Grrr, the guard has fully detached on the way home this evening, now constantly rattling, a noise similar to dragging the exhaust along the road.

 

There is no way of it coming away completely, and it is still secure enough not to contact the disc, wheel or tyre but I can't leave it as it is all next week - some 600 miles.

 

I have a spare hour in the morning, time to get the tin snips out 

Thats unlucky!  on mine it was just the top mounting bolt area that had rotted so the shield was still secure but was touching the disc at times so a cable tie mod sorted it until i replaced them. 

That might be an option, since the wheel is going to have to come off I'm going to swap back to my summer wheels tomorrow.

 

It will give me a good chance to have a look around down there!

 

I got some funny looks driving close to home from pedestrians, "look at that idiot, his car must be buggered!" 

That makes sense, the lip on my discs is actually quite pronounced.

 

The bolts are M14 on the rears, they may be Allen bolts on the front calipers perhaps?

 

I also am a fan of copper slip, you only need to be sat next to your car trying to free a wheel that has welded itself to the face of the hub whilst on a jack to really appreciate a light smear of copper slip!

 

I also apply a small amount to my wheel nuts (not recommended as it may lead to over-tightening / torquing of the steels bolts into the softer alloy).

 

I understand the melting point of copper slip is lower than dedicated brake grease, so if the brakes get hot this heat transfers to the wheel / hub etc. which melts the copper slip. It then runs onto the disc / pad and adversely affects braking performance.

 

Again, I am aware of the risks but apply it sensibly, has worked for me for several years.

 

The allen key is for the slider pins so that you can separate the caliper from the caliper carrier.  The M14 triplesquare is for the bolts that attach the caliper carrier to the hub.  No?

 

If there is enough copper grease that it is melting onto the brakes then there is too much.  You only need a really thin coating - like putting on sunscreen or lip balm.  Like a teflon coating.  If there are any chunks or excess then it's too much.  /re-reads post - I think you have the idea of it.

 

I put lube (moly grease because it's handy) on wheel nuts & hubs too - again, it's so little that you wouldn't think it was worthwhile.

Caliper bolts are normal bolts,slider pins have a threaded hole in,carrier bolts are a multi spline head on the octavia (well mine anyway). 

The allen key is for the slider pins so that you can separate the caliper from the caliper carrier.  The M14 triplesquare is for the bolts that attach the caliper carrier to the hub.  No?

 

Not sure to be honest, this weekend I only got as far as removing the caliper from out of the caliper carrier.

 

I jacked the car up on Saturday morning and whipped off the rear wheel to take a look. The guard had indeed completely separated from the three bolts holding it on. It was therefore sat on top of the hub bouncing against the back of the disc (the guard is already off at this point, sorry, no before pics).

 

 

At this point I didn't have the piston rewind tool or the M14 square spline so was in two minds whether or not to hold it off the disc using a plastic tie-wrap to get me through until next weekend.

 

After a closer look I decided that by removing the caliper I'd be able to get much better access and would be able to cut it off. I was slightly apprehensive that if I removed the caliper it might not go back on due to movement in the piston and/or the lip around the outer edge of the disc. Even with the handbrake off when I span the disc it was in light contact with the pads suggesting to me that there wasn't much tolerance if things moved before I got the caliper back on!

 

Decided to take the plunge anyway.

 

A good dose of WD40 and a 13mm and 15mm ring spanner was all that was needed to remove the caliper, a bit of wiggling and it released it's grip on the pads. The pads stayed firm against the carrier / disc.

 

 

 

 

I then released the handbrake cable and held the caliper out of the way with a bungee around the shock.

 

 

This gave much better access to the guard but without removing the caliper carrier and disc it wasn't coming off without being cut off. Cue the tin snips. A couple of chops and a little brute force it came off...

 

 

 

At this point I'm thinking will the hub need to come off when it comes to fitting the new guard. It is hard to tell in this picture where the hub ends and the disc starts but to me the hub diameter is quite big, bigger than the open section in the middle of the guard. Will it be enough to allow the guard to pass over the hub?

 

 

 

I gave everything a good clean whilst I had access...

 

 

A bit of copper slip on the back of the pads to make life easier next weekend...

 

 

The old guard had failed around all three securing points. I am aware of me knocking it when taking the wheels off in the past but I am surprised at how easily it has failed. You can see the serrated nature of the holes compared with the brand new one (which arrived this morning ready for next weekend!)...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 20 April, 201511 yr by silver1011

Told you it was good manly fun when you can smack two spanners in opposite directions to make a bolt turn.

They were tight too, I just managed to get them to release before my strength ran out.

 

I do enjoy working on my car... when things go well 

A word of warning for anyone else doing this.

 

Take care not to clobber the ring magnets in the wheel hubs. If the car is old enough for the guards to have corroded then the rings might be getting fragile as well.

 

I nobbled me ring taking off a loose guard and had to replace the sodding hub anyway.

 

I thinks it's a poor bit of design. The guards are aluminium and there is no insulator on the bolts so you get galvanic corrosion where they meet.

Edited 21 April, 201511 yr by Aspman

Are the rings inside the hub, what do they do, are they for the ABS sensors?

Are the rings inside the hub, what do they do, are they for the ABS sensors?

 

No they sit on the inner face of the hub.

 

The ABS sensors have two parts really, the magnetic ring and the little sensor receiver (a bit like a bicycle speedo really).  The receiver picks up pulses from the ring which allow it to measure the speed of the wheel. The ABS system puts together the info from the 4 wheels and can detect wheelspin, skids, low pressure etc all from difference in speed between the wheels.

 

The magnet is just steel and commonly they start to rust. Eventually a little bit falls off and the pulses start to look odd to the car and you get the 3 abs related lights on the dash.

 

When I removed a loose guard I must have knocked the ring and a bit fell out and I had to do the hub anyway. the ring is fixed into the hub so although it's only 50p of cheap steel you need to change the whole thing.

 

Could be worse the wife got told the same ring on her BMW is rusting and it'll be £1600 to fix when it goes because it sits on the driveshaft on beemers. trying to get her to punt it before it goes.

I did the shield repair job last year, here is my write-up:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/311521-rear-brake-disc-shield-replacement/

 

To do it properly requires removing the hub on the rear but that requires a new stretch bolt from the main dealer (approx £5 each). it whilst you are there. Speaking from experience I would only fit the genuine one made by FAG (available from GSF for about £75). Cheap pattern ones can have the wrong number of poles causing the ABS to come up with a fault after driving for a short distance.

 

Kevin

The bit you cut off on the old one is the bit i cut off on my new ones when i fitted them without removing the hub,if you want to fit them complete then you will have to remove the hub & refit using a new bolt as KevinSt  has said in his post & guide. They will fit over the hub with that section cut out. 

That's a shame, I'd hoped Skoda might have applied a little common sense that would allow the shield to fit over the hub.

 

Nevermind, I won't be removing the hub so assuming the Superb is the same as the Octavia (it sure looks identical) I'll be cutting the guards too.

 

I wonder if the M14 square spline bolts holding the caliper carriers have thread lock on them which is why they are so hard to release?

They may have (cant remember to be honest) best thing to do is clean out the bolt head & make sure the spline tool is a good fit in the bolt head & use a good size breaker bar,access is tricky but i had no problems. just make sure the bolt head is clear of rust & muck & give the spline tool a tap with a hammer so its a good fit in the bolt & you will be fine. 

Will do Mikey, I have a breaker bar which isn't too long so should fit inside the wheel arch.

 

When I was under there last weekend I gave the bolts a good squirt with WD40 too.

Just had a thought,make sure the car is jacked up quite high as its easier to access the bolts with the breaker bar from underneath not from above as you get a better pull to crack the bolts off.......will make sense when you do the job! 

Good tip 

 

Although I have a feeling my knuckles aren't going to enjoy it!

Just had a thought,make sure the car is jacked up quite high as its easier to access the bolts with the breaker bar from underneath not from above as you get a better pull to crack the bolts off.......will make sense when you do the job! 

 

When I did my rear discs I only had a 600mm breaker at the time and came to the conclusion that the only way I was going to get the bottom carrier bolt undone was from right under. Of course the bar was too long for this so ensued a comedic few minutes of me digging a bloody hole in the gravel/dirt drive so I could get the clearance for it.  . When I did my rear hub the other week I by that time had a 400mm breaker so no hole needed. The hub bolt was done with the 600mm one though and with a pipe extension on that too when doing it up. At one point before digging the hole I was sizing up whether I could lift the back end of the car with the farm JCB TM310S to get it high enough off the ground.

Having had to change a hub I found the large M18 splined hub bolt easy to deal with compared to the two M14 splined carrier bolts. The problem with the latter is that they have serrated washers and combined with the poor access they can be very difficult to get started. My bottom bolt was so tight that I had to remove the top one and then move the whole carrier around in the appropriate direction to slacken the lower bolt enough to get it started!

 

I think that it is one of those jobs that is fairly straightforward with a long breaker bar and access to a garage lift. If you only have a jack and some axle stands then it is going to be a struggle :-(.

Hello everyone. Just to bring this thread up again. I'm going to be doing my rear brakes soon as i have already done the fronts and then noticed the rears are very low. I phoned vw to try and get 4 new caliper carrier bolts the spline ones as i heard that they have to be changed as are stretch bolts but they said i would have to buy caliper as well. Does anybody know where i can buy them on their own or do they really have to be replaced as some people re-use them and some don't.thanks in advance and also when i change my rear disks and pads would it be helpful to take pictures as I'm doing it on my drive way on axle stands and found a good way to access spline bolts as i have loosened and re-tightened them all ready in preparation.

3 hours ago, RogerRamjet said:

Hello everyone. Just to bring this thread up again. I'm going to be doing my rear brakes soon as i have already done the fronts and then noticed the rears are very low. I phoned vw to try and get 4 new caliper carrier bolts the spline ones as i heard that they have to be changed as are stretch bolts but they said i would have to buy caliper as well. Does anybody know where i can buy them on their own or do they really have to be replaced as some people re-use them and some don't.thanks in advance and also when i change my rear disks and pads would it be helpful to take pictures as I'm doing it on my drive way on axle stands and found a good way to access spline bolts as i have loosened and re-tightened them all ready in preparation.

I bought replacement carrier bolts front and rear for my vRS when I did the brakes. They were pretty expensive from SKODA especially the front from memory.  I'll dig out the receipt and part numbers - I doubt the mounting bolts are any different for models running smaller discs. If you know the thread size and pitch you could probably get high tensile versions from an engineering fixing place at vastly reduced cost.

 

I don't think replacement is required for the first time. Second or third probably.  But I also liked the security of having them on hand in case the ones I removed looked knacked or got damaged in the process. I too had to do it on the drive and no backup car to pop down to the motor factors or SKODA dealer...

Thanks Theclient just the way i was thinking, better to have them to hand for the just in case it happens. I would use them again second time as a majority of people say clean them up, inspect for damage, copper grease them and torque them back up but don't do the extra quarter turn.

18 hours ago, RogerRamjet said:

Thanks Theclient just the way i was thinking, better to have them to hand for the just in case it happens. I would use them again second time as a majority of people say clean them up, inspect for damage, copper grease them and torque them back up but don't do the extra quarter turn.

For a mk2 FL, 2011 vRS the following parts were correct:

 

Front Caliper Carrer Bolts N90948802 Cost £3.80 plus VAT each

Rear Caliper Carrier Bolts N91006802 Cost 1.85 plus VAT each

 

Think the fronts were M14x35mm, Rears M12 x 65mm

 

You should cross reference to make sure same fitment for your car before buying.

Thanks will do.