1 hour ago, RobClubley said:

 

Nice! The noise from the rally car!!

 

 

 

 

Both cars sounded nice, but the real deal does sound awesome. The brakes were a shock though even if the performance wasn't and that's including the crazy drag from all those wings. 

I recently tested the RS3 and wanted to keep it.

 

https://www.drivelife.co.nz/2022/06/2022-audi-rs3-sportback-car-review/

 

It sounds great over 4000rpm

Are you still reviewing, Rob? I don't see your links any more, or am I looking in the wrong place? 

7 hours ago, Lady Elanore said:

Are you still reviewing, Rob? I don't see your links any more, or am I looking in the wrong place? 

 

I keep forgetting to post my reviews on my Brisky thread!

https://www.drivelife.co.nz/author/robclubley/

 

 

Blimey, you have forgotten a fair few there, I think! 

Well this wasn't much fun to do!
Ran the car until it was flashing E on the fuel gauge then did another couple of trips to the shops. Started by pumping out 5l with a hand pump, helped by my assistant. Then I loosened the pipe to the fuel filter and slowly drained the other 7 litres!
The tank is pretty corroded inside as is the fuel sender. 
It's hard to tell if the tank has had a large breather removed or is a different tank. It has an internal pipe at the top but I can't see where that goes.
Sticker says. 857 201 075 M
My parts diagrams have 857 201 075 Q

My tank matches one of the diagrams, though I'm missing the gravity valve. Maybe that internal pipe is a breather that's blocked?
 

 

Reading this...
https://forums.quattroworld.com/4000/msgs/68637.phtml
I don't think my gauze filter is blocked, assuming it's in there, because fuel flows out fast when I disconnect the pipe to the pump.

Need to watch out if I re-coat the tank inside though.

Dropped tank at The Surgery for some surgery
https://www.thesurgery.co.nz/

Plan is to cut a hole, remove gauze filter, treat rust and coat the inside, weld a breather elbow on the cut-out piece then repair. Another elbow on the filler and connect with fuel hose. Also there's a small leak in the weld connecting filler to tank which was covered by black silicone !!

Looks like the filler neck isn't original to that tank. I suspect it has been repaired and they've blocked or cut the internal filler vent.

In the meantime, bit of cleanup. The remaining stuff is old rust protection I don't want to scrape off. I also found a seatbelt bolt wedged in the corner!

 

And some new hoses that actually bend, for the fuel return and breather connection.

 

Some fun has been had with the tank. Firstly the filling issue. It definitely has an internal  return pipe for air. Fuel goes in through the flap, air out by the pipe above.
The square holes at the top should let air out, round hole for fuel in.
Turns out the rubber flap has gone hard and no longer moves, stopping fuel getting into the tank.

 

 

Next the bottom of the tank - the plastic end of the fuel return - which looks nothing like the parts diagrams I have - snapped off as soon as it was touched so that went in the bin. Next job was to cut the bottom and get to that old gauze filter to remove it.

 

 

Impressive in-tank photography there Rob 

 

Very interesting to see what's gone on.

 

Gaz

1 hour ago, Gaz said:

Impressive in-tank photography there Rob 

 

Very interesting to see what's gone on.

 

Gaz

 

Agree - amazing what you can see and how it clarifies your understanding of how the whole thing works (or was supposed to!)

I can't claim credit for the photos they were done by John at The Surgery who are doing the work.

 

Couple of little jobs done. Fixed the check lights and brakes warnings, and fitted a new heater fan. It made an annoying ticking noise on the middle setting.

 

 

One day you will receive an OBE or similar for your efforts  

Owner Braving Electrics badge?

Original Beyond Economicrepair 

It's back and looks great!
Just need time to work on it.

 

 

More photos from @The Surgery showing what was done - cut a hole, cut out the bottom to get to and remove the gauze filter. Clean, degrease and coat the inside with POR15 products, weld up holes, re-paint. Also they repaired a cracked weld on the filler neck where it joins to the tank.

 

 

Hi Rob, how do you seal those welds - Will that POR 15 sealant do all that?

Edited 15 July, 20223 yr by Warrior193
extra comment

should do. They coated the tank after completing the welding.

The offending fuel blocker flap and gauze filter.

Gave the bottom of the tank a quick spruce up with wire brush,rust converter and paint just to slow down any surface rust growth in future.

 

 

So that doesn't require a certification then?

Looks like a good job 👍

 

On the blower motor, I spy pine needles on the heater matrix. If so they used to kill blower motors, but mainly because they managed to get in and wrap themselves around the bearings or just stuck in a weird place. The motor might well be servicable if you're lucky and with a little cleaning or possibly disasembly you could have it back on your spares shelf

6 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:

So that doesn't require a certification then?

Looks like a good job 👍

 

On the blower motor, I spy pine needles on the heater matrix. If so they used to kill blower motors, but mainly because they managed to get in and wrap themselves around the bearings or just stuck in a weird place. The motor might well be servicable if you're lucky and with a little cleaning or possibly disasembly you could have it back on your spares shelf

 

Apparently it doesn't need a cert. Neither would a replacement tank.

But changing wheel sizes technically does, for example. It's all a bit hard to fathom.

 

 The old motor does work, but made an annoying ticking noise on setting 2. And replacements turned out to be available and cheap. I will hold onto the old one just in case.

 

It’s in! Haven't put fuel in yet. Filler neck isn't sitting right, must have moved during welding. Will do some adjusting.
 

 

50L in, gauge says E. It did say 9 for a while and was counting down as I drove which was a concern. No leaks just dodgy gauge so I might be looking for one if I can’t fix it. Will pull it out and investigate.
When it had sat level for a while it read 38l which went down to 20 when driving and settled about 34. 

Some longer bolts and washers got the filler neck sitting right.