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rear calliper carrier bolts


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I've just got my two drivers side loose with my 450mm breaker bar. It's a perfect length for good leverage but not too long it doesn't catch on the arch liner. I will add though, they didn't seem as tight as the other side.

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Do they need to be replaced with new ones when you take the old ones out?

Strictly speaking yes but I don't bother & haven't had an issue yet.  I think you can get away with it at least once.  They aren't expensive to buy though & you could always replace with a standard grade 8 bolt from a fastener supplies.

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Done this job a few times on various VAG cars - and have had the deep gashes and black fingernails to prove it! The best way that I found was by using a variety of different length extention bars and a trolley jack! When everything is in place, use the jack to push upwards on a block of wood, that is beneath the 1/2" socket and bar. Do this carefully means no effort by you and effectively you are trying to lift the car by turning the bolt! A bit of a faff to line everything up, but when you do, just comes undone with a crack, and after that it winds out fairly easily. Still not a job I would want to do on a regular basis!

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Done this job a few times on various VAG cars - and have had the deep gashes and black fingernails to prove it! The best way that I found was by using a variety of different length extention bars and a trolley jack! When everything is in place, use the jack to push upwards on a block of wood, that is beneath the 1/2" socket and bar. Do this carefully means no effort by you and effectively you are trying to lift the car by turning the bolt! A bit of a faff to line everything up, but when you do, just comes undone with a crack, and after that it winds out fairly easily. Still not a job I would want to do on a regular basis!

Cunning!

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

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Done this job a few times on various VAG cars - and have had the deep gashes and black fingernails to prove it! The best way that I found was by using a variety of different length extention bars and a trolley jack! When everything is in place, use the jack to push upwards on a block of wood, that is beneath the 1/2" socket and bar. Do this carefully means no effort by you and effectively you are trying to lift the car by turning the bolt! A bit of a faff to line everything up, but when you do, just comes undone with a crack, and after that it winds out fairly easily. Still not a job I would want to do on a regular basis!

I honestly can't see how you've done that buddy. With various arms and linkages in the way the only gap i could find to get decent leverage was with the breaker bar pointing upwards under the arch. To use a jack I'm presuming the bar would have to run horizontal?

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I honestly can't see how you've done that buddy. With various arms and linkages in the way the only gap i could find to get decent leverage was with the breaker bar pointing upwards under the arch. To use a jack I'm presuming the bar would have to run horizontal?

Ah, but you don't need decent leverage as the jack will do that on even a very short bar.  I forgot to mention that I also had the disc supported on an axle stand so the vehicle's weight was resting on that point in that corner of the car - the geometry changed sufficiently for the linkages to be out of the way enough to do this.   I'm not saying its easy, just that this method doesn't require any of your muscle to do it :sun:

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Ah, but you don't need decent leverage as the jack will do that on even a very short bar. I forgot to mention that I also had the disc supported on an axle stand so the vehicle's weight was resting on that point in that corner of the car - the geometry changed sufficiently for the linkages to be out of the way enough to do this. I'm not saying its easy, just that this method doesn't require any of your muscle to do it :sun:

Ah ok that explains it. I didn't see enough room in there to do it that way even with a normal ratchet. Great ideas for someone struggling with these bolts though. My drivers side bolts came undone a lot easier than the passenger side which also had heat on them. It's the access that's the problem.

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Ah ok that explains it. I didn't see enough room in there to do it that way even with a normal ratchet. Great ideas for someone struggling with these bolts though. My drivers side bolts came undone a lot easier than the passenger side which also had heat on them. It's the access that's the problem.

Yeah, that was a key point that I missed out there!

This method actually works really well in a variety of situations - even used it (very carefully!!) when undoing an overtightened VW sump drain plug as can be a bitch to pull in a straight plain (due to its location) without the socket slipping off a hex head and mangling it up.   Now if only I had a pit.. :notme:

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  • 3 years later...

Hey guys, I'm trying to undo these carrier bolts and I'm losing the will to live.

 

Might be a daft question, but which way do they undo? Would I be pulling up or pushing down on the breaker bar? I'm on the passenger side 

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Job done with the M14 spline and a 600mm breaker bar. 

 

Reused the bolts this time but will get some new ones next time the pads are changed. Hope the fronts aren't as challenging!

Edited by alanpartridge
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  • 9 months later...
On 21/03/2021 at 16:18, Toppen said:

Just tried to attemp this on my 2010 Scout. Had a breakerbar and typically my luck i managed to snap the bolt head off. Any advise on how to get it off now?

Maybe remove the whole stub axel from the car and attempt to drill/tap it out on a bench.

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