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Hi. This is my first post but I have been watching the forum for years. I am currently on my 4th Octavia the previous 3 being company cars. I now have my own Octavia lll 1.6 TDI Elegance. I fitted night breaker H7 bulbs and Osram cool blue H15s today. The DLR lights are really dim when the dipped beams are lit. Does anyone in the Rochdale area know how to code them to be brighter?

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Why don't you just disable the H15 for DRL function and keep it for main beam only?

Then buy some LED's for the fog lights and set them as DRL's at 70% brightness, they could also be set as side lights at say 5% brightness.

This way they look good and you don't have to compromise with the awkward H15 bulb

All easy with VCDS, the fogs would have 4 functions:

Fog light 100% brightness (who really uses this though)

DRL 70%

Side light 5-10%

Cornering light 100%

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If you PM me a copy of you 09 adaptation map in excel I will post on here the changes you need to make.

Just let me know if you want to do all, or only some of my suggestions

Thanks

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To Newbie above - I suggest the DLR should not be bright when on dipped beam as they do not have a flat cut-off so, if brighter, will blind oncoming traffic.  Park car facing a blank wall - look at the patterns while rotating through the beam options (you might have to blank off the dipped lights at some stage of this test).

 

First construct the standard ‘on the wall’ beam-setting geometry which may be found at

            http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

 

I have not read any threads that comment on the main beam pattern.  I see mine as something like V rather than a horizontal flat oval that I have seen in other cars.  The oval shape is implied in Daniel’s descriptions as well as in light manufacturers’ blurbs about the length and spread of their beams.  Having a ‘V’ makes it difficult to set a ‘hot spot’; and in the far distance, the middle of the V creates a black area where one really needs some lighting to see obstructions on the road…  I had this pattern in my Mk2 and now in the Mk3.

Question: has anyone managed to overcome this aspect?

 

The next question concerns the best bulbs as in this thread. 

For my dipped beam (the outboard light of the headlamp unit) I have replaced the standard H7s with… Phillips +130% X-treme Vision bulbs.  It says on the box 3,700 kelvin and + 45 meters further than the standard.  Twin pack at 28.00 € from Amazon.

These work very well, giving an intense white patch of dipped beam (deep and wide with sharp cut-offs).   The +45 meters could assist the far end of the dipped pattern.

 

One might bear in mind http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-7037.html that tested H7s.  They suggest the Osram Nightbreaker Intense might be better than the Phillips X-treme as the former lights up the distance better, while the latter lights up the foreground.  I find the X-treme good enough so far working as a dipped beam.

 

For my main beam (the inboard light of the headlamp unit) I initially replaced the standard H15s with… Xenon Super White: Super Plazma Xenon Bulbs which state on the box they run at 7,500 kelvin. Twin pack @ 27.50 € from Amazon.

I do not think these give what it says on the pack… they perform poorly providing little support at the distant end of the beam. Please remember my comments about the V beam pattern and read the next discussion about bulb coatings).

I have now reverted to the standard (clear) bulbs but may consider the uprated Osram Cool Blue Intense rated at 3,700 kelvin as they are not heavily blue-coated.

 

Please take note of a discussion of lighting colour and visibility (both for being seen and for seeing) at

            http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html

 

Given Daniel’s suggestion one needs bulbs to give about 3,500 kelvin and have a clear bulb, not blue coated… my set-up now concurs with his suggestions with standard clear H15s for the dipped and lightly blued H7s for the main.

Question: has anyone found H15s that are clear and uprated other than the Osram mentioned above?

Edited by johnbkidd
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Has anyone found anything further about these H15 bulbs and variants (that are legit) as I too have put the Philips X-Treme +130% H7's in and find them brilliant, but now looking to upgrade the H15's and not finding any luck. Dealerships struggle with telling anything more about the H15's and lots have no stock and have never had to order them in yet!

Eurocarparts has nothing etc.

It seems OSRAM are holding all the cards on this product type and not doing a great deal about it.

 

I'm reluctant to buy cheap foreign product as its never going to be good...

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As I said earlier in the thread Bobo, I suspect Osram have a patent on the mount. There is an Osram Cool Blue variant at least, which is better than standard. The sidelights are still custard yellow though. The intensity needs turning up to the same % as the DRL. I cannot believe this would dazzle anyone as the DRLs aren't exactly powerful.

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1600cr the H15 bulb is a twin filament 55/15w bulb, 55 being main beam, 15 being the DRL, voltage to the DRL is reduced to change this to the dimmer side light

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Got it, I thought the DRL was the same brightness as side lights.

I've got mine turned off, I'll try them on and see if they're less yellow. - if they are i'll just increase the side light to the same as DRL.

I thought about adding HID to the H15 but was worried about the warm up time and damaging them with flashing.

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Is there a difference between DRL and sidelights ?

If there is, do the DRLs then dim to sidelights when the main lights come on ?

DRLs are 15 W, normal sidelights are 5 W, which I assume is what the DRLs dim to when the headlights are turned on. If used in the dark DRLs will dazzle oncoming traffic.

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2008 onwards : EU directive on DRL

http://ec.europa.eu/transport/road_safety/topics/vehicles/daytime_running_lights/index_en.htm

All vehicles sold in EU since 2011 are required to have DRLs installed as per European Union Directive 2008/89/EC. 

Note also a Wiki text on DRL

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp

 

There is a comprehensive discussion of lighting regulations and developments in

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp

 

Note the section on Regulations and Requirements, in particular click on the 'ECE high beam image' to get a full screen view.

 

Does this concur with your subjective vision of your Octy III halogen lamps? 

 

As I have asked above – why is there a dark patch in the distance while, as in this image, the trees left & right are lit, even high up?  To me, this is dangerous.

 

And note that frigging about with power output and changing the DRLs to other light units is illegal across the EU.

Edited by johnbkidd
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As I have asked above – why is there a dark patch in the distance while, as in this image, the trees left & right are lit, even high up? To me, this is dangerous.

Because either there is nothing there for the light to reflect off or anything that is there is too far away to be brightly illuminated. The dark patch is exactly where the light is brightest. If you want things in the distance to be as bright as those closer to, you will need a tightly focussed spotlight that would be impractical to use on the road.

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DRLs are 15 W, normal sidelights are 5 W, which I assume is what the DRLs dim to when the headlights are turned on. If used in the dark DRLs will dazzle oncoming traffic.

15W isn't enough to drive by in the dark, therefore It would only dazzle drivers if the light was significantly brighter than the light 'spill' from the dipped beam. I'm not convinced this is the case.

post-129718-0-79550400-1448828937_thumb.jpeg DRL

post-129718-0-15002500-1448828976_thumb.jpeg Side light

post-129718-0-70959100-1448829017_thumb.jpeg Dipped beam

post-129718-0-88144000-1448829067_thumb.jpeg Full beam

Edited by webweasel
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Rodge - you said ..."Because either there is nothing there for the light to reflect off or anything that is there is too far away to be brightly illuminated. The dark patch is exactly where the light is brightest. If you want things in the distance to be as bright as those closer to, you will need a tightly focussed spotlight that would be impractical to use on the road".

 

But look closely at the road surface and trees... the road surface illumination seems to falter well before the lit trees at the road side. There is '... something there' - it is the road surface in the quoted Wiki picture if viewed full screen - and if I were driving along I would like to know there was a road, not a large hole.

Edited by johnbkidd
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Having just purchased some H7's on a cyber monday deal - I'm looking forward to osram coming up with a solution for the H15 problem - is it totally reliant on the gas in the bulb or is it the filament? I guess if it's white at 5W it'll burn out or be to white at 15W?

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To lpt100.

The H15 are twin filament bulbs (just like the old main/dipped H4).  So the 15w acts as the DRL and as the sidelight (dropped to 5W) while the other coil works only as the main at 55W.

In a sense it does not matter much if the DRL part of the bulb is slightly blue - offering a cosmetic tint to unlight lamps.  But the main part of the bulb must be clear to allow as much as possible of the electrical energy to be sent to the road as light.  Any painting reduces the light output.

 

I don't know, but it is entirely possible, that Osram holds a patent on H15 which is why there is no aftermarket competition other than foreign (maybe of high quality, don't always deride), or by LED constructs that are sufficiently different so they do not break the patent rule.

Edited by johnbkidd
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The cool blue H15s have a blue tinted bulb. The tint is such that when at full beam they are 3700k but the drl is yellower and the sidelights yellower still. If they'd made it bluer the full beam would be too blue and they wouldn't be legal. Which is why the packet uses the weasel words "up to 3700k".

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admap received.  i think these are the changes you need to make, please apply and then complete a light check:

 

 

To disable H15 DRL and side light:

(4)-Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lichtfunktion A 4 from Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht; Positionslicht; Begrenzungslicht) to not active

(12)-Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lichtfunktion E 4 from Daytime running light to not active

(4)-Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lichtfunktion A 5 from Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht; Positionslicht; Begrenzungslicht) to not active

(12)-Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lichtfunktion E 5 from Daytime running light to not active

 

To add functions to fog light:

Left side:

(1)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lasttyp 12 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 6 – LED lichtmodul

(5)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion B 12 from not active to Abbiegelicht links

(12)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion E 12 from not active to Daytime running light

(13)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion F 12 from not active to left high beam

(14)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Dimmwert EF 12 from 0 to 100

(16)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion G 12 from not active to Standlight allgemein

(18)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Dimmwert GH 12 from 0 to 10%

 

Right side

(1)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lasttyp 13 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 6 – LED lichtmodul

(5)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion B 13 from not active to Abbiegelicht Rechts

(12)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion E 13 from not active to Daytime running light

(13)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion F 13 from not active to right high beam

(14)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Dimmwert EF 13 from 0 to 100

(16)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion G 13 from not active to Standlight allgemein

(18)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Dimmwert GH 13 from 0 to 10%

 

Change coming home leaving home from dipped beam & H15 to fog light only

(4)-Comfort illumination-Coming Home Leuchten from low beam to fog light

(8)-Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lichtfunktion C 4 from Coming Home oder Leaving Home aktiv to not active

(8)-Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lichtfunktion C 5 from Coming Home oder Leaving Home aktiv to not active

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