Hi I have a vrs TDI hatch. Noticed the booming and read around the forums. I found by raising the black rubber buffers on each side of the car boot opening around 3mm reduced the booming. It's rare now. Hope this helps you need a torx Allen key to adjust.

I've been scathing about the ride on both of my 2.0 TDi estate Elegance's (on 18's mainly, but also to a lesser extent the current one on 17's). I just spent a day with an vRS on 18's and I will never complain about the Elegance again. The vRS ride was hideous, no way could I live with that car, admittedly the roads where I live are total poop, but it was just painful to drive. It also was noisy as hell in terms of road noise from the back which none of the torsion beam Elegance's have been, I thought the multi-link was meant to be quieter?

I've been scathing about the ride on both of my 2.0 TDi estate Elegance's (on 18's mainly, but also to a lesser extent the current one on 17's). I just spent a day with an vRS on 18's and I will never complain about the Elegance again. The vRS ride was hideous, no way could I live with that car, admittedly the roads where I live are total poop, but it was just painful to drive. It also was noisy as hell in terms of road noise from the back which none of the torsion beam Elegance's have been, I thought the multi-link was meant to be quieter?

My multilink Elegance (with 16"s) is silky smooth over pretty much all terrain, and surprisingly quiet too. (Though the sound levels should improve further once we get the underside sprayed with an anti corrosive coating.

There's no consistency is there? My very early TSi vRS estate has a fair bit of road noise but the ride is very good for a car at the performance end of the range. Not as good as my Mk1 Octy 4x4 estate was but better than many other cars I've driven. It's not at all tiresome on longer trips in this respect (but the need to keep making steering inputs is a pain as said elsewhere).Sounds as if there is a lot of variablity in the ride quality among all our cars and even given that we all have different opinions about what might be hard or soft, jittery or smooth, the differences can't seem to be pinned down to any particular feature(s) such as torsion beam, shocks, wheel size, tyres. Feel really sorry for those who have this sort of trouble because my particular car seems excellent.

I've got a 2014 build vRS combi that has always displayed slightly louder tyre roar from the rear since new.

 

It's now covered 10k but in the last 1k I can really notice the "boom" or "buffeting" in the cockpit.  It's booked into my local dealers next week to hopefully demonstrate the issue to an engineer.

 

Any hints or tips to go there with?  I see a lot of "solutions" for the hatch but none for the combi - is that right?

 

MC

I've got a 2014 build vRS combi that has always displayed slightly louder tyre roar from the rear since new.

 

It's now covered 10k but in the last 1k I can really notice the "boom" or "buffeting" in the cockpit.  It's booked into my local dealers next week to hopefully demonstrate the issue to an engineer.

 

Any hints or tips to go there with?  I see a lot of "solutions" for the hatch but none for the combi - is that right?

 

MC

Your boot lid is probably shaking/vibrating like mine did.

Grab it at the number plate light area (when closed) and try shaking (push and pull) it. Also try push it inward where the buffers are. If it's moving then adjustment needed.

Mine needed buffer adjusting (0,5 cm outward) and I also adjusted the lock mechanism (0,5 cm inward). Now the boot lid has some tension when closed.

There is an audible clack noise when I open it. There was nothing like this before.

Booming significantly reduced (more than 50%) and the frequency is less annoying (now it's higher, like a drum).

Mine made the booming noise only on bad surfaces, potholes, etc.

I made the adjustments at home as I didn't want to spend half a day at the dealer...

Video after mine adjustments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvRnZ_Qwz3s

Edited 2 April, 201511 yr by aki78

Your boot lid is probably shaking/vibrating like mine did.

Grab it at the number plate light area (when closed) and try shaking (push and pull) it. Also try push it inward where the buffers are. If it's moving then adjustment needed.

Mine needed buffer adjusting (0,5 cm outward) and I also adjusted the lock mechanism (0,5 cm inward). Now the boot lid has some tension when closed.

There is an audible clack noise when I open it. There was nothing like this before.

Booming significantly reduced (more than 50%) and the frequency is less annoying (now it's higher, like a drum).

Mine made the booming noise only on bad surfaces, potholes, etc.

I made the adjustments at home as I didn't want to spend half a day at the dealer...

Video after mine adjustments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvRnZ_Qwz3s

 

 

How did you adjust the buffers (on each side of the boot opening)?

Edited 3 April, 201511 yr by mightychipster

My VRS Estate 64 plate has had a thrumming resonance from the rear since new. It has been in 2 different dealers twice now and neither could find any problem and they both concluded it is the tyre compound despite the fact they have tried different tyres ! I believe it is suspension related as it sounds like the movement of the shocks is being transmitted/resonated through the boot floor. The resonance varies according to the road surface i.e. it is louder on rough tarmac. 

 

I have tried adjusting the buffers on the tailgate and this has made no difference. I have now booked the car in to be soundproofed with Dynamat pads, which is going to cost £400 !! I would like to know if anyone else has tried this and noticed any improvement before I part with £400. 

 

If this doesn't work, I am going to try some Koni FSD shocks, which must be an improvement over the standard items and will hopefully improve the ride as well. Has anyone tried changing the shocks and or springs ? 

My Bilstein B4s are now in the country, having waited 3 weeks to get them sent over from factory in Germany, hoping for delivery on Tues, so hopefully fitted by the end of next week along with an Eibach Pro Kit, hopefully I can report good news soon!

My Bilstein B4s are now in the country, having waited 3 weeks to get them sent over from factory in Germany, hoping for delivery on Tues, so hopefully fitted by the end of next week along with an Eibach Pro Kit, hopefully I can report good news soon!

Arent B4's identical to the standard OE factory supplied units already on the car?!

Arent B4's identical to the standard OE factory supplied units already on the car?!

I was told a 10-20% improvement in quality so decided to give them a try as didn't want B6s as worried they would be too sporty.

I was told a 10-20% improvement in quality so decided to give them a try as didn't want B6s as worried they would be too sporty.

hmm, hope that your source was a good one. Bilstein UK technical advised me that B4 gas shocks were matched to OE spec with the same damping force/ internal valving etc. B6's being around 20% firmer on the damping and B8's the same but with 20mm off the shaft length and designed and tested with Eibach lowering springs. Depending ow many miles are on your factory ones you'll probably still feel a improvement in tightness perhaps.

Yep, I'm on 45k now and also original MY13 build so also hoping for an improvement as rumours are damping settings have evolved but SUK will not admit anything!

Yep, I'm on 45k now and also original MY13 build so also hoping for an improvement as rumours are damping settings have evolved but SUK will not admit anything!

 

You could try fitting VW Golf shocks? I've fitted them to my Elegance and they don't do anything for the noise, but they make a world of difference to the ride. Cheaper than the Octavia shocks too.

I opted for B4s as they were cheaper than OEMs, I paid £165 incl vat for a full set of four, they are suitable for up to 40mm lowering and according to Superb I owners combining with Eibachs makes for a big improvement over OEM but keeps the comfort on the motorway.

Edited 5 April, 201511 yr by Matt Pez

I opted for B4s as they were cheaper than OEMs, I paid £165 incl vat for a full set of four, they are suitable for up to 40mm lowering and according to Superb I owners combining with Eibachs makes for a big improvement over OEM but keeps the comfort on the motorway.

Parts arrived today, booked in for fitting on Mon 20th, was hoping for a slot this week but all the local Indy's are busy this week and I'm on the road every day next week so got to wait another two weeks for the moment of truth!

I have a Octavia Combi, I must say mine doesn't suffer from same boom in cabin......I wonder if its a set-up issue? 

I have a Octavia Combi, I must say mine doesn't suffer from same boom in cabin......I wonder if its a set-up issue?

The 'boom' is usually accompanied with air pressure discomfort and is associated with the rear hatch movement from not being fitted properly.

Excessive 'rumbling' from the rear is usually on poor roads. This is often concurrent with a reported harsh ride and possibly associated with defective shock absorbers.

Like you I do not have either problem.

Edited 21 April, 201511 yr by Gerrycan

Unfortunately my newly delivered (31/05/2015) VRS Tdi Hatch has succumbed to this problem. When driving it home from the dealership the experience was great - aside from the constant pressure changes and resulting headaches. 

 

I've taken photos of the side buffers - They're black rubber/plastic. Are these the latest ones or are the remedied cars being fitted with steel/spring types? 

 

 

 

 

Is there any solution to this as I find the car very uncomfortable. It's kind of like someone opened a back window - the 'wind' like noise you get from an open rear window and the 'pressure' feeling around the ears is hard to cope.

 

I'm enjoying the ride and feel of the car otherwise so hoping you can help. I'm not sure how I can describe this to a dealer.

At what speeds does this booming manifest itself?

I kind of feel it from the get go when under acceleration. Nothing mad - just steady progress. When you hit 80km/h plus it feels like motion sickness the way it plays with my ears.

 

Again - it's exactly as if someone left one back window down. It's more subtle - but the effect is the exact same.

I havent experienced it in my car yet.

Ill see if I notice it next week when doing a 400km trip.

Edited 2 May, 201511 yr by Gromle

Unfortunately my newly delivered (31/05/2015) VRS Tdi Hatch has succumbed to this problem. When driving it home from the dealership the experience was great - aside from the constant pressure changes and resulting headaches. 

 

I've taken photos of the side buffers - They're black rubber/plastic. Are these the latest ones or are the remedied cars being fitted with steel/spring types? 

 

 

 

 

Is there any solution to this as I find the car very uncomfortable. It's kind of like someone opened a back window - the 'wind' like noise you get from an open rear window and the 'pressure' feeling around the ears is hard to cope.

 

I'm enjoying the ride and feel of the car otherwise so hoping you can help. I'm not sure how I can describe this to a dealer.

Hello, use an allen key and adjust the side buffers, move them up to the highest setting and that will stop the tailgate moving which causes the pressure problem, I had this on my mk2 VRS hatch, the problem has now been sorted.

Those buffers in the pics above are also identical to the ones fitted to my MY13 car. Mine were modified under a recall for the backplates to be replaced due to potential corrosion issue, but no obvious difference in appearance. No booming on mine before or after the recall.

I really don't notice this anymore. My car has 2000 miles up. Are people still getting this with higher miles?