Looking at your advert, that will probably be just right for an Estate which is 247 mm longer. (9 3/4")

Did they have a car there to make the exhaust on then? I assume you went with them due to cheapness? Or were they recommended by tmg?

Did they have a car there to make the exhaust on then? I assume you went with them due to cheapness? Or were they recommended by tmg?

 

Yes they had a matrix from another vRS they had made an exhaust for, I just wouldn't trust somebody building an entire exhaust system for my car without any reference!  I think the error was introduced when I asked for the end tips to be replaced with a neatter solution, the Y-splitter. Somebody must have measured erroneously at that point.

 

Funny that you ask this I actually I went with them for both: very reasonable price for what it is and nice quality materials and also had the TMG approval 

Was it cheaper than the big guys then?

Was it cheaper than the big guys then?

 

Yes. £680 for the full exhaust (with CAT and mufflers) + £90 shipping was still much lower than the quotes I got from the big names. And that's 2.76" piping all the way from the turbo to the tips (no 2.5" cat-back reduction).

A quick question on the GFB diverter valve, now that I noticed it. Is there any gains to be made on it, or is it just a preventive measure? The standard DV isn't failure prone on these engines correct, even with stage 1?

 

Has the GFB one resulted in added throttle response? I like the idea of having a more accurate throttle and that wouldn't be a big investment. 

Edited 13 May, 201511 yr by Laars

There aren't any gains as in more power or torque (obviously) but it is beneficial for two reasons: 1) More robust design (metal parts instead of stock plastic) that prevent any boost leaks when running more pressure than stock and 2) (more important) is the progressive opening/closing as opposed to either fully open or closed stock operation. This is very noticeable during high boost shifts when typically, the stock DV momentarily releases all pressure, cars feels as if you're lifting off (even if you aren't) and then pushes forward again when pressure has re-built up. With the GFB, this hesitation is eliminated as it only releases pressure progressively, it is actually a very clever design if you watch the "how-it-works" video on the GFB page. It's a great upgrade with no downsides and as you say, a rather small investment. I would definitely choose it over every other typical pneumatic alternative.

Okay, so it sounds like what I'm after. I do notice it on high boost shifts, for a brief moment it seems to lose pull and then picks up again and this is most certainly noticeable. So I assume this would make it feel more linear. 

Edited 13 May, 201511 yr by Laars

I do notice it on high boost shifts, for a brief moment it seems to lose pull and then picks up again and this is most certainly noticeable. So I assume this would make it feel more linear. 

 

That is exactly what I was experiencing right after I got the stage 1 map on. I think the stock valve is designed to barely put up with stock pressure levels so you notice this as soon as you go higher in power. To be honest, the same day I installed the GFB I also installed the harder engine mount so I was not sure how much of the improvement was due to the uprated DV and how much was due to the engine mount, in the end they are both working towards smoother acceleration I guess, although following completely different paths.

DV ordered, thanks Newbie

Do you guys do logs? I would like to measure the performance of the stock diverted compared to the gfb one I have to install. I'm guessing I need to log requested boost pressure and actual. Anything else?

Do you guys do logs? I would like to measure the performance of the stock diverted compared to the gfb one I have to install. I'm guessing I need to log requested boost pressure and actual. Anything else?

 

I've done quite a few lately. The VCDS coding for our cars is a mess, there are no group-split measurement blocks but just hundreds of values (some with absurd names) thrown all together in the Advanced Meas. section. I only manage to find actual boost (goes by the name: "charge air pressure; actual") but not the specified one.

 

I think by logging boost pressure, you should see the difference we've described during shifting can't think of any other property for this purpose. Also, the least logged values the better, just log rpm and boost imho, after a certain point, VCDS can not record data quick enough to be of real use.

That is exactly what I was experiencing right after I got the stage 1 map on. I think the stock valve is designed to barely put up with stock pressure levels so you notice this as soon as you go higher in power. To be honest, the same day I installed the GFB I also installed the harder engine mount so I was not sure how much of the improvement was due to the uprated DV and how much was due to the engine mount, in the end they are both working towards smoother acceleration I guess, although following completely different paths.

I found the updated dog bone mount on the engine made a huge difference in how the car felt and changed gear under load.

Sounds like a lovely combo of mods there newbie, very complementary

Ok, time for an update on this one as I was deliberately postponing it for a second dyno run which I now don't think will be taking place any more. So, full TBE went on end of May, I've already wrote my impressions on that one on a separate thread, and then the remap was done from my tuner for the stage 2 map.

 

As I had noticed by several logs that I did after I moved to Sweden, even before the stage 2 map, when on full throttle and past 3K there was quite some retardation (up to -6 degrees) that wasn't there before or at least as noticeable when driving the car and asking for 100% power. It is worth noting that there is no 100 or even 99ron options anywhere in Sweden (car always had 100 ron when in France) and apparently this has a slight but clear effect on performance. The dyno run after stage 2 map confirmed it.

 

Even if DynoJet is a stricter dyno than MAHA, similar setups from TMG usually see ~230-235 bhp engine power. My result: 223.6 bhp / 330 Nm and that was while struggling to get a proper run (rr guy had issues with TC and the DSG...). There was another run where it showed 225 but then it shifted up so it was cancelled. Even so, it is a +12 bhp gain in engine power from my stage 1 (that one was 211 engine/227 corrected) but I felt like there was more to get out of it. The idea after discussion with my tuner, was to try a bit of Torco race fuel which has proven results. Indeed, when I made a 100ron mixture and logged the car the retardations where at least halved and in some cases reduced completely. That was mainly to rule out any possible issues with the map, which would actually surprise me if it was the case. And it wasn't. With 100ron in, the car felt that bit more "free" and the logs absolutely confirmed that. So, I hadn't written anything here as the plan was to re-do the dyno run with a 100ron fuel/Torco mix just to know what is the actual power the car can make and whether it could get to 230 bhp engine power as other TMG Stage 2 superchargers do which I am currently totally confident it can do.

 

However, for several reasons I won;t be travelling another 200km in total for a dyno run. I was also kind of disappointed I can't be getting my hands on good 100 ron fuel any more plus the slightly noisy exhaust (others think it' sounds great though) have in a way put me off from further tuning. On the road, the difference between s1 and s2 is not that huge, barely noticeable I'd say if you don't go above 4.5K.  I have to admit though the way the car accelerates up to 110 mph now has made it very very difficult to find a similar/quicker alternative without spending a lot of money and still having a reasonably new and practical car, especially the 50-80 acceleration is phenomenal for what the car practically is. I may make some videos after the summer holidays.

 

All in all, satisfied with the map but I feel that the best value for money is by far a stage 1 map maybe with a few upgraded peripherals for extra security. If you are paying for a full TBE then you might as well move on to BT or at least hybrid setups to really make it worthwhile financially (well... ) and as a reimbursement for the comfort loss due to the extra exhaust noise, unless you are one of the people that love to sound mean, so then it's a win-win situation. 

 

 

PS. Ok, I might admit that the sound of a cold start-up and idle now is clearly sexier, but the roar when you semi-floor it between 3 and 4K is excessive. Minus that last part I would be totally loving it.