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Richard's Ford Fiesta ST and Focus RS


BossFox

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Great picture - I quite like the purple that I have seen some Ford ST's in.

Don't forget Wardy - the yeti has been lowered by 30/40mm? Maybe why the roof line looks better :)

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Skoda Race Blue and Ford Sprint Blue.

Comparison pic.

 

8jdj2.jpg

Thanks for the posting, shows the difference between Ford & Skoda Racing Blue very well.

 

I've no preference, but Valerie might have her own thoughts..........

 

DC 

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Any more Mountune goodies planned? Have they released springs etc?

 

I'm trying not to go silly Josh because I plan to get shot of it after 6 months or so.

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Fair point, I could learn from that rather than spending 3x the value of the car and getting shot within a year as I am likely to :D

 

Yes, but it's one car.

I could learn from that...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got round to taking the Fiesta off the company policy and putting it on my own insurance as I'd taken the big fat Nissan off.

About £250 per year.

For a 200+bhp Fiesta.

 

Bit of a surprise.

I guess not enough of them have been crashed yet to push the premiums up.

 

Will have 1000 miles on it by the time I get home tonight.

Still like it. :D

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Fitted a front Drive Recorder.

 

Clean the screen and stick your recoder/dash cam where you want it.

I put it here for two reasons.

1. I can't see it from the driver's seat.

2. it's looking out within the wiper sweep, which is handy when it's raining or the screen is dirty.

93u4.jpg

 

Plug the wire in and run it up to the cable trim that runs from the rear view mirror to the headlining.

b3p69.jpg

 

Run the wire along under the edge of the headlining and round the top of the A post trim.

3z3jb.jpg

 

Then run the wire down the gap behind the door seal, where Ford left a channel more than wide enough between it and the plastic interior trim.

3rwc.jpg

u1s05.jpg

 

Right down to the panel next to the glovebox.

ce2i.jpg

 

Now pop the glovebox out by pressing it's sides in and fold it down.

Then take the cable down to the bottom of the panel next to the opening where the glovebox was, loop it under and pull it through from inside the opening where the fusebox is.

If your cable has a 12v plus this is the time to cut if off, so it's easier to pass through without removing trim panels.

4qux.jpg

 

Strip the cables so you have the positive and earth ready to connect up.

y51o.jpg

 

Crimp a small ring onto the earth wire (it is going on a 10mm bolt) and a piggyback fuse holder (of the correct later type) onto the positive wire.

jcp1h.jpg

 

Bolt the earth wire with it's ring to this 10mm bolt/nut above the dashboard.

It's connected to the main brace and therefore bulkhead.

gylb.jpg

 

Find an ignition live (such as this one) and remove the fuse.

Plug the piggback holder in with the original fuse and a small capacity new fuse for the camera.

Don't forget to tidy those cables as this is the space the glovebox shuts into.

I use yellow cable ties so it's easy to see and remove when I sell the car.

y4kke.jpg

 

Check the unit powers up.

l5keu.jpg

 

All done and not visible from my normal driving position.

46m2.jpg

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Fitted a rear Drive Recorder!

 

First off, remove the screw in the boot pull handle.

ztce.jpg

 

And the single screw on each side of the upper tailgate trim.

dxzl.jpg

 

Remove the upper tailgate trims, which then just pull off easilly.

pho1.jpg

 

Pull the boot handle (now the securing screw has been removed) sharply to loosen the pop on trim panel.

1hdi7.jpg

 

Now ease the panel off, which is only held on by pop-in clips that stay on the trim piece, revealing the bare tailgate.

07m49.jpg

 

Clean the rear screen and stick your recoder/dash cam where you want it.

I put it here for two reasons.

1. It's up high as so gets a good view without annoying me in the rear view mirror.

2. it's looking out within the wiper sweep, which is handy when it's raining or the screen is dirty.

3f4mi.jpg

 

As there is no upper trim here, I ran the cable along some guides provided that stick to the glass.

The reason I stuck them here is because it won't be visible from outside.

ujmt.jpg

 

I ran the cable in these guides to the edge, where it will go behind the trim.

etd1.jpg

 

Then attach the cable to the car's own wiring loom to the rear wiper motor.

I use yellow cable ties so I can remove it all easilly if I sell the car.

aavq.jpg

 

 

I couldn't get a ring for the earth cable on the bolt I wanted as it had a captive washer, so I improvised a plug on one instead.

yne0n.jpg

 

Then strip the cables back, attach the earth connector and bolt it onto the 8mm nut that holds the rear wiper motor in place.

This is connected to the metal brace for the motor and therefore the body of the car for a good earth.

 

The rear wiper motor has an ignition positive feed.

Looking at the plug at the bottom of the picture it's the stripy wire at the top, not the black or blue ones.

You have a choice of how to connect it, but I put the positive wire from the camera into the plug and fed it into the correct connector slot.

You could snip the wire on the back of the plug and fit a bullet connector/junction etc... including an inline fuse holder (which I plan to do later)
6fvz.jpg

 

Refit the side trims, taking care not to pinch the wire in the hole where the pop-in fixing goes.

lgrz.jpg

 

Refit the screws on the side trims so they don't fall off when refitting the main boot trim.

Then refit the main boot trim and don't forget the securing screw in the handle.

All done.

9lzei.jpg

 

Check the unit works.
jb8v7.jpg

 

As you can see, the cable is not very visible from inside or outside as it's stuck/clipped to the dark edging of the rear screen.

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Update now I've done 1,400 miles and have the Mountune factory backed remap and airbox on:

 

It's frigging fantastic! :sun:

 

Never knew a small front wheel drive hatchback could be so entertaining without throwing a fair amount of money and aftermarket parts at it.

 

 

Indicator noise still annoys me a bit when I've not got the radio on, but I've got used to everything else including the dash splash button layout.

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how do you feel about the fake engine noise?

 

On the test drive it felt artificial and odd.  I did turn up in a straight six 480bhp Skyline though.

I thought about sticking a rag in the noise tube for the first 200 miles.

Then I got used to it.

 

Embarressingly I quite like it now, makes it feel quicker by adding to the info it tells you about how much load the car is under.

 

 

I'm looking forward to how it goes at HowFast compared to some of the Skodas.

I'm keeping it factory optioned on road rubber for that.

So it'll perform how an ST does, as you can order one with no warranty worries.

  • Like 4
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  • 2 weeks later...

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