I am currently looking for a VRS and wondered if people could give me a few pointers as to what to look out for so I don't end up buying a money pit :(

I will be using it for work probably doing 20-25k per year so obviously I need to make sure I get a reliable one 

 

Thanks in advance 

use the search function. there are countless threads that will answer your question.

Buy a car in outstanding overall condition with EVERY dealer stamp in the service book, ignore the mileage.

 

Put money aside each month for the new turbo.

Can I be 100% honest?

Buying a car that is a minimum of 7 years old to do relatively high mileages for your job is probably not the best idea in the world.

No matter how good a car you get it's going to need work. I have a 2006 vRS with over 200,000 miles on the clock and it's fine. It's fine because I literally hurl money at keeping it perfect. Anything of this vintage is starting to be a money pit.

If you want a reliable runner, lease yourself a TDi 140 Audi A1, SEAT Ibiza or VW Polo. You'll thank me in the long term!

I do similar milage to you and bought mine as a motorway mile muncher. I got mine on 93k in september 2011 and its now on 133k. I have spent money servicing it and its had the cambelt and waterpump done but this is general maintenance in my eyes. I had it go into limp mode when the MAF sensor played up so put a new one on and then had a problem with the wiring to it. The clutch is now slipping but I am running a high torque map and it is on the original clutch so I don't think 130k is bad to be replacing it at. I put coilovers on mine so put new top strut mounts and drop links on and its had tyres on when needed and discs and pads all round.

No matter what car you get or milage you do it will need servicing and stuff like the cambelt or clutch doing, I know doing alot of miles in a year means you will have to do it sooner or more often but if you keep it serviced theres no reason it wont give you trouble free motoring. Once Ive changed my clutch and flywheel and serviced it in the next few weeks I cant see it needing anything for another good 30k (touch wood!!) apart from servicing.

My advise is try to get a lowish milage one under 100k or around there if you can with good service history. Cambelt is 4 years or 60k so if it hasn't been done either ask them to do it or knock money off for it. Try accelerating hard in it and see if the DMF judders, look for smoke out of the back whilst doing this. Black smoke is normal for diesels but if its a different colour could be turbo on its way out. Turbo is abit of a lottery so you might be lucky or you may not, I always warm mine up and cool it down and so far mine is still going strong (touch wood again). Console bushes go on these so check for knocking or failing that get someone to see if the wheel jolts forward and backwards when setting off quick and then stamping on the brakes. Other than that just basic checks really, check all electrics work, tyres look good etc

A Mondeo tdci business edition estate can be had for circa £320/month iirc, and would be better suited if you're using it for work; that's for a full maintenance package with the car.

I can't for the life of me see why you would want a Fabia vRS when a brand new, bigger car can be had for such a small outlay.

Having said that, I'd buy a car with ironclad history, with service stamps supported by the relevant receipts and invoices,

I'd also check that the cambelt and water pump had been changed at the correct interval, and ask to see paperwork to corroborate.

I don't mind whether a car has low or high miles, as lomg as the service stamps, invoices and mits all tally.

Thanks for all the input 

I have had company cars and opted out of the scheme 10 years ago to take cash alternative , as the cars gradually went from gti , sri etc down to the cheapest cars they can lease without even lumbar support !! That said they haven't increased the cash allowance for 20 years now either !!

I just fancied something a bit more fun for a year or two , I understand there will be higher costs involved with an older higher mileage car and have factored that in with running costs.