Will do but must admit i'm starting to think I may have imagined it too!!

Mine did exactly the same a while ago. After searching around on here I changed the N75 valve and it has run fine since. I got it from vagparts and it only took 5 mins to fit (and I have trouble changing lightbulbs!)

Have a go, it's a cheap possible cure

Cheers elegance I will keep that in mind. I'll look for any cracked pipes, then tacking it to Dover later to look at a Revo remap, will see if it plays up again then may change the said valve. cheers.

Mr Elegance, excuse my ignorance, but what's the N75 valve? Where in the engine is it?

Ta.

The N75 valve is a small solenoid that regulates when the air is released into the turbo I think. If I remember correctly (it was a while ago) you remove the engine cover and it is at the right hand side of the engine near the top. It has 3 tubes connected to it and a 2 pin electrical connector. It has been covered lots before, i'm sure someone can describe it better than me.

Cheers! Sounds like this may be the prob, and if it's so cheap it's got to be worth doing!

N75? See below:

Thanks Denis! Pics speak a thousand words.

That picture is great thought I was looking in the right place but know I know. can't find any split pipes, can't get it to hessitate at low speed either, but still getting the feeling it not fast enough, now considering a re-map, but not got that many pennies yet!!!!

Just took mine out for a spin, and it surged/lurched again when accelerating in 2nd. Only did it once, but it's obviously a problem. Inspected the engine bay and like you Charlie, no split pipes or anything.

Anyone got a rough idea of cost for a new N75? Would a malfunctioning N75 throw up a fault code?

I find it so frustrating that these days if the garage doesn't get a fault code they give up. Most of them would be lost without their computers!

Anyone got a rough idea of cost for a new N75?

Approx £30 from vagparts. You want an F.

Cheers mate.

Did anyone try my suggestion on page 1?

Have not tried that mainly because I don't know where it is or how you would go about re setting it! only just starting to get used to the car!!

Have not tried that mainly because I don't know where it is or how you would go about re setting it! only just starting to get used to the car!!

Try resetting first just on the off chance. This can be done electronically at a VAG specialist or when the engine is cold open the bonnet and the drivers door. Then turn the ignition on but don't start the engine ie dash lights on and no further. Walk round to the front of the car and you'll hear all sorts of beeping and whirring. This can go on for 20-30 seconds. When it's stopped, shut everything and turn off. Then start the car normally and let it idle for a bit. Job done.

To clean the throttle body it has to be removed. I've circled it in white on Denis' picture. Carb cleaner and a rag is what to use. Then when it's back on the car reset the throttle as described above.

dont suppose it could simply be a characteristic of the engine and the ecu not controlling the overboost properly as mentioned earlier? anyone running aftermarket boost controllers that have noticed an improvement?

I just had mine checked out when being serviced and nothing was found either.

As i've only had my 4x4 a couple of weeks it's going in under warranty. Took the service manager out for spin, floored it and after about 3 seconds we were both held by the seat belts as the boost cut out momentariliy before picking up . After another 5 mins of various speed/gear acceleration surge/hesitate he seemed convinced there is a problem despite no fault codes . I said back at the dealership thats plain dangerous so i want it fixed or you get me another car under the 30 day exchange, so let's see what they come up with.

ttfn Karl

As i've only had my 4x4 a couple of weeks it's going in under warranty. Took the service manager out for spin' date=' floored it and after about 3 seconds we were both held by the seat belts as the boost cut out momentariliy before picking up . After another 5 mins of various speed/gear acceleration surge/hesitate he seemed convinced there is a problem despite no fault codes . I said back at the dealership thats plain dangerous so i want it fixed or you get me another car under the 30 day exchange, so let's see what they come up with.

ttfn Karl[/quote']

Luckily it happened when service manager was with ya, normally the car makes a liar out of you in instances like that. Fair play to you, keep the pressure on.

Btw I know you've no codes but my DV gave similiar problems (I was getting code 17705, mainly happening when cold though in my case)

I had the wastegate control valve (which I think is the same as the N75 valve) replaced under warranty as it was playing up. As the car came to full boost the valve would open and dump it all causing all the power to disappear, it would then build pressure again and dump it. Less noticable in higher gears it really caused the car to lurch in first and second. Oh, there were no fault codes either.

As i've only had my 4x4 a couple of weeks it's going in under warranty. Took the service manager out for spin' date=' floored it and after about 3 seconds we were both held by the seat belts as the boost cut out momentariliy before picking up . After another 5 mins of various speed/gear acceleration surge/hesitate he seemed convinced there is a problem despite no fault codes . I said back at the dealership thats plain dangerous so i want it fixed or you get me another car under the 30 day exchange, so let's see what they come up with.

ttfn Karl[/quote']

When you say "floored it" did you really give it the full beans and was it from stand still?

May be someting to do with ASR/ESP? I know ASR cuts the engine to prevent spin and it is pretty violent to say the least.

Wasn't really luck the service manager was in the car, i'd had a chat with the salesman who sold it

No, i floored it at about 25/30 on the slip road to motorway, so i could get up to speed. Thats why i said it was dangerous as the 1st time it happened i was overtaking a van in the outside lane and the power just went for a split second - almost brown trouser time :eek:

What gets me is the car was ok for the 1st week or so and it doesn't do it all the time, especially if accelerating slowy :confused:

Surely there are enough VAG 1.8t engines about that this should show up as a recall/manufacturing fault, how many just on this forum ?

The N75 valve is a small solenoid that regulates when the air is released into the turbo I think. If I remember correctly (it was a while ago) you remove the engine cover and it is at the right hand side of the engine near the top. It has 3 tubes connected to it and a 2 pin electrical connector. It has been covered lots before, i'm sure someone can describe it better than me.

hi as a 20v elegance owner as well im interested in getting a bit more poke without spending on a remap. Does your filter make any differance?

Can u tell me the cost and the model etc

cheers

Doogser

Hi All

New on the forum.

I have had my Oct VRS for 3 years I had a similar problem last your took it to the dealer who also said no fault found!! I know there's a bloody fault still I left it & eventually it got so bad that I took it back they again read the memory found 2 faults bottom boost hose was soft & a breath had split, so I replaced them (used to me a mechanic) seemed ok for week or so & now it's back going to take it back get them to read the memory again see what they say.... but it's driving me NUTS

I had teh same problem with my S2 Escort RS Turbo problem there was the Actuator replaced it wit a Garrat -34 it then held the boost all the way to 7200rpm, well it did after I modified the limiter ;-)

I think the VRS has the same issue so does anyone know what & where to get an uprated actuator?

Regards

Alex

You will be better off starting a new thread mate as this is 3.5 years old, most peeple will miss your post and re-start the old disscusion.

I'll lock this one.