the case for replacement shockers, which SUK say is dependent on the recommendations of the retailer's report.

Hello

 

I am picking up my vRS tomorrow morning and I am a little worried about suffering from this too. Would you suggest taking it back straight away if does present itself on the drive home. Its a box fresh Octy3 but reading through this topic its not obvious that its been sorted.

 

Don't get me wrong I am not sat here worrying about it but I would appreciate some advise.

Eyup Mr Spud, probably not worth panicking and giving it a few miles to bed in before you rush back. As far as I am concerned, the warranty will cover any "faulty parts" issues, and one of the reasons I extended it up to 80,000. Over on the L&K thread, AndyVee has reported a significant improvement compared to his prototype Elegance so hopefully you'll be ok. I'm after the changes to shock absorber spec which seems to have been made to cars built after Aug 13 so hopefully you'll be ok by now and yours will also have IRS in lieu of my Torsion Beam set up.

Spikespud: ask your dealer for test drive at least 15 minutes, different roads. Focus on how it behaves on bumps, uneven road surface, rough Tarmac and so on! Let it's trunk empty for testing!

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Edited 26 November, 201411 yr by Srejber

Hello

 

I am picking up my vRS tomorrow morning and I am a little worried about suffering from this too. Would you suggest taking it back straight away if does present itself on the drive home. Its a box fresh Octy3 but reading through this topic its not obvious that its been sorted.

 

Don't get me wrong I am not sat here worrying about it but I would appreciate some advise.

Had my VRS for 10 days now, no problem with noise so far.

Well not a hint of any boom boom. Plenty of vroooooom vroooom though!

I have a two week old 1.4 hatch.

When it was brand new I noticed something like what is described here but it has settled down now or disappeared. Was quite uncomfortable for the first week or so.

Mholsson: may i kindly ask you for how long it took or how many miles? Sounds promising that it might disapear it self

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I had the same problem when the car was new. It started to disappear after 2000 kms. I also played with hatch rubber stoppers. They helped a lot to stop the booming.

Edited 28 November, 201411 yr by Sak

Tbh I would have been happy if it had three wheels !! I really really live this car. Perfect mix of performs and space. I'm sure an Audi A6 would have been better but I would never spend that amount on a car.

Just to help provide balance to this thread (or the force): I've had my 2.0 TDI Elegance Hatch for a couple of weeks (64 plate), and no boom for me, and no strange pressure. In fact, I cannot fault it at all thus far.

Just to help provide balance to this thread (or the force): I've had my 2.0 TDI Elegance Hatch for a couple of weeks (64 plate), and no boom for me, and no strange pressure. In fact, I cannot fault it at all thus far.

Just wondered if anyone had the sprung loaded bumpstops fitted on their new cars yet

Can anyone provide pictures, hatch and estate?

I think I did about 3-400 miles before noticing that it had decreased.

Mholsson: may i kindly ask you for how long it took or how many miles? Sounds promising that it might disapear it self

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Sure - I'll check when I get a chance to - might be able to later tonight.

Just wondered if anyone had the sprung loaded bumpstops fitted on their new cars yet

Can anyone provide pictures, hatch and estate?

No spring mechanism - just plain rubber stops.

Just wondered if anyone had the sprung loaded bumpstops fitted on their new cars yet

Can anyone provide pictures, hatch and estate?

My MY13 is getting these fitted under warranty on Wed. I don't really think mine is affected by the booming but will be interested to see if cabin noise is reduced.

My MY13 is getting these fitted under warranty on Wed. I don't really think mine is affected by the booming but will be interested to see if cabin noise is reduced.

Great, it is good to know this solution has arrived in the UK. Any idea of the part number?

Great, it is good to know this solution has arrived in the UK. Any idea of the part number?

I'll ask at the dealer tomorrow

Would be interesting to hear the part no. for the bumps too (is it all of them, just the middle, or just the lower pair ?)

Apparently mine is not on the chassis numbers for rear shock replacement, so hoping these will help !

As its surface dependant and usually at low speed, its a foible that hasn't irked me terribly, or that often, but it would be nice to not have it !

 

What have people who have improved with adjustments found, needs to be tighter or looser on the bump rubbers ?