So I tried one of those oil extractor things.....

[whitep]

...and found it a bit of a pain, not as straight forward as people say. IMHO

 

I unboxed it, and had a look to figue out how it worked... ok. this pipe fits in there that goes there etc. I found the pipe that fits in the dipstick hole and got ready to do the deed.

 

Engine cover off... there is the oil filter... mega tucked away on the PD VRS compared to the non PD and PD130 engines I am used to. So filter out.. just about. filler cap off dipstick out. Pipe in the dipstick tube as far as it can go, depressurise the recever... ok it crushed in on itself. I must be overenthusiastic. Open the valve and suuuuck, just air. Turns out, I guess, that the pipe is too big to make it into the sump? So I have a play and find a water butt auto water kit pipe fits and manage to spend the next 3 HOURS extracting 4 litres of oil and spilling copious amounts f it everywhere, mainly because the now crushed receiver has reduced in capacity.

 

Am I right in thinking the VS dipstick tube gets narower at the bottom of it? I got 6mm pipe to work but not 8mm?

 

I got te tool from e-bay, but went for one of the more expensive ones. Rockwell I think?

[fairlight5]

Sealy do a great 6l extractor that I use on boats, plant, vehicles, even manky fuel tanks.

It doesn't collapse under vacuum and I wouldn't be without it.

It was £60 a few years ago though.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[Guest]

I had the opportunity to test my diy fluid sucker the other week, draining a pal's power steering fluid.

It's just a windscreen washer pump and some 6mm pipe with a couple of crocodile clips on so it doesn't have the suck to draw up against gravity, but by sucking on the outflow pipe with a large syringe so the pump was primed with fluid first it blasted the contents into a 2litre bottle in no time.

I'm looking forward to doing the oil change when the time comes.

You could suck the pipe manually to prime the pump but I wouldn't recommend it.

[whitep]

Yeah... dad uses a wiper fluid pump. Guess u should go find an old one

[hatchy]

...and found it a bit of a pain, not as straight forward as people say. IMHO

 

I unboxed it, and had a look to figue out how it worked... ok. this pipe fits in there that goes there etc. I found the pipe that fits in the dipstick hole and got ready to do the deed.

 

Engine cover off... there is the oil filter... mega tucked away on the PD VRS compared to the non PD and PD130 engines I am used to. So filter out.. just about. filler cap off dipstick out. Pipe in the dipstick tube as far as it can go, depressurise the recever... ok it crushed in on itself. I must be overenthusiastic. Open the valve and suuuuck, just air. Turns out, I guess, that the pipe is too big to make it into the sump? So I have a play and find a water butt auto water kit pipe fits and manage to spend the next 3 HOURS extracting 4 litres of oil and spilling copious amounts f it everywhere, mainly because the now crushed receiver has reduced in capacity.

 

Am I right in thinking the VS dipstick tube gets narower at the bottom of it? I got 6mm pipe to work but not 8mm?

 

I got te tool from e-bay, but went for one of the more expensive ones. Rockwell I think?

 

It does beggar belief how fiddly they've made it to get the cap off :no: . What I do when I do mine is undo that little bracket just above,that the engine cover fits into and has pipework/wiring also clipped off it. Just makes it a bit easier IMO.

[whitep]

It does beggar belief how fiddly they've made it to get the cap off :no: . What I do when I do mine is undo that little bracket just above,that the engine cover fits into and has pipework/wiring also clipped off it. Just makes it a bit easier IMO.

The kinda T shaped part with two spline bolts holding it on? Yeah I took that off in the end. But you can't assemble the filter to the cap before putting it on. Seems like a broken clip waiting to happen to me.

[jon78]

Was the oil hot when you suck it out? If not, it's like sucking treacle through a straw. I made the mistake the first time I used my extractor of thinking a trip round the block would be enough to get the oil warm enough. Took over an hour to get a few litres out. Now I do the oil changes after driving home from somewhere so that it's up to full temp. Takes 10-15 minutes to get 5 litres of oil out.

[fairlight5]

Was the oil hot when you suck it out? If not, it's like sucking treacle through a straw. I made the mistake the first time I used my extractor of thinking a trip round the block would be enough to get the oil warm enough. Took over an hour to get a few litres out. Now I do the oil changes after driving home from somewhere so that it's up to full temp. Takes 10-15 minutes to get 5 litres of oil out.

As you say, the oil needs to be nice and hot to suck it out.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[vrsmatt1985]

I'm no mechanic but surely draining by the sump plug must be better practice and putting a bit clean

oil in to flush any deposits out.

[fairlight5]

I'm no mechanic but surely draining by the sump plug must be better practice and putting a bit clean

oil in to flush any deposits out.

Some engine installations make draining from the sump plug prohibitively difficult.

A fair few fast fit centers will pull the oil out with an extractor to save time on removing under trays etc and avoid the risk of damaging sump/ plug.

I maintain engines that have run to huge hours with oil extraction as only means of changing the oil.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[cheezemonkhai]

Boats tend to use the extractors and have a pretty hard life.

[rover220]

No excuse not to drain via the plug really. Much better job done all round this way.

[Phil-E]

I have a Pela oil extractor. It's great and can suck out the contents of the sump in about 20 mins. Much easier than scrambling under the car and removing/refitting the undertray.

 

I think you must have gone cheap on the oil extractor?

 

Phil

[whitep]

My extractor looks like the Pela one, almost identical, just badged Rockwell. I think the pipe needs to be narrower to get to the sump, but yes te engine was stone cold when i did it. Next time i will warm her up.

 

I am only using it for a 1/2 way service between official services so hopefully Skoda remove the sump plug when they have it.

[Phil-E]

Maybe you just pumped too hard then?

 

The pipe that came with my Pela is a thin one with metal inside it (so that it's nice and stiff - oo-er).

 

Phil

[classic]

I've got a Pela extracter as well, and it works fine, used many times on different vehicles and engine installations.

Don't know how much difference it makes but I never remove the filter until I've finished emptying the sump.

[Phil-E]

I've got a Pela extracter as well, and it works fine, used many times on different vehicles and engine installations.

Don't know how much difference it makes but I never remove the filter until I've finished emptying the sump.

 

I normally remove the filter first then as any of the oil oil drains back down you can get it from the sump.

 

You can then use the extractor to suck out all the bits of oil in the filter housing.

 

Going to be doing my car soon. Will be the first time I've used it in about 2 years as we had the last service done by Skoda as we still had warranty.

 

Phil

[hatchy]

My extractor looks like the Pela one, almost identical, just badged Rockwell. I think the pipe needs to be narrower to get to the sump, but yes te engine was stone cold when i did it. Next time i will warm her up.

 

I am only using it for a 1/2 way service between official services so hopefully Skoda remove the sump plug when they have it.

 

I wouldn't bank on it. My car was originally on a lease by the look of the paperwork. In December 2010 at 82,000 in went into Lightciffe (warrington) for a 'clutch' but at unit cost of £430 I imagine that was a new DMF as well. It then went back in (Lightcliffe) for an inspection 2 service in August 2011 at 95,000. When I bought it in May 2012 it was on 107,000 and I like to service my own cars as much as possible so got all the necessary bits. On removing the undertray I noticed straight away it was covered in grease in one particular place, investigation showed it was coming from all the spline bolts being loose where one of the drive shafts attach to the diff/gearbox and all the grease had been flung out.Just bloody glad I'd found the problem before it was too late and the driveshaft detached itself     Obviously on doing the DMF/clutch they hadn't done them up properly and then when it went in later for a service they hadn't dropped the oil from sump otherwise they would have noticed the grease for themselves. That's not to say all dealers use an extraction pump for oil changes. Only way to know for sure is check the receipt as the buggers will no doubt charge the quid or so for a new sump bolt    

[FUBAR]

Maybe you just pumped too hard then?

 

The pipe that came with my Pela is a thin one with metal inside it (so that it's nice and stiff - oo-er).

 

Phil

 

 

I've got a Pela extracter as well, and it works fine, used many times on different vehicles and engine installations.

Don't know how much difference it makes but I never remove the filter until I've finished emptying the sump.

 

£46.95 was best I could get delivered! Far cheaper in USA ffs! Best be good, I am holding you two responsible :P 

 

[Phil-E]

That's the same one I have.

 

It is good and they also get good ratings on the web.

 

Just make sure the oil is nice and warm. I do it straight after a run with the engine up to temperature to make it as quick as possible.

 

I will probably be doing a proper job this time round since I will be under the car draning the DSG gear oil out anyway.

 

Phil

[radders567]

This is the one I have.  I use a piece of plastic air brake tubing and it works a treat.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Litre-Syphon-Fluid-Extractor-Pump-Water-Oil-Petrol-Diesel-Car-Van-Engine-4L-/330901233068?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d0b401dac 

[icarusi@hotmail]

Just done an extraction on a 2009 1.4 TSI with a Clas Ohlson syringe, and the dipstick tube would only take a 5mm od tube. The supplied tube was 5mm id. I used an old Waxoyl tube which was a push fit but worked with some oil on it. The push-fit tube connecting to the syringe seemed ok but there must have been a slight air leak. Once I'd clamped it with some garden wire it worked much better.

 

The oil filter isn't budging to any lash-ups, so I'll get a tool, but the replacement, a Mahle OC 593/4 has an outer mating surface which was lifting from the compressible material below. I pushed it back down flat, but looking at TM_Sheet 2012_03_e.pdf  I'm not sure if it's a protecting washer, and should be removed to allow the adhesive under to stick to the engine side. Anyone here know if the oil filter inner sprung section has a sticky surface or a smooth surface?

Edited 11 September, 2014 by icarusi@hotmail

[FUBAR]

That's the same one I have.

 

It is good and they also get good ratings on the web.

 

Just make sure the oil is nice and warm. I do it straight after a run with the engine up to temperature to make it as quick as possible.

 

I will probably be doing a proper job this time round since I will be under the car draning the DSG gear oil out anyway.

 

Phil

 

It did the trick nicely, cheers. 

[zzonyx]

Could anyone pls. suggest, based on own experience, a decent oil extractor (Sealey or similar) powered by compressed air and equipped with a proper suction hose (OD 5mm, it seems) for the TDI 16V 103kW Octavia, reservoir capacity 4...6L? Thank you.

[Golf-Fiend]

Could anyone pls. suggest, based on own experience, a decent oil extractor (Sealey or similar) powered by compressed air and equipped with a proper suction hose (OD 5mm, it seems) for the TDI 16V 103kW Octavia, reservoir capacity 4...6L? Thank you.

 

The Pela one mentioned above does the job perfectly. I have one and the same engine as you.