Canton Subwoofer

[marinkol]

Hi,

 

inspired by project at http://www.skodacommunity.de/skoda-forum/skoda-octavia-iii-forum/81041-canton-soundsystem/index39.html I have decided to replace stock subwoofer from Canton system.

 

First step was to remove existing sub, and findout why I could not detect it working from drivers seat.

 

I have attached picture of subwoofer driver near cd media so you can judge for your self. It is not just tiny in membrane diameter, but it has almost no magnet, so from my point of view, this is just a marketing device with no function at all at subwoofer freqs.

 

 

 

[Genoa1893]

Indeed, never ever seen such small a magnet. Even my bookshelf Dynaudio sports a way larger one!

 

Did you already identify a "suitable", improved replacement part?

Edited 19 January, 2015 by Genoa1893

[marinkol]

Indeed, never ever seen such small a magnet. Even my bookshelf Dynaudio sports a way larger one!

 

Did you already identify a "suitable", improved replacement part?

 

Yes and No. I have selected Cerwin-Vega 3104, as per original project from link above.

 

You can see it on picture in attachemnt behind original driver. It needs new box (20l sealed) which I am trying to fit so that trunk is not affected, but it will also need additional AMP, as original is not good enough for this sensitivity (83dB), and +9 dB subwoofer settting is not loud enough when compared to front drivers event on low volume listening.

 

Is there option to change this volume levels additionaly with VCDS ?

 

If somebody knows how to get new power cable from battery to trunk without  tearing half car apart, I will appritiate it

[conn]

Well you are correct on the not heargin sub in the driver seat. If I sit in the back I can hear it no problem.

 

Would you happen to know what is the max driver original amp can juice? Or it is so bad, that you have to get separate amp anyway?

[marinkol]

Well you are correct on the not heargin sub in the driver seat. If I sit in the back I can hear it no problem.

 

Would you happen to know what is the max driver original amp can juice? Or it is so bad, that you have to get separate amp anyway?

 

I think it is declared as 2x100 W, but it is unknown power rating (I suspect it is not RMS, but "music power") so I suspect it is something lik 50+50W. Subwoofer (original) is stereo, with 4 wires.

 

For 83 dB Cerwin Vega driver, ore any other serious 10" sub, this is not enough.

[TassieVRS]

Hi,

 

inspired by project at http://www.skodacommunity.de/skoda-forum/skoda-octavia-iii-forum/81041-canton-soundsystem/index39.html I have decided to replace stock subwoofer from Canton system.

 

First step was to remove existing sub, and findout why I could not detect it working from drivers seat.

 

I have attached picture of subwoofer driver near cd media so you can judge for your self. It is not just tiny in membrane diameter, but it has almost no magnet, so from my point of view, this is just a marketing device with no function at all at subwoofer freqs.

How did you remove the subwoofer box from the trunk?

[butchvrs]

Is it possible to fit an aftermarket sub into the original Canton enclosure, and use the original signals to power it.

 

I'd like to keep it factory looking but just have some more oomph.

[Brettreading]

So that's the speaker you are charged 500 quid for? What other improvements do you get for your money?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[TassieVRS]

Is it possible to fit an aftermarket sub into the original Canton enclosure, and use the original signals to power it.

I'd like to keep it factory looking but just have some more oomph.

[TassieVRS]

Yeah I've been thinking about this possibility. I have a wiring diagram somewhere listing the rating and impedence on the sub. All I think it would involve would be finding the same size, same impedence driver but much better quality, eg bigger magnet, and retro fitting it. 6.5 inches is not great but the sound could be improved with a better driver.

[KarlO3V5]

I too have the canton and it's all over the place. Will be watching this one!

[butchvrs]

Yeah I've been thinking about this possibility. I have a wiring diagram somewhere listing the rating and impedence on the sub. All I think it would involve would be finding the same size, same impedence driver but much better quality, eg bigger magnet, and retro fitting it. 6.5 inches is not great but the sound could be improved with a better driver.

That's what I'm thinking, especially now I've seen the puny little magnet and depth in marinkol's picture.

 

I need to work out how to remove the factory enclosure so A, I can replace said puny sub and B, see how deep the enclosure is so I can work out how much depth there is to play with.

[Gromle]

How much power does the amp have on the subwoofer channel?

[TassieVRS]

How much power does the amp have on the subwoofer channel?

[TassieVRS]

1x200w (2x100w), 1x4 ohm, 2x8 ohm

[TassieVRS]

That's what I'm thinking, especially now I've seen the puny little magnet and depth in marinkol's picture.

 

I need to work out how to remove the factory enclosure so A, I can replace said puny sub and B, see how deep the enclosure is so I can work out how much depth there is to play with.

Looks like might need to pull back the carpet to undo bolts behind as shown in pic.

 

Here's another angle:

[butchvrs]

I'm wondering if something like this will do the job.

 

http://www.bassjunkies.com/car-audio-dab/car-subwoofers/6.5-subwoofers/jl-audio-6w3v3-4

[Mallettsmallett]

The biggest struggle youll have is the power you have to run it. The oem may be small but it wont take much to power it. That JL will need a bit of welly, even for a small sub. 200@ 4ohm should be ok, if its actually a true 200.

Edited 27 October, 2015 by Mallettsmallett

[butchvrs]

Just had a look at the specs and it needs between 40-150 watts to drive it, so hopefully the standard power from the Canton amp should be enough.

 

hopefully I'll get a chance to take the standard sub out tomorrow and pop along to Bassjunkies as their not a million miles away, and see what they say.

[TassieVRS]

Just had a look at the specs and it needs between 40-150 watts to drive it, so hopefully the standard power from the Canton amp should be enough.

 

hopefully I'll get a chance to take the standard sub out tomorrow and pop along to Bassjunkies as their not a million miles away, and see what they say.

40-150 should be fine - the canton will be able to drive that

[mannyo]

So that's the speaker you are charged 500 quid for? What other improvements do you get for your money?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

I posted a picture a while back of the differences, but its mostly the Sub, additional speakers throughout the car and a digital DSP and separate amps to send only the required frequencies to those speakers.

 

Post 8 in this thread, the image shows the standard audio to the left, and the Canton in the centre.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/310206-canton-sub-pics/

 

Replacing the factory amp is not possible, because it receives a fibre optic input containing digital data, so in addition to the amp, its also the DAC to get the audio out to the speakers. The speaker outputs are also frequency limited and each is driven separately by the amp.

[pipsyp]

I suppose as a 400 quid option over and above standard you cant go expecting audiophile quality componentry.....a useful upgrade over the stock system though.

That said I dont personally feel the stock system sounds bad....just doesnt go loud enough though I think theyve largely resolved this with the MIB2 headunits. Certainly the stock MIB2 system in my Mk7 Golf is plenty loud enough.

[KarlO3V5]

Just had a look at the specs and it needs between 40-150 watts to drive it, so hopefully the standard power from the Canton amp should be enough.

 

hopefully I'll get a chance to take the standard sub out tomorrow and pop along to Bassjunkies as their not a million miles away, and see what they say.

 

Please keep us updated. My only worry is that the Canton amp is the biggest issue in the system - if it's sending a very narrow frequency range then a better sub might not make that much of a difference.

 

However if it does I'll order one straight away

[TassieVRS]

50-100hz is the frequency the amp outputs to the sub channel. Even at that frequency a better quality sub with a heftier magnet will result in a cleaner, tighter, punchier sound.

[Dr Zoidberg]

So that's the speaker you are charged 500 quid for? What other improvements do you get for your money?

 

All of the door speakers are replaced with higher spec items than the standard ones. You get an extra speaker in the centre of the dashboard, and a more powerful amplifier under the passenger seat as well.

 

It was only £400 when I ordered mine, but I didn't think it was a bad price for the improvement over factory standard.